Problems with shipped VCR JVC SR-VS20U, how to fix?

confusedperson · #1 11-06-2018, 04:18 AM

Lord Smurf told me to continue the conversation we were having in PM on the regular forums, so images could be attached. Long story short is that I bought a VCR from him, it just came, and the shipping process has banged it up a bit even though it was well-padded.

I wrote:

The door flap (that says Super VHS ET on it) seems to have come off. Was it like that when you shipped it or did that happen during shipping? How do I get it back on?

There is tape horizontally across the front panel bonding it to the cover shell. Is it holding the VCR together or should I remove it?

It would seem the tape would get in the way if I were trying to remove the shell to perform that adjustment we talked about. Is it supposed to stay on when removing the shell and if so, how? I should also ask EXACTLY how you do this procedure so I don't screw something up.

It is good that you sent the remote as none of the front buttons work except for Eject.

lordsmurf · #2 11-06-2018, 04:21 AM

The tape was for shipping, to secure it better. You can remove.

Those tapes flaps can be a PITA. I actually had super glued a piece of plastic toothpick in there to secure it better. The tape flap has pegs on each end, and the middle hits a plastic jut. You push in the left (looking from front of unit) tab first, exert slight pressure against the jut, then set the right tab. You should be able to do it without bending the flap, though it will at first seem not to be possible. The flap is slightly shorter than the area between tabs, and is why the jut is there, so it doesn't fall out. But you jostle a VCR in transit, it can fall out. There is also a spring, and you must make sure the spring is laid against the bezel and flap, so it opens and closes. And finally, there is the a piece that fits between the transport lift, which is how it moves "by itself" on tape ingest/eject.

All of the front buttons should work. I tested that. The power button was extra stubborn on that unit, and a few others are stubborn on all units (model design flaw), but it was functional. Does the front display work? If not, it may be a simple issue of the ribbon got unplugged from the bottom on the front bezel. There's really no way to tape it.

This is why I try to pack decks tight, as you saw, and in layers of bubbles. But nothing can protect from being tossed, dropped -- like the warning stickers say NOT to do.

confusedperson · #3 11-06-2018, 04:28 AM

I can't get the flap back in; what am I looking for? There doesn't seem to be a "hold" for these tabs. And putting the left one in first is impossible; the right tab juts out WAY more than the left. What am I supposed to do with the spring? There's a little wire at the top that sticks out; is that supposed to bend into the VCR?

Also, I have worse problems now.

The front buttons feel mushy and unresponsive. There IS a display, but none of the buttons work. You said they would work with enough coaxing, so I pushed the "Stop" button in as far as I could. Nothing happened and now it's stuck; how do I get it unstuck?

vcrhelp5.jpg

When I unscrewed the cover to inspect it, the front area felt pretty darn loose to me. There's definitely something wrong there. What do I do?

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vcrhelp2.jpg

I still don't understand how I'm supposed to use the tool thing to adjust the tracking. There are so many pegs inside; where is the right one? My best guess is the peg with the cross shape on top by the heads, but there are two of them! Which one is the right one?

(See Pic 1)

Also, uh, a part fell out when I took the cover off. I have no idea where it goes. Is it important?

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And now the conversation continues....

lordsmurf · #4 11-06-2018, 04:37 AM

Your pic1/2/3/4/5 text doesn't line up to attachments 1/2/4/5/6.

confusedperson · #5 11-06-2018, 01:53 PM

I thought the photos wouldn't be displaying their names. When I said things like "photo 1" I meant the first photo on the list, etc.

I'm not allowed to edit the post so.....

Pic 4 is vcrhelp5
Pics 2 & 3 are vcrhelp2 and vcrhelp4
Pic 5 is vcrhelp6

Quasipal · #6 11-06-2018, 03:45 PM

Not to interfere, but that loose part is a snap clip which is likely one of the lugs from the front panel broken off.

In my experience, once a VCR gets enough of an impact to snap bits off, it is never going to be right. If its damaged from transit, then may be worth starting a claim against the shipping company. I have lost a couple of high end VCR's to shipping impacts and was successful both times with my claims. Plus one of the VCR's was salvageable with a new PSU.

confusedperson · #7 11-06-2018, 10:50 PM

One more issue, related to the previous one: It turns out to manually adjust the tracking on a tape I have to hit Channel + and - simultaneously on the front panel, which doesn't currently work. If I can't get it to work, there will be a lot of tapes I can't play.

