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  #1  
07-29-2022, 07:51 PM
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Curious to see what others have done as far as modding their Datavideo TBC-1000's.

Wanted to share one I recently did.
Soldered input to VP-301 board
Soldered output to VP-301 board and placed adjacent to the input terminal on the front of the unit


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  #2  
07-31-2022, 03:40 PM
nicholasserra nicholasserra is offline
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Nice, looks great. Only thing i've done is with those cables you made me. Moved input and output to the back for potential rack mounting. Kinda wanna 3d scan and print new cases for these things so I can keep the original unmodded.


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  #3  
07-31-2022, 04:28 PM
latreche34 latreche34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholasserra View Post
Nice, looks great. Only thing i've done is with those cables you made me. Moved input and output to the back for potential rack mounting. Kinda wanna 3d scan and print new cases for these things so I can keep the original unmodded.
What do you guys keep the distribution amp for since the TBC-1000 does not process audio? Convenient audio routing? Is it a good idea to get rid of it and put the TBC inside a smaller case like the AVTtool? I can help with case design if I have the exact internal TBC PCB dimensions and connectors exact locations.
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07-31-2022, 04:31 PM
nicholasserra nicholasserra is offline
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According to Diopter there's some components of the power supply on the dist board and you'd need to do more work to remove it. Can be removed if needed. Just mostly not worth the extra work.
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07-31-2022, 08:55 PM
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You can remove the amp, but you lose some caps, a diode, and a voltage regulator needed to power the video board.

I've been recording the different revisions as I come across them. Essentially you need 5, 8, or 12v going to the video board depending on what transistors are on your unit. From what I've seen, the video board components only need 5v and 3.3v to work. I don't care to make a new board for myself but if somebody wanted it, I could do it, but it would definitely take some time.

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07-31-2022, 10:23 PM
latreche34 latreche34 is offline
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One of the members here already did the modification but kept the same metal case, He did a very good job. Something that I can do in less than an hour if I have the TBC-1000 assuming all components are ready.

https://www.youtube.com/@Capturing-Memories/videos
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  #7  
08-01-2022, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latreche34 View Post
Is it a good idea to get rid of it and put the TBC inside a smaller case like the AVTtool?
No. Heat is not your friend. The case quality (plastic) and design (tiny) is likely why most green AVT-8710s (and even many black AVT-8710s) have failed over the years, why so few are now left. I tried to heatsink mod AVT-8710s in the past, but it didn't make a huge difference with the plastic case trapping the heat. The unit design sucked. Not just due to heat, but lack of power button, etc. The 1T-TBC "clones" were a bit better design, as were BV units. But both were still small for greatest longevity.

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I can help with case design if I have the exact internal TBC PCB dimensions and connectors exact locations.
Internals differ, multiple TBC-1000 variants. I've considered created a new case, and probably will, but one thing at a time. It has to be a modular unit that allows for any of the card revisions. So all needs power boards (as needed), all I/O cabling options. Otherwise it'd never work. I may need to get with Diopter_Doctor, to help speed things along. But it's not a DIY kit, I/we'd have to buy a stock of at least 50 units (minimum order). To recoup costs, it won't be cheap, maybe $100. Odds of selling 50 for $100 is low (or rather slow, I have no doubt they'd sell eventually), hence why not high on my to-do list.

This is one of those things where big ideas aren't backed by dollars to make it happen. Sort of like Kickstarting a TBC. Not knowing what you don't know.

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Originally Posted by nicholasserra View Post
According to Diopter there's some components of the power supply on the dist board and you'd need to do more work to remove it. Can be removed if needed. Just mostly not worth the extra work.
You can't remove it. You have to create a new power board. Also noting the mini brown sub-board is crap in certain units, also needs replacing. Again, a modular design is required, to account for at least 5 iterations.

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Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
You can remove the amp, but you lose some caps, a diode, and a voltage regulator needed to power the video board.
I've been recording the different revisions as I come across them. Essentially you need 5, 8, or 12v going to the video board depending on what transistors are on your unit. From what I've seen, the video board components only need 5v and 3.3v to work. I don't care to make a new board for myself but if somebody wanted it, I could do it, but it would definitely take some time.
Time and funds.

So perhaps I don't need to get with you, you seem just as disinterested in this as I am.

