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  #101  
05-06-2019, 12:37 PM
sevarre sevarre is offline
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Thanks dpalomaki! I appreciate your comment on my thread that helped solidify in my mind that I needed to do hardware work on the 1980P- that was very helpful and pointed me in the exact direction.

Here's a quick update with a pre recap screen capture and post recap screen capture. I uploaded some lossless compressed avi samples over at the following thread if anyone is interested (Basic VHS capture quality?).

PRE RECAP.png
^^Clear barber pole/diagonal rainbow issue due to bad caps on Y/C board

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^^No more barber pole/diagonal rainbow, but still some issues.


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  #102  
05-08-2019, 10:20 AM
RS456 RS456 is offline
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Congratulations.

My progress on that particular VCR I gave up on it. I took it apart and reconnected it several times making sure of the connections. The problem didn't go away. The video also suddenly became dark before it started spinning like a hard drive. I think something on the main board has gone bad. I don't really have time to decipher the main board and it is occupying too much space so I sold that off for parts. I still have 3 of those VCRs in working order which is more than enough. For the squeaky sounds baby oil does wonders rubbed on the old grease with a q-tip. It basically rejuvenates the old grease in the VCR. I did that in the problamatic one and the other sucessful one and all the squeaky sounds magically disappeared.

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Originally Posted by sevarre View Post
ALRIGHT!! Finished recap of Y/C board and timer board and things are looking GREAT! On power up, the LCD display turned on right away... was very happy to see that as the LCD was previously completely dead- so that is fixed. Also, I was getting awful barber pole diagonal color lines previously and now that seems to be pretty much be completely gone. There are still some issues it seems, but I will investigate those later (machine very squeaky and other more mechanical-y issues). Just feels awesome to see some actual results. I will upload some before/after samples either to this thread or to my initial thread that detailed my initial issue with diagonal rainbow color lines (barber pole).

RS456, you are correct that I didn’t need to use a hot air station. I ended up taking your advice and simply got an extremely fine tip for my iron and that seemed to do the job. I gotta admit my soldering skills are pretty crap, so we’ll see how long this “repair” actually lasts. Some of the SMD cap connections are pretty terrible.

Also taking apart the 1980P machine itself is pretty aggravating. Actually insanely aggravating. I finally got all the random connectors and FPC connector things plugged in to the correct spot, but it probably took nearly as long to do all of that correctly as it did to do the actual recap. Also I initially broke off what appears to be a ground connector from the main board to the chassis, but I was able to resolder pretty nicely.

For the actual recap I replaced all electrolytics on the Y/C board (besides the three caps on the small auxiliary chip labeled VEP03D52, I didn’t see it and had already ordered parts!) and all electrolytics on Timer board besides that awful one below the LCD (think it is labeled C03 for that board). All in all was about 14 hours for me from the absolute start to the absolute end. Was not fun, but was also not “brain surgery” as I have seen it over-dramatically referred to on the videohelp forums. Definitely more difficult than the 1974 Pioneer stereo receiver that served as my first recap project.

RS456, what is your current progress/status? Is the machine still spinning like a hard drive? Did you ensure all of those little connectors are made from the main board to the K mechanism assembly?
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  #103  
05-08-2019, 10:56 AM
RS456 RS456 is offline
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If you are curious here is the successful VCR sample.


Attached Files
File Type: mkv Colossus_20190408_2016-A-A-A.mkv (82.24 MB, 8 downloads)

Last edited by RS456; 05-08-2019 at 11:20 AM.
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  #104  
05-14-2019, 09:30 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevarre View Post
For the actual recap I replaced all electrolytics on the Y/C board (besides the three caps on the small auxiliary chip labeled VEP03D52, I didn’t see it and had already ordered parts!)
I'm looking into doing the same and your mouser cart links no longer work. For posterity, could you create a mouser project page that has a bill of materials for all the caps (or at least the ones you bought?).

https://www.mouser.com/Tools/ProjectCartSharing/

Alternatively, just a list or receipt or something would be enough. It's annoying for everyone to have to build this up themselves and potentially get it wrong. Congratulations on your success! I hope to match it.

Last edited by scanatee; 05-14-2019 at 10:28 PM.
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  #105  
05-14-2019, 10:33 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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I've started a project here to track what I'm going to order for this rehab:

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=8303e548ad
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  #106  
05-14-2019, 10:58 PM
sevarre sevarre is offline
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Yes, I can do that! I generally think it is a good exercise for someone doing repair to be able to refer to the schematic and try and figure out what components to get themselves (this device is recent enough that you can actually copy and paste most of the capacitors from the service manual in to mouser). There are a few oddities, though, and I would be happy to provide aid in any sort of repair project.

Rather than link to mouser, I will post exactly what I purchased for the Y/C board and Timer board.

**I will post them later tonight. (Sorry, I did not mean to actually post this reply yet!!, haha).**
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  #107  
05-14-2019, 11:02 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevarre View Post
Yes, I can do that! I generally think it is a good exercise for someone doing repair to be able to refer to the schematic and try and figure out what components to get themselves (this device is recent enough that you can actually copy and paste most of the capacitors from the service manual in to mouser). There are a few oddities, though, and I would be happy to provide aid in any sort of repair project.

Rather than link to mouser, I will post exactly what I purchased for the Y/C board and Timer board.

**I will post them later tonight. (Sorry, I did not mean to actually post this reply yet!!, haha).**
You are a saint.
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  #108  
05-15-2019, 04:51 AM
sevarre sevarre is offline
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Here are the aluminum electrolytic capacitors for the Y/C board and Timer board that I replaced.

Some brief notes: Y/