Quasipal · #8 11-07-2018, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by confusedperson

One more issue, related to the previous one: It turns out to manually adjust the tracking on a tape I have to hit Channel + and - simultaneously on the front panel, which doesn't currently work. If I can't get it to work, there will be a lot of tapes I can't play.

If the front has been impacted then you can have a button permanently pressed in which locks the others out or a PCB may have cracked.

confusedperson · #9 11-07-2018, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quasipal

If the front has been impacted then you can have a button permanently pressed in which locks the others out or a PCB may have cracked.

It's not this, because none of the buttons worked before one got stuck -- also, the machine is not in a perpetual state of Stop. Like i said earlier, all the buttons are mushy-feeling and there is no sensation that they're touching anything. It feels like a physical problem, not an electrical one.

I can say that from my end, I'm going absolutely crazy from the fear I just spent several hundred dollars on nothing. I check this thread every single hour for an answer, no exaggeration. It's the uncertainty that tortures me most of all.

Quasipal · #10 11-07-2018, 03:34 PM

If the buttons are mushy, it means that the PCB behind has come detached and so the buttons are not reaching the tact switches. The deck is likely damaged but someone with an understanding needs to assess it. What with the switches and the tape flap, there may be other issues to resolve too.

lordsmurf · #11 11-07-2018, 03:45 PM

Words alone won't work. What I'll have to do is dismantle a VCR, take photos, and show you images of what it should look like. I don't have the exact model available for this, and I'll be using a JVC SR-V101US for disassemble/reassembly. It varies some, but not by much.

You must go slow at all times!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by confusedperson

Pic 4 is vcrhelp5
Pics 2 & 3 are vcrhelp2 and vcrhelp4
Pic 5 is vcrhelp6

So does "vcrhelp1" = pic1?

Quote:

Originally Posted by confusedperson

I can't get the flap back in; what am I looking for? There doesn't seem to be a "hold" for these tabs. And putting the left one in first is impossible; the right tab juts out WAY more than the left. What am I supposed to do with the spring? There's a little wire at the top that sticks out; is that supposed to bend into the VCR?

Future reply with photos.

Quote:

The front buttons feel mushy and unresponsive.

They're always mushy. It's how these are designed. The "button" isn't actually a button. The board has a button, but the exterior thing you press is made-to-bent plastic. That's how most JVCs are, how most VCRs are period, how most electronics are. I hate my alarm clock, mushy buttons, same thing.

The unresponsive is likely has something to do with board position behind the bezel and "buttons". And will get that....

Quote:

There IS a display, but none of the buttons work.

Having a display is good. The front board is working.

Quote:

You said they would work with enough coaxing, so I pushed the "Stop" button in as far as I could. Nothing happened and now it's stuck; how do I get it unstuck?

You pushed too hard. But again, the "button" isn't a button. You got the plastic stuck somehow. While it is possible that you damaged the board, it's not likely, especially if you didn't hear a nasty cracking sounds. You must remember to be gentle with electronics at all times. Sometimes firm -- but still gentle. Never force anything. Firm isn't force.

Quote:

When I unscrewed the cover to inspect it, the front area felt pretty darn loose to me. There's definitely something wrong there. What do I do?

JVC was too reliant on plastic clips. Worse than that, often times, the clips don't seat properly. What you see in the image is unseated clips, nothing more. Over-jostling (abuse!) of the unit can easily knock these loose, sometimes even breaking them. As I've written about in some recent threads, I'm still attempting to upgrade my Mac, and seating plastic things can be a PITA. So it's not just JVC, or VCRs.

What you must do is remove the entire front panel/bezel. The panel is attached in several ways. There's a grounding screw with a wire in the upper top corner. Then the tape area has a metal plate screwed down over the plastic clips. When those are removed, there are 3 plastic clips on bottom, some on each side, and several on top. Be careful. Get a flathead screwdriver to assist. The plastic is resin-like, and breaks easier than most. Using plastic clips was bad enough, but the real design flaw by JVC was all the rigid resin-like clips. Of course, most people never notice that, are never affected, except when having to repair the unit.

In the top-down image, I see the plastic clip is the middle is crooked. It's broken. Super-glue fixed that.

USPS really did a number on that package.

Quote:

I still don't understand how I'm supposed to use the tool thing to adjust the tracking. There are so many pegs inside; where is the right one? My best guess is the peg with the cross shape on top by the heads, but there are two of them! Which one is the right one?

