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  #121  
02-24-2019, 09:19 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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Originally Posted by dpalomaki View Post
Not really. That would depend on which you caps intend to replace and may also depend on whether or not your model uses the exact same boards and components as others. We know there were variations in the Y/C board over time for example, and not all caps need to be replaced. Other posts in this thread provide more information in that regard.

However, attached to this post is a spreadsheet that was based on the parts list in the back of an AG-1980 service manual. It lists the board, value, and Panasonic part number (from the 1990s). WARNING: it could well contain some transcription errors and/or omissions. It can provide a starting point for your quest. Some parts numbers have changed since then, especially the problematic SMDs, so you will need to select a substitute part that will electrically and mechanically fit the board..
Can you re-upload that file? Excel says it's corrupt and won't open. Thanks
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  #122  
02-24-2019, 09:23 PM
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It's not corrupt. Use OpenOffice or LibreOffice Calc to open it.
If you have an old Excel, then it may not understand the xlsx format.

Or maybe your download was just bad, get it again.

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  #123  
02-25-2019, 09:32 AM
digicube digicube is offline
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Anyone has a similar list of Panasonic DS-850? Is there a one-size fits all capacitors?
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  #124  
02-25-2019, 11:38 AM
dpalomaki dpalomaki is offline
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Quote:
Is there a one-size fits all capacitors?
No such thing as a one size fits all capacitor. They are specified by type/technology of construction (electrolytic, oil, ceramic, tantalum, mica, etc.) physical form factor (radial, axial surface mount, disc, etc.), max and working voltage, capacitance, tolerance, temperature range, ESR, leakage, etc. And their type is matched to the application. You will need to start with the Panasonic part number and work it out from there. Depending on its use in the circuit the exact value may be important to the circuit functioning, in other cases close may be good enough. But in general the working voltage and temperature ratings of a replacement should NOT be lower than the original.
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  #125  
02-25-2019, 04:44 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
It's not corrupt. Use OpenOffice or LibreOffice Calc to open it.
If you have an old Excel, then it may not understand the xlsx format.

Or maybe your download was just bad, get it again.
It was Office 365 that choked on it- Excel 2010 opened it fine though. Thanks
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  #126  
02-27-2019, 08:58 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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A question about the file listed above- There are about 32 part numbers that don't match anything on Mouser or Digi-key- I'm guessing they are obsolete. I'm also hoping that someone who has done the cap replacement for the 1980 has a list of replacements for these obsolete part numbers. Or direct me to where I can check them myself- I've looked all over and can't find a list of replacement panasonic capacitors.
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  #127  
02-28-2019, 09:24 AM
dpalomaki dpalomaki is offline
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Did you check Panasonic for a cross reference?
https://industrial.panasonic.com/ww/products/capacitors

If that fails, go by the capacitor rating (and check the physical size on the board)
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  #128  
02-28-2019, 04:24 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpalomaki View Post
Did you check Panasonic for a cross reference?
https://industrial.panasonic.com/ww/products/capacitors

If that fails, go by the capacitor rating (and check the physical size on the board)
Yep, checked there- no cross reference I can find. Searches bring up related things, but not a replacement, or even the original specs.

What I am doing now is looking through the parts list in the manual to find out the volts and farads of the unknowns, so at least I can match that. I'll post the file once I'm done, for future reference.
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  #129  
02-28-2019, 05:43 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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One thing I found that may be useful is that you can tell the voltage and uF from the part number. The voltage is determined by the first letter after the "A0" or "A1". A=10v, C=16v, E=25v, H=50v, J=6.3v. The uF are determined by the last 2-3 numbers. Decimals are designated with "R". A "0" on the end means the number is multipled by 1, a "1" on the end means the preceding number is multiplied by 10. So, 0.47uF="R47", 4.7uF= "4R7", 47uF="470", 470uF="471". So an example- "ECEA1CU471" is 16v 470uF.
I have no idea what all the other characters mean, but this helped me figure out the parts with no cross-reference to current ones.
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  #130  
02-28-2019, 07:40 PM
dpalomaki dpalomaki is offline
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The other letters will refer to other parameters such as type (construction, chemistry, tolerance, temperature rating, etc.).

Many of the numbers you cannot match may correspond to the bad SMD devices (I don't recall, it was nearly 5 years ago when I went through the drill) and that have been discontinued.
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  #131  
03-01-2019, 01:39 PM
drzapp drzapp is offline
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It appears the 4th letter is the one that denotes the package- all the through hole caps have an "A" in that position, all the SMDs have a "V". there are also "C", "1", "0", "U", "F", "X" but not sure what they mean yet.

Another addition is if the last number is "2" then it means multiply the preceding number by 100 for uF. So "ECEA0JU102" is 6.3v 1000uF
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The following users thank drzapp for this useful post: sevarre (05-20-2019)
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