I've actually looked as re-casing multiple TBCs, some far more complex than the TBC-1000. All are possible, none are financially feasible (ie, case costs more than TBC). That leaves us to make unattractive clumsy mods that function. But function is the name of game anyway, right? It's not like the boring boxes (aka TBCs) were wall pin-ups.

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Originally Posted by latreche34 View Post
One of the members here already did the modification but kept the same metal case, He did a very good job. Something that I can do in less than an hour if I have the TBC-1000 assuming all components are ready.
He did, but that only works for his variant. Others must differ.

When you see all their hardware insides, and their apparent corporate culture (aka losing docs), you start to realize it was a company that got lucky with a one-hit-wonder lineup of products. Everything else they made before, and since, has been lackluster to craptastic. Even with the TBCs, some had issues, some were just decent, and two were best in class (best made to date). But it could have easily gone the other way.

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  #8  
08-01-2022, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by latreche34 View Post
One of the members here already did the modification but kept the same metal case, He did a very good job. Something that I can do in less than an hour if I have the TBC-1000 assuming all components are ready.
A few reasons why this specific mod isn't for everyone.

1.) Those who are using consumer equipment will not have/need BNC. Those are more so for professional equipment that already have those connectors (even some professional equipment uses the standard 4-pin mini DIN connector).

2.) This unit uses the brown power board to output 5v, which is not in every revision of the TBC. So you can't just attach your PSU directly to the video board for those that don't have one.

3.) The back looks unpleasant. I know this doesn't affect function, but I personally like a clean look for my equipment. And now you have holes in the back of the unit for spiders and dust to get into. (Yes, this is mostly preference, I know.)

4.) This is not easily converted back for those who may want the amp later on (for whatever reason) or if it is ever owned by someone else who wants it. If you can get a bypass mod with the ability to easily convert back to original, I think that has its benefits.

Lordsmurf said it earlier, not all TBC-1000s are the same and there isn't a simple one-design-fits-all without some thought and testing put into it. At the very least you have to know how to solder, which not everyone who owns one of these does.

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  #9  
08-01-2022, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
1.) Those who are using consumer equipment will not have/need BNC. Those are more so for professional equipment that already have those connectors (even some professional equipment uses the standard 4-pin mini DIN connector).
It doesn't just end there. There are s-video to BNC wires and adapters, but the modern ones all suck. Quality cables haven't been made in a decade or two. What we have now is thin garbage from China. Even the brand name Extron is lacking in quality, and overpriced. So whatever advantage you think you gain with BNC is pissed away due to cheap Y/C>BNC cables.

Quote:
And now you have holes in the back of the unit for spiders and dust to get into.
On the flip side, it now has heat vents. The TBC-1000 wasn't ideal in design, and the main chip gets really hot. Fans add noise, buzzy junk. All you need is some venting. Heat is always my top concern, aside frrom image transparency/clarity. Heat has driven lots of my mods to date, and not just for TBCs. I don't like in Canada, heat (and humidity) is a major concern.

Quote:
for those who may want the amp later on (for whatever reason) or if it is ever owned by someone else who wants it.
To me, this isn't a valid reason whatsoever. The amp is usually crap, even when new and "working". Move on. Those who want an amp need to buy a quality amp. Not use the janky amp built in to the TBC. And that ignores the stupidity of including an amp in a TBC.

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At the very least you have to know how to solder, which not everyone who owns one of these does.
Or don't have the dexterity for it. I know how, but MS robbed me of the fine motions needed. It's not just "old people" that get stiffness in fingers and hands.

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  #10  
08-01-2022, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
On the flip side, it now has heat vents. The TBC-1000 wasn't ideal in design, and the main chip gets really hot. Fans add noise, buzzy junk. All you need is some venting. Heat is always my top concern, aside frrom image transparency/clarity. Heat has driven lots of my mods to date, and not just for TBCs. I don't like in Canada, heat (and humidity) is a major concern.
True. My unit usually sits by itself on a bench in an A/C'd room. For those who rack mount these, venting is not a bad idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
To me, this isn't a valid reason whatsoever. The amp is usually crap, even when new and "working". Move on. Those who want an amp need to buy a quality amp. Not use the janky amp built in to the TBC.
Interesting, so even when they were brand new you think the amp should have been bypassed?