Do not start randomly turning things. The intention was never to leave you to your own devices, but to carefully instruct you on proper tuning for problem EP tapes. Let's table that until everything else is working properly.

Quote:

Also, uh, a part fell out when I took the cover off. I have no idea where it goes. Is it important?

It's just a clip to hold down the front panel. This is easily fixed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quasipal

Not to interfere, but that loose part is a snap clip which is likely one of the lugs from the front panel broken off.

Correct.

Quote:

In my experience, once a VCR gets enough of an impact to snap bits off, it is never going to be right.

I don't agree at all. I'm actually surprised you think that, since you're such a wealth of information on VCR repair.

I've repaired some JVCs that look as if they had been thrown against a brick wall.

Quote:

If its damaged from transit, then may be worth starting a claim against the shipping company. I have lost a couple of high end VCR's to shipping impacts and was successful both times with my claims.

This is easy to say, but it's not always that easy. Insurance is mostly for loss or catastrophic package damage. Read the policies carefully, as they've given themselves many ways to slither out of obligations, even when caused by bonehead postal/shipping workers. When the package is still visually fine, you have an uphill battle to file a claim, and it can take months.

Repair is always preferable, especially when it's minor damage.

Quote:

Plus one of the VCR's was salvageable with a new PSU.

The problem here is that filing a claim, if you actually succeed, almost always requires you to return the defective item. Where it goes from there, nobody can say for sure. Some end up on auctions (offline or online), while others are just recycled or trashed. Every time a repairable S-VHS VCR is lost, prices go up for units that survive. Even broken units would have been good for parts, which are equally getting scarcer by the year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by confusedperson

One more issue, related to the previous one: It turns out to manually adjust the tracking on a tape I have to hit Channel + and - simultaneously on the front panel, which doesn't currently work. If I can't get it to work, there will be a lot of tapes I can't play.

In addition to +/- channel, on many models, you can also hit SP/EP on the remote, and then use the up/down direction pad. I don't recall off-hand if this model complies.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quasipal

If the front has been impacted then you can have a button permanently pressed in which locks the others out or a PCB may have cracked.

With the way I pack gear, frontal impacts are not likely. I'd go so far as to claim impossible, without the front of the box being caved in. The key is firmly packing multiple layers of large bubble wrap around the unit, followed by specific peanuts that offer give. Which is what I do, what I use. Extremely abuse of the package can result in very minor movement within that wrap, which is why/how plastic tabs were broken. But the front PCBs will have been too tightly packed to allow for it. Remember, the PCBs are inside in front panel and screwed down as well. Those don't break easy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quasipal

If the buttons are mushy, it means that the PCB behind has come detached and so the buttons are not reaching the tact switches. The deck is likely damaged but someone with an understanding needs to assess it. What with the switches and the tape flap, there may be other issues to resolve too.

Yes, the front buttons are definitely a PCB contact issue, but it's likely not an issue with the board. The issue is contact. Either a screw came out, a screw joint broken, or the panel just is not seated properly.

The tape flap is cosmetic. You can entirely leave it off, and the VCR will function perfectly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by confusedperson

I can say that from my end, I'm going absolutely crazy from the fear I just spent several hundred dollars on nothing. I check this thread every single hour for an answer, no exaggeration. It's the uncertainty that tortures me most of all.

Don't you worry until I do.

And when I'm at the site, I'm giving this thread my attention before all others. But I'm having fatigue issues in recent days, so I'm slower than normal right now.

I'd like to find the USPS moron(s?) that abused your box. Some SOB made more work for us both.

confusedperson · #12 11-07-2018, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordsmurf

So does "vcrhelp1" = pic1?

Yes, it does.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordsmurf

In addition to +/- channel, on many models, you can also hit SP/EP on the remote, and then use the up/down direction pad. I don't recall off-hand if this model complies.

I just tried it; it didn't seem to work. It's not mentioned in the manual either (which is online).

-- merged --

So....it's my understanding I'm not supposed to do anything until I get the pictures at least. Do you know when that will be?

lordsmurf · #13 12-03-2018, 08:00 PM

Okay, so here are some image that should help you...

Read all of this before taking it apart, it's not entirely step-by-step, just mostly...

Unscrew the lid, which is hopefully obvious. There are screws on the side and around back. This is the easiest part. No photos needed for this step.

