Canopus ADVC-1000 power button acting up?

[mbassiouny]

Hi there,

I have 2 Canopus advc-1000 unused for a while. I can't find the original power adapter so I am using one of these generic universal adapters, adjusted to 12V and I am using a a tip/connector that fits (more or less).

Once plugged in, when I press the power button (and keep my finger pressing) the device remains on, once I remove my finger it turns off. Sometimes after few angry successive clicks it might remain on.

I wasn't the one using them before they don't know when/how exactly the problem appeared. The fact it happened to both devices makes me think it is a design flaw ( or I am a not smart enough to use a power button?). Putting a piece of tape the on the button, stops the button from pooping back and force the device to remain on.

Any idea what the hell is that or how to fix it?

Video of the issue https://streamable.com/x982sn
(same video in attachements)

[RobustReviews]

We have loads of these, and I've come across this before.

Firstly the PSU is shared with the Sony professional desktop players (DSR-11, DSR-20 etc) which are often cheaper and easier to get hold of than a Canopus boxed item.

This requires a non-standard barrel connector, hence your fit is probably poor and they draw about 2.5A at full chat so I'd be cautious about using a universal adaptor.

Power button sticking, take the front panel off and reallign it (it's only a couple of cross-head screws), often the switch catches on the aluminium front plate, or at least that's what I've found over the years.

[mbassiouny]

@RobustReviews

Thanks for the hint. Yes I found this info out, but didn't have to order one of these adapters yet. So I just wanted to test with what I had.

My adapter is rated 2A max. But it works... I don't plan on it being the primary adapter, just wanted to test.

Quote:

Power button sticking, take the front panel off and reallign it (it's only a couple of cross-head screws), often the switch catches on the aluminium front plate, or at least that's what I've found over the years.

I already took the front panel off before posting, but not much luck. I even took out the small metal front plate, but I don't know if there is a technique to "realign" it as you mentioned other than pushing/moving the button a bit...
Any hints?

Thanks for your help

[lordsmurf]

Sometimes slow power-on is a caps issue.
Sometimes in-PSU issue.

Universals are rarely recommended.

This advice applies to everything, not just this Canopus device.

[RobustReviews]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordsmurf

Sometimes slow power-on is a caps issue.
Sometimes in-PSU issue.

Universals are rarely recommended.

This advice applies to everything, not just this Canopus device.

Slow power-on, perfectly cromulent in relation to a capacitor issue on AC devices.

Unlikely (very) on DC devices like this unit, plenty of issues caused by wonky caps but slow power-on is unlikely, I've repaired to component level these Canopus units, I don't think this is cap issue. Just to add these are awkward units to disassemble, not difficult but there's about 3-and-a-half million screws and posts for each board and the reassembly sequence is one that'll catch you out as you think you've cracked it until the last moment.

The power buttons on these devices are a pain in 'arris, I've had plenty of wobbles with them over the years.

[mbassiouny]

LS, As I mentioned I know it is not recommended, but I lost the original one when I changed appartements (I did the mistake of not packing the devices with their chargers :faceplam: ) and I just wanted to check if they still work so I used the universal temporarily till I order a normal one. I can't find any compatible adapters selling in Europe, so I will have to order from US or China via ebay, and it will take some time to arrive...

Also, what I have is not "slow power-on", it is more of, the thing wants me to keep my finger on the button otherwise it returns to its initial position (off). It's like a light switch, that when pressed down, pushes itself up and turns the lights off again unless you keep pressing.

Also the caps seem ok (at least to my noob eyes).

The power button is just wobbly, it seemed to be a design flaw (imho), and the fact @RobustReviews has similar issues somehow confirms what I thought.


I don't think this might be the reason, but I will try both devices again with a different power adapter. (a normal one, not a universel) In case the issue persists, do you have any suggestions on how to play with it a bit to make the power button act nice ?