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  #11  
08-02-2022, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
Interesting, so even when they were brand new you think the amp should have been bypassed?
At the time, I didn't think much about it. But in hindsight, and for the past 10 or so years, especially these past 2-3 years, it became evident that including a TBC in a distribution amp was stupid. It's the sort of device that was made for a problem almost nobody had.

Most distribution scenarios were to reproduce low-budget videos, such as school graduations, band competitions, etc. But since the TBC-1000 was a premium over the TBC-100, the TBC-100 could have easily been housed separate, VP-299 left alone, and for the same price. Or a package deal from DataVideo. Just chain as needed. The VP-299 alone was fine, the TBC-100 alone was fine, but the Frankenstein "chicken wire and duct tape" quality of the TBC-1000 sometimes introduced noise and problems. And those problems amplified with age. The TBC-1000 started out decent, but the manufacturing became sloppy and haphazard by EOL.

And distribution was a niche to the overall demographic of the unit, most of whom never used the distro amp aspect. Just the TBC, mostly for the then-new (late 90s, early 2000s) desire to transfer videotapes to DVD.

Whoever decided this was a good product was lazy. Seriously, hot glue a TBC-100 board into a VP-299, and call it a new product? WTF? No QC whatsoever.

In this era of large HDTVs, high sharp compression, etc, I'm less forgiving to errors. What was once hidden by small CRTs, smoothing compression, etc, is now obvious even to partially blind grandmas. So viewing got better, these TBCs aged badly, and it's just not a quality item as-is. It needs refurb, sometimes board-level component replacement, and maybe a bypass. And yet, there are still issues at times.

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  #12  
08-02-2022, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
In this era of large HDTVs, high sharp compression, etc, I'm less forgiving to errors. What was once hidden by small CRTs, smoothing compression, etc, is now obvious even to partially blind grandmas.
You're a hard man to please, my lord. My VHS videos look great on my whopper TV, better than in VLC Player on the 'puter.
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  #13  
08-02-2022, 04:45 AM
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You're a hard man to please, my lord. My VHS videos look great on my whopper TV, better than in VLC Player on the 'puter.
Not at all. And I don't think you're understand my statement.

The issue is devices that barf out noise. Those noises were hidden in the era of CRTs, smoothed-out DVD compression, etc. But this is literally 15-25 years later now, and (again) even half blind grandmas see the noises (and don't like it; "my vision already has enough problems, I don't need help making it look worse").

It's like somebody in the 80s realizing that 50s/60s items had problems that you were not aware of at the time. But now you are, now everybody is seeing it.

I value VHS, it is what it is.
But the TBC-1000 isn't what it should be, could have been, or should have been. It can be salvaged with modding and refurb, but stock TBC-1000 is now like Panasonic AG-1980, in that most units are having issues in the 2020s. Again, a device that is 15-25 years old now. It wasn't the best then (that honor goes to certain higher DataVideo TBCs), and certainly not now (due to aging factors).

Hence need for modding, refurb. Not just for "bad" units, but at this point, all units.

My videos also look great, at huge projection sizes. But that's a statement about my methods, my quality of work, not the TBCs being discussed here.

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  #14  
11-29-2022, 09:29 AM
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Repairing a unit modded by someone else. This one uses a perf board to replace the power side of the amp board. more pictures to come...


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  #15  
11-29-2022, 10:21 AM
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Don't be shy about mentioning names here.

This was a botched job by ccbradley at VH. I was not only wholly unimpressed by his crappy work, but I warned others in that thread (and PMs, and emails). Due to MS, I lost my ability to solder (loss of fine dexterity), not that I was ever great anyway. What ccbradley did looks worse than what I could do right now.

He wanted to "prove" his "quality of work" by modding a TBC-1000 that I had on-hand at the time. I declined. Good thing, too. He pulled that "send me" and "borrow" stuff with others, and they never got their items back. DD, I believe the same person who sent you that 1000 was one of the blokes that got his stuff stolen. (And ironically, I vaguely remember the unit I had on-hand at the time, the one ccbradley wanted me to send him, is the same unit that you/DD got from me!)

ccbradley was no expert in these, and bought a POS/DOA lot of bad TBC-1000s, which I firmly believe came from that 2019-20 dump we saw. But these didn't even turn on, so sold on eBay as "for parts" instead of the usual BS "working" (still not working) and "tested" (lit up when plugged in). CCB rushed through these without any consideration to shipping jostle, component aging. He made a quick buck ($K!) by flipping a few units, and he's gone now. I knew this would happen. He's been MIA for about 9 months now, and may never return. Several bad units are now out there, and have since failed (as the owners contacted me about it).

