Moved this to a new post...
I'll assume your movies and games are copies of commercially-available content. In other words, it's not a "movie" of you and grandma at a birthday party 10 years ago, but something you can rent or buy at the store.
Retail content is easy to replace. Ideally (legally), you're just making a "working copy" of your disc, and can always re-copy the archived original. Or if needed, you can always buy another one in stores. (Of course, some things do go out of print, and do get rare/expensive.)
For a task like that -- basic retail backups -- you can use non-archival media.
2nd Class media is also referred to as "duplication grade" media. And then the
3rd Class media is yours fakes and other unreliable discs.
Just understand that you'll be throwing some of the discs in the trash. The burns will fail. On the off chance the burn completes, realize the disc data may be bad on the disc. You really have to test and check each disc, when not using archival media.
Even 3rd Class discs have a "success rate" for single-layer DVD+R and DVD-R. Some of the discs will burn okay, although it can vary from experience to experience. On average, at least half the discs turn out bad -- in other words, the discs are double-priced, after you account for the lost ones.
Given that fact, you might as well go ahead and pay double the price for the better discs out there.
I don't believe that
MR470 is the media ID -- that's just the inventory code used by stores, a disc model number. Historically,
Media Range discs are mostly fake -- they use discs with a "borrowed" (or fake) media code. I would NOT use a fake DVD+R DL at all, it will most certainly fail. A single-layer disc is a gamble, it may or may not burn.
Prodye is fake discs, too.
Authentic RICOH DVD+R DL media is already unreliable, and the fake stuff tends to be entirely unreadable on the second layer.