Thanks for your help

[RobustReviews]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbassiouny

LS, As I mentioned I know it is not recommended, but I lost the original one when I changed appartements (I did the mistake of not packing the devices with their chargers :faceplam: ) and I just wanted to check if they still work so I used the universal temporarily till I order a normal one. I can't find any compatible adapters selling in Europe, so I will have to order from US or China via ebay, and it will take some time to arrive...

Also, what I have is not "slow power-on", it is more of, the thing wants me to keep my finger on the button otherwise it returns to its initial position (off). It's like a light switch, that when pressed down, pushes itself up and turns the lights off again unless you keep pressing.

Also the caps seem ok (at least to my noob eyes).

The power button is just wobbly, it seemed to be a design flaw (imho), and the fact @RobustReviews has similar issues somehow confirms what I thought.


I don't think this might be the reason, but I will try both devices again with a different power adapter. (a normal one, not a universel) In case the issue persists, do you have any suggestions on how to play with it a bit to make the power button act nice ?

Thanks for your help

It's a bit difficult without seeing it, but yes I think the power-buttons are a weak point on these. They're fantastic units and I've found them the best at 'doing what they do' so it's not a criticism of the units in terms of picture quality but for what they cost (I'll have invoices somewhere in the archive) I've never been overlly impressed by Canopus items for build quality. We have 110s and 300s as well and they can be a bit 'near enough when it comes to component quality considering they were sold as professional items.

They do work very well though, the 100/110/300 are very good DV converters in my personal opinion.

If you're in the UK I do have some spares units so could probably send you a power-button for nix if you're here in Brexitstan?

[lordsmurf]

Canopus has weak/crappy buttons on most of their items.

You can't eyeball bad caps. Sometimes, but not always. Just the worst ones show bulge or leak, but others are merely out of value, and do appear "fine" visually. But not fine.

DV converters are 1990s tech, era of Pentium III computers, heavy compromises in quality made for space and CPU. Their usefulness ended with P4. Due to Apple being stubborn, DV workflows, the units persisted. Most Windows users ditched those ages ago.

Canopus was a marketing machines (not in a good way) and some of their info was BS. For example, "audio lock" is nonsense, used out of context, and didn't prevent audio drift whatsoever. But that didn't stop them from touting it as a "feature". For a time, B&H touted ADVC boxes as TBCs (or that DV boxes prevent the need for TBCs), utter nonsense, and Canopus wishy-washy "backed them up". But after I called them to the floor in public, tired of it, the TBC claims went away. See: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...s-canopus.html and VH (where they responded), and some other sites. That got their attention. I tried direct contact first, was ignored. I'm really not all that fond of B&H, there are far better/nicer places to get gear. Everything is used now anyway, they really have nothing for this video community.

4:1:1 NTSC is miserably, avoid.
4:2:0 PAL is passable, like DVD-Video, but still compressed colorspace on capture (not great)

[mbassiouny]

@lordsmurf, euh... I don't know why you felt like you wanted to go for this long post on Canopus devices here, but... euh... You do realize I know all of that, right? I mean I have been here long enough, and been in touch with you several times about capture card, etc so... I know that. But how is that relevant to my question? My question is about a bouton, whether the device is good or bad, it is not the topic here...

If you are replying to Robustreviews' comment, he only said "very good DV converters", not perfect good Capture Cards/devices overall.

Quote:

Canopus has weak/crappy buttons on most of their items.

Most of their common devices don't really have (a lot of) buttons anyway... like the 55, 110 or 100.

Quote:

If you're in the UK I do have some spares units so could probably send you a power-button for nix if you're here in Brexitstan?

Thanks a lot, that's generous for you to sacrifice some of your spare parts, but I think I will manage with manually forcing the buton, etc. I am not using it for anything serious. I appreciate the offer tho

[lordsmurf]

This site also has a lot of readers (lurkers), so added comments/context can help.
Canopus/DV background helps.

[dpalomaki]

The ADVC1000 manual states the max current draw is 1.2 amps at 12 VDC. (But I do not have one.)

I note that 12 VDC wall warts come with various size plugs that do not interchange.

IF the switch is binding on the chassis it might be easier to apply a small file to the chassis than trying to relocate the switch.