DD, I asked to be looped in on this conversation, since that TBC-1000 owner and I were talking first. But on-forum works best for me anyway, I want to see how bad ccbradley screwed this up, and what it will take to repair. I'm glad you're helping him, I just didn't have time.

My suggested is still to undo the BNC mod, restore s-video. I think the BNC mod is ill advised, especially given the sad state of quality BNC cables not being easily available anymore. Nor will it resell well.

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  #16  
11-29-2022, 09:39 PM
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Yeah, it's sad... multiple solder balls. He didn't pay any attention to detail and likely just tried to get it done asap. Also, designing and ordering a custom PCB what have been much nicer (and easier?) than this perfboard.


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File Type: jpg PANA3021.jpg (97.7 KB, 31 downloads)
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  #17  
11-30-2022, 07:52 AM
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Wow. No words.

Way back in high school, a buddy got really into soldering. He though it was neat. He was terrible at it. And yet I don't recall his work ever sucking that much. When I started soldering many years later, I always remembered him for what NOT to do! (BTW, last I knew, as we don't keep in contact as much anymore, he now has a lucrative high-end tech/repair job in the medical devices industry. So he did better!)

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  #18  
11-30-2022, 10:31 AM
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The key to a successful and clean good looking solder is the right temperature, Use a soldering station with temperature control, 650-750°F for small joints (modern electronics), 750-900°F for bigger joints (legacy PCB's), I personally recommend the Weller WESD51, You will never get disappointed with this, while soldering, it automatically adjusts the temp when it loses heat, For legacy electronics and through hole components I set it at around 830°F, I may go higher if there is a stubborn joint but don't recommend this practice, add new soldier to flow it better than going high heat.

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  #19  
12-20-2022, 07:23 PM
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I use PACE stations. I typically don't go over 700 degrees F unless it's a very large pad I'm soldering to. Desoldering is always a higher temp than my solder station, though.
https://www.tequipment.net/Pace/ST-5...ring-Stations/

-- merged --

Anyone know why ccbradley put a switch on his modded units? The one I'm currently working on seems not to change anything with the output, so I'm trying to figure out why it's even there and if it's even necessary.

Thanks in advance.

-- merged --

I figured out what the switch is for. When you plug the S-video (4 pin mini-din) into the terminal, the ground acts as a switch to use Y/C as the input. So if you're using BNC, one of your input grounds needs to go to that same via unless you put in a physical switch to manually change it yourself. This keeps you from having to remove your cables when you need to use composite. If you strictly use S-video only, the switch isn't necessary, just solder that specific circuit to ground internally.

Wired correctly, whenever the switch is off (open) the composite input is assumed. With the switch on (closed to ground) the input is changed to S-video. Both outputs work simultaneously regardless of which input is selected.

-- merged --

Finished repairing (and cleaning) ccbradley's mod. He obviously knows enough circuitry to design modifications, but his solder work (and attention to detail) was very poor.

All-in-all, I do like the BNC design for those who need that in their setup. I still prefer my 4 pin mini-din design for S-video, though.


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  #20  
12-20-2022, 07:48 PM
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All I'll add is to always be aware of transit shock, the connections must be secure enough, yet not overly taught, to withstand multiple shipping instances, rough shipping, airport baggage handling, etc. Not some delicate wimpy patch job that breaks when you sneeze, as was the case with the ccbradley work. It's when you add to much solder that things break.

While I would like to say he meant well, I really don't believe it to be the case. Just a quickie money grab, and gone. While some may think I'm being mean or negative here, you must understand that I've seen this before multiple times in past decades. I knew it right away in this instance, warned others, and it unfolded exactly as I predicted. Your BS sniffer gets honed in time, never dismiss folks that have existed in a field for most of their life (and in fact be dubious of newbies with claims).

You're doing a good job here DD, keep it up, I may even send something to you eventually.

While I do TBC-1000 refurb work, I'll probably refer certain units your way.

There's still a lot of things you don't know about these units, but you're at least starting to learn/understand/know what you don't know. That in itself is major progress, most don't know what they don't know. Once you see your own knowledge gaps, then it's matter on filling them.

I hope to see a thrilled update in my inbox, from the user you refurb'd that unit for.

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