The next step is to remove the screws holding down the metal strap at the front of the transport. A screw is on either side. This will now allow you to pull back the tabs, and remove the front faceplate.

top-screw.jpg

You were concerned about the tabs, both that some were loose, and that one broke off. Understand that JVC tabs are rarely 100% snug, and can stress over time. It's not exactly the best design, but it was obviously a cost-effective (aka cheap) design for JVC. Less screws, more screwy plastic tabs. The attached image shows how my SR-V101 is not tight against the deck, it's loose, note the shadow under it.

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bottom-wide.jpg

Your deck just needs to have the problem tab glued back with superglue. Tabs run across the top, bottom, and sides of the front of the deck, and is how the front faceplate attaches. Do the best you can with the others.

After the plate is removed, you'll notice it's attached by 1-3 ribbons, depending on JVC deck model. I believe yours has 2. Slowly scott those out from the connection port, selecting whichever side of the ribbon will be easier to replace when you reverse this step to reassemble the deck. Photo:

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Now that you have the plate completely off, no ribbons or tabs holding it in place, lay it front-down on a towel or something that won't scratch the front. You'll see screws holding the circuit board to this plastic front plate. Unscrew them.

Those buttons on the front of the unit are pieces of plastic that actually hit buttons on the circuit board. But in order for it to function properly, the board must be firm against those buttons. What has likely happened is that shipping cause some of the plastic screw holes to bust, and those must simply be re-superglued. That's why your not getting contact. The "stuck" button is likely just pushed in funny, and you should be able to see what's going on with it now that the front panel is dismantled.

Note that your exact unit actually has 3-4 separate circuit boards, not a single board. It doesn't complete matters, just makes it slightly more tedious.

No photos of that.

Moving on to the tape gate, as mentioned, there is a small "jut" of plastic in the very center holding it. When that plastic piece is present, you slight the gate into one end (I forget which side needs to be first), slightly bend the gate to fit into the other end and clear the jut, and then it seats. your unit had a damaged gate area, missing jut, so I superglued a piece of plastic toothpick in its place. It was perfect. I was able to slide the gate in without bending, then superglue it carefully into place. You'll just need to redo this. You can use wood toothpick if no plastic available. Photos:

bottom-close.jpg

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The gate also has a spring, and simply mirror what you see here:

top-ribbons.jpg

When the gate is fixed, and in place -- and you're ready to reattach the front faceplate -- you need to watch for the lift mechanism. The means by which the VCR opens the gate. The lifter slides under the piece of raised plastic by the gate spring. The easiest way to do this is to use your hand to keep the gate open while attaching the front plate.

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plate-wide.jpg

When you think you have it, test it out by gently pulling the lifter. Looking from the side, pull it slightly down and to the right. The front gate should open.

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plate-middlejut.jpg

And finally, the how-to on tracking...

Tracking is mostly adjusted by tweaking the tape guides. These photos were taken without a tape in the unit, but you'll need to it when a tape is inserted and playing.

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Notice the positions of the guides, and how I've numbered them. Guide #1 is almsot always the one you'll adjust, and #2 is rarely adjusted. Not never, just rarely.

You need to take a photo before adjusting anything. You do not want to forget what position it was in when you started. Since this was one of my former decks, understand it's been realigned for the best performance possible. Aligning decks can be difficult, so don't randomly start turning things without giving yourself a map back to that start position.

Only turn about 1/16th at a time. Tracking is sometimes cyclical, so watch the image for 30 seconds or so after turning. Both clockwise and counter-clockwise are allowed; some need one, some need the other.

Be careful not to slip, and hit the playing tape with the tool. That could be very bad!

plate-spring.jpg

This is not something suggested, but can be needed for bad tapes that simply refuse to track. That's because those tapes were made on a badly misaligned deck. So you must "break"/misalign your VCR to match it.

Convert all cooperative tapes first, and save the screwy misaligners for last.

Hopefully this all makes sense to you.

confusedperson · #14 12-06-2018, 01:13 AM

Thank you for answering at last. I'll get to this in the next few days and let you know if I have issues.

Regarding the tape guides: since they're symmetrical both vertically and horizontally, restoring their original position would be mostly guesswork even with photos. Is it OK to put a little dot on the top with a permanent marker, like in the top left position or so?

I also have a question about the D-VHS player we discussed earlier. I have a friend who says he knows how to replace capacitors cheaply, but he needs to know if the bad capacitors on this unit are on the power supply or somewhere else. He says the power supply would be a much easier job. Do the capacitors go bad there, or somewhere else?

-- merged --

OK, I made the repairs you suggested, and I'm pretty sure I made it worse. Now it won't turn on.

Or, rather, it turns on but it just shows some lights on the "DV" side. See picture. I thought maybe sticking a tape in there would jolt the VCR side to life, as that usually gets DVD/VHS combo machines working, but no dice here.

The good news is that I got the door reattached and functional, and half-fixed the Stop button (it is in its normal position now, but it is now stone -- you can't push it in at all).

The main injury was as you said: the circuit board connected to the front display was loose. I don't know what state it was in when you had it, but there were originally six pegs attached to the inside front and none were attached now. They were, however, attached to the board via (somewhat loose) screws. I couldn't tell if they were supposed to be like that. Also, I could not tighten the screws there -- the pegs seemed to be stuck to the screws.

I could see residue left over from where the pegs were all superglued last time. I put new glue into those six spots and placed the circuit board back in, then held it for about a minute. It didn't work; the board did not stick.

My main problem is I don't know how long it takes superglue to dry. I was afraid that if I didn't get it in within thirty seconds it would harden and wouldn't work. Putting the glue on the pegs would have taken too long, and I'd also risk getting glue on a circuit somewhere. Well anyway, it failed.

Then I noticed there was a peg still attached to the front end, that corresponded with a screw hole in the board. I took one of the screws that held that little mini-circuit board attached to the main one, and screwed in the main board to that peg. This seemed to keep the board firmly in position finally.

Play, Pause, Record, Insert, A. Dub and the Tracking + and - buttons now had tactile "clicky" feedback -- the rest was still mushy, but as long as Tracking worked and I had the remote, nothing else mattered. So I plugged it in, and got the result seen in the picture. (I should mention the "S-VHS" button is stone, like the Stop button is -- it won't push.)

So NOW am I without hope?

-- merged --

Decided to open it up for more pictures. Don't bother pointing out that one of those ribbons looks loose. I pushed it back in after noticing. Same result afterward -- same lights, no display, etc.

-- merged --

When I put it back together THIS time, the left front corner came completely off! I could only reassemble the unit with Scotch tape.

I'm afraid to take it apart a third time.

I don't know if you run into this situation very often, but....do you offer refunds? Or a replacement unit (you have three left)? If not, what am I supposed to do??

Or let me offer this.....if I shipped this horrible monster back to you, would you be willing to exchange it for a (well-packed) unit that does the same things yet works? Then you could have another machine to (hopefully) fix and sell.

lordsmurf · #15 12-06-2018, 07:31 AM

The DV light is on when the DV side is active. And the DV is bad, don't use it.
Press the S-VHS button, to switch mode.
Have you downloaded the user manual yet? Do that, read it. That would have covered switching modes, why the DV light is on. You need to get familiar with the deck, not just panic when you come across new and unfamiliar.

When I sent the unit, it was solid. Apparently the hamfisted USPS goons played football with the package, and overly jostled it, disregarding all the warning labels on the box. My packing jobs are quite good, heavy duty boxes, specific peanuts and bubbles, and other materials. But even the best packing job cannot withstand mishandling. (FYI: Had this been an eBay deck, as eBay sellers are notoriously horrible at shipping, I have no doubt it would have arrived entirely smashed to bits.)

Wait ... you put superglue ON THE BOARD?!! Never put a board near superglue, just the plastic posts. When those dry, put the board back. Otherwise you'll ruin the boards.

Not all superglue is made equal. Get the gel kind, easily found at Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot, even Dollar General and Family Dollar. Note that the "Automotive" superglue (black top) is identical to regular blue top. The gel takes about 15 second to "dry" enough to hold in place, but need a few hours to cure.

A few of the front buttons were always mushy, on all units. I forget offhand which those are, but it wasn't the important ones like channel +/- for manual tracking.

Have you tried to use the remote? You need to use a remote as much as possible, because all JVCs get button wear. The buttons are plastic, even on the boards. So the only button you should ever really use it for tracking adjustment (as needed, since you have EP tapes that may not always auto track), and that's pretty much it. Power, stop, play, FF/REW (which is best avoided too), menu for TBC/etc, those are all on the remote.

The VCR display is immaterial for the moment, all it shows is a clock/counter anyway. What you care about here is the deck's ability to play VHS, nothing else. Though if the display is gone, you probably just pulled out a ribbon, and I'm not sure what else that ribbon carries, like front panel button controls. But, for the moment, ignore it, move on.