If the flaky switch is a push-push mechanical toggle switch that fails to latch in the ON position it may be necessary to replace the switch. I have seen a few of these fail on other gear and they often are not repairable.

If it is a momentary contact switch there may be an issue with the device's power supply that is not electronically latching.

[RobustReviews]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpalomaki

The ADVC1000 manual states the max current draw is 1.2 amps at 12 VDC. (But I do not have one.)

I note that 12 VDC wall warts come with various size plugs that do not interchange.

IF the switch is binding on the chassis it might be easier to apply a small file to the chassis than trying to relocate the switch.

If the flaky switch is a push-push mechanical toggle switch that fails to latch in the ON position it may be necessary to replace the switch. I have seen a few of these fail on other gear and they often are not repairable.

If it is a momentary contact switch there may be an issue with the device's power supply that is not electronically latching.

It's a latching switch, the switches are made by Alps so they're not especially flaky and similarly, I'm not sure what other Canopus equipment really has a lot of switches on it.

But in this application, I have had the latching power-switch fail, which is why this is highly unlikely to be related to capacitors - it's a mechanical issue.

I'm sure that's what the documentation said, as we're unlucky enough to have to do power surveys I have measured just about every single piece of equipment across by sites, these have been seen to draw around 2.5A under heavy load. Not continuously, and I can only go with my own measuring technique and equipment (although I'm a metrologist by profession, so y'know.... feel free )

[mbassiouny]

@LS, oh gotcha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpalomaki

If the flaky switch is a push-push mechanical toggle switch that fails to latch in the ON position it may be necessary to replace the switch. I have seen a few of these fail on other gear and they often are not repairable.

thanks for your input. Yup, that's the case, it is a mechanical one (not too dissimilar from advc-100 if you own one of them) that fails to remain on ON unless forced down by a finger press, or by putting some scotch tape.

[dpalomaki]

Was the 2.5 amps inrush when first powered on or steady state draw after it had been on for several seconds?

[RobustReviews]

It would not have been 'in-rush': please credit me with enough technical competence.

Without retaking measurement I could not tell you the precise state, however it would have been taken during processing and would have been instantaneous not steady.

I don't really want to get in to a very trivial point but if you're especially interested I can repeat the measurement over Christmas? Science of measurement is 'my bag' so to speak, even if I am a little rusty in the field.

[dpalomaki]

Thanks. Not to offend, but I have no idea of your technical qualifications/background, thus I was seeking clarification.

2.5 amps is more than 2x the manual figure of 1.2 amps. However, 2.5 is in line with what I would expect during start up as a short term surge given the current limiting source impedance of typical wall warts and response averaging of some meters.

[lordsmurf]

It's safe to say that many forum regulars are competent in power, to some degree, at least as it concerns the devices we all use regularly. So no need to offend, or be offended (or defensive).

[RobustReviews]

It's alright.

Usually, when I say I'm a metrologist I'm immediately asked for an opinion on climate change anyway...

[lordsmurf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobustReviews

It's alright.
Usually, when I say I'm a metrologist I'm immediately asked for an opinion on climate change anyway...

People with good vocabularies are too often met with stupidity. My favorite is still "niggardly", a word that I had to learn for the SAT test eons ago, long before any controversy existed. There's even a Wikipedia article dedicated to it. I remember the DMN snafu in the 90s, an entire column was dedicated to it, and I still have that tearsheet in my files. It has nothing to do with "that word", and the etymology traces to ancient Norse words.

Just don't tell them you're a niggardly metrologist. They won't think you're a cheapskate scientist, but instead a racist weatherman!

Words are hard.
See also: math is hard.

[cbehr91]

The ADVC-1000 is an SDI-DV cross converter with analog monitor out. It's not at all a Y/C-to-DV converter that is still a hot topic of argument all these years later. The 1000 was meant to convert Digital Betacam, etc. to DV or vise-versa. I use a 1000 for making copies of Panasonic DVCPro tapes where FireWire output was an afterthought on decks.