AVT-8710 TBC specs?

[lordsmurf]

continued from PM...

I just called TVOne and talked to a salesman (bad idea). He tells me the 1T-TBC is overall better (proformance wise) than the AVT-8710.
It has continuously variable adjustments (eg.: a volumne control) vs 'stepped' adjustments (eg.: bass & treble controls for a car radio) with the 8710. He also says it has better freq. response than the 1T-TBC and can lock to lower quality signals. I asked him about the freq. response and S/N ratio of the 8710 and how many steps and db change each press of a button when using the Proc Amp controls. he had no idea (no surprise). he offered to pass me over to someone in technical.

I repeated the questions, but didn't really get any answers. There are published specs for the 1T-TBC, but none for the AVT-8710 other than size, weight and ins and outs. He then talked to someone else and admitted both have the same circuit board.

My questions are;
1. Can the plastic case of the 8710 be opened (screws), or is it glued?,
2. Has anyone opened it and took pictures?,
3. How many 'steps' plus and minus from center for each proc amp control? (that might need a scope to be sure unless you have a good eye).

I run into this problem more and more as time goes on. Companies swear their products are "better" than the competition, but the fact is that these these days many items are simply re-branded/re-badged items made by some no-name Asian supplier. And so are the competitor's products -- often from the EXACT SAME suppplier! In some cases, the salesmen aren't even aware of this fact -- it's not on their scripts.

The AVT-8710 is not glued, and it can be unscrewed. I've done this for you, and here are the images:







The last image, the one with the close-up of the board, is available in a higher resolution. Download the RAR file attached to this post, and the high res JPEG is inside. You can clearly read all of the numbers and parts on the board.

As far as the steps go, it's very minimal. I don't have the desire to test it with a scope, nor the available spare time -- it's honestly a really weak proc amp at best.

The adjustments step up, but it's very slight at each press of the button. I would imagine anything that is button-driven would have to step in a preset amount.

After several presses of the button, it stops responding, apparently having hit the maximum range of what it's allowed to adjust. I don't remember how many times it is, or if it's the same on all options (Tint, Sharpness, etc). If I recall correctly, it was about 10-15 button presses before it stopped responding.

A dedicated proc amp, even one of the older and less-expensive ($50-100 range) Vidicraft units, works far better. Processing in software would also yield a higher adjustment level.

B&H has the best price on buying new AVT-8710 units: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...3167/KBID/4166


NOTE: You must be logged in to see the images or download the attachments.

[videobruce]

I'm unable to view any of the pics. You say it's a "very weak proc amp at best". Are you referring to a small adjustment range as in not much latitude?

[admin]

Yes, the range is limited.

[videobruce]

Amazing what can be stuffed in a few chips. I bet that board costs $20 or $30 to manufacture in China. It wouldn't be much to get rid of that cheap plastic box,install that board it in a metal project enclosure along with the control board and 'brick' power supply with a power switch.

For $200, one would think that would be the way it we be sold in the first place.

[videobruce]

I can see why it gets hot. No heat sinks on the regulator or any of the 'flat packs'.

[lordsmurf]

Hmmm.... I think (if nothing else!) that there is enough room inside this cheap plastic enclosure to add some RAM heatsinks. I did something similar to this on my LiteOn DVD recorder some many years ago, as it had no heatsink on the LSI Logic encoder chipset. I sawed a RMA heatsink in half, and then sanded and polished it smooth and clean. Using some heatsink tape, I affixed the customized/modded heatsink to the LSI, and it lowered the temp significantly. I did it on some other chips, too.

That alone may be helpful.

For an on/off switch, I've long resorted to unplugging the power cord from the unit itself (not the wall). I could use a surge/power strip, or make my own on/off toggle with a few cheap parts from Home Depot or Lowe's home improvement stores. It's never been a big an issue. Yes, for $200, I have to agree, it should have come with one!

I've also re-saved re-attached the last image, as requested. It is saved as a JPEG Medium in Photoshop CS3, it should not be an HTML image. I see those sometimes, too -- not sure what causes it.

[videobruce]

Thanks for correcting the larger photo.
Have you or anyone measured the frequency response? How transparent is this?
If you don't have a signal generator, you could use test patterns off of a DVD.

[admin]

I've not tested, but might try in the near future. Now you've got me curious as well.