Plug the VCR into a TV or capture card, and see if you can use the remote to get the menu screen to appear. Be sure NOT to confuse the VCR "not working" with the TV input or capture card not being setup correctly, so test it first with some other device, be it another VCR, a camera, or a media player box (Roku, WDTV, Kodi, etc).

If you want your EP tapes to track well, and have the ability to tweak alignment when the tapes were acting untrackable, this is/was the deck to do it, outside of buying an AG-1980 for about $800+ in recapped working order. So it is your best interests to keep working with it. I don't have another one of these specific units.

I'm still not convinced it's non-functional. It just has both a minor learning curve on your end, and some minor (mostly cosmetic) damage from bad shipping.

confusedperson · #16 12-06-2018, 01:14 PM

The SVHS button doesn't work; it doesn't push in. It's like trying to push in the JVC logo on the side; you can't do it, it's like a rock. And I'm afraid to force it in because of what happened with the Stop button last time (which is back in position but also does not push in anymore). Is there a way to switch to SVHS with the remote?

Downloading the manual was one of the first things I did when I got the VCR. There's nothing in it that can help me. There does appear to have been a "SVHS" button on the original remote, where "Skip Search" is now, but pushing it does nothing.

I tried plugging in the cables when it was in perma-DV mode. There is no signal.

I never said I got glue on the board. I put the glue where I could see there had been glue before, on the bottom of the unit. The posts are stuck to the screws on the board and cannot be removed; it was like this the moment I opened it, before any glue on my end was involved. You lift the board and all the posts come with it.

lordsmurf · #17 12-06-2018, 07:53 PM

The "button" on the front plate is simply a dummy for the actual SVHS button on the board.

You can do one of two things:

(1) Plug in the unit while the front boards are unscrewed from the plate. Simply be careful, handle these from the edges. Do it on a wooden table, not something plastic or metal. Certainly not the floor, carpet, etc.

(2) Open the front plate, remove the dummy button so you can access the true button with a plastic tool of some sort, after the boards/plate is re-seated. A pen without a tip will be fine.

The goal is to switch the mode. It had been in SVHS when sent, and doesn't reset to DV by default. You switched it at some point, and it should be easy to switch back.

confusedperson · #18 12-06-2018, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordsmurf

The "button" on the front plate is simply a dummy for the actual SVHS button on the board.

You can do one of two things:

(1) Plug in the unit while the front boards are unscrewed from the plate. Simply be careful, handle these from the edges. Do it on a wooden table, not something plastic or metal. Certainly not the floor, carpet, etc.

(2) Open the front plate, remove the dummy button so you can access the true button with a plastic tool of some sort, after the boards/plate is re-seated. A pen without a tip will be fine.

The goal is to switch the mode. It had been in SVHS when sent, and doesn't reset to DV by default. You switched it at some point, and it should be easy to switch back.

Option 1 sounds super dangerous. I think I'll go with Option 2.
In what way should I remove the dummy button? Does it have to come off on the inside or is there a way to pry it off on the outside? Is this a permanent alteration or would it snap back on?

lordsmurf · #19 12-06-2018, 08:29 PM

I don't remember, take some photos. Realize that I've repaired so many models of JVCs that they all tend to blur together. I mostly remember how each performs differently, and why, but not the little nuances of which deck has which exact parts. You can also refer to the service manual. I don't recall if this exact model manual is on the site or not.

Option 1 isn't really dangerous, but may require 2-4 hands.

confusedperson · #20 12-07-2018, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordsmurf

I don't remember, take some photos. Realize that I've repaired so many models of JVCs that they all tend to blur together. I mostly remember how each performs differently, and why, but not the little nuances of which deck has which exact parts. You can also refer to the service manual. I don't recall if this exact model manual is on the site or not.

Option 1 isn't really dangerous, but may require 2-4 hands.

OK, here are the photos. The big gray tab in picture #3 is the SVHS button. It's attached with...SOME kind of small bolts that I've never seen before. The other buttons are springy from the inside, but the SVHS button is not. I tried to wiggle and loosen it, but I didn't have much room to do so while keeping myself from touching the circuit board. It's pretty stiff.

But you see that little stain on the left side right next to it? That's the location where one of the pegs goes. And THAT is where some of the superglue was applied, by both me and you. I bet it leaked into the crack and made that button stick. What do you suggest now?