#1  
02-13-2020, 07:24 AM
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lordsmurf lordsmurf is offline
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I've not used this unit much in recent years, but it has been plugged in (and into a UPS) for most of the past decade+ since I bought it. I just don't record oodles of TV anymore, due to streaming and WDTV DLNA. Mostly holiday specials, TV marathons, select 16x9 baseball games.

I used it last summer, then went to turn it on late last year. No power on, nothing.

Thanks to jwillis + Mr. ISOBuster, I do at least have all my recordings now dumped. But that still leaves the unit non-working.

Yesterday, when opening it, I noticed a fuse. Ah-ha! 250V 2A fuse. I pulled it, and looks at it. It seems fine, seems intact, but perhaps it somehow went bad? I opened my supply box, and pulled out a replacement. Or so I thought. It's been years since I had to get a fuse for something.

I plugged in the new fuse, plugged the 3575 in, and (while I still had the cover open) saw a bright flash. The fuse is gone. I pulled it out, and noticed it was 250V 1A, not 2A. The other fuses in the 2A box are actually 1A and 1.6A fuses. I bought these over a decade ago, from Radio Shack, and must have consolidated all my fuses into the 2A box.

So here's my question:

Should I buy new 250V 2A fuses? ($7 + tax for pack from eBay or Amazon)
Or given that the old 250V 2A looked fine, does another issue seem likely, and new fuse is unlikely to be the simple fix?

There's no obvious leaky caps on the power board.

Please advise.

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  #2  
02-13-2020, 07:28 AM
hodgey hodgey is offline
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Did test the original fuse with a multimeter or similar?
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  #3  
02-13-2020, 10:22 AM
latreche34 latreche34 is offline
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I doubt a 1A fuse would just blow in the 1st power up, If it is under rated it will blow at the highest load like playing back a disc. Some capacitors do go bad and short out even when they are not leaking, I would get a service manual and start probing all voltage points.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/13...r3577h-05.html
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  #4  
02-16-2020, 04:18 PM
jwillis84 jwillis84 is offline
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I'd look on the power supply board for dark brown or scorch marks, or components very close to one another, almost touching.

Aside from the Capacitors "dead shorting" which they do do without bulging (really does happen) small resistors tend to carbonize when heated for a long time or when a capacitor goes bad and shorts. This leads to the resistor shorting or opening, either is bad.. it can prevent a divider from doing its job and overloading another part of the power supply with higher voltage.. ect.

I've had fuses that I thought were bad.. revive.. just by shaking them. You might try that with original fuse. It mostly depends if they are a coil of wire or a single high temperature rod with melt in the end caps.. they bend up and away from the melt like a crude relay switch when they are of this type.. shaking the coil or 'relay' type close the connection again.

I don't know why they initially bend up or away from the end caps such that they can be revived like this, except to think its a combination of the heating in the chassis with a brief start up surge or current while energizing the caps and the inductors in the power supply. Surges from exercising the DVD (aka 'Loader') and hard drive could also be responsible.. but again I'm no expert.. and only know shaking the fuse and putting it back into place actually works quite a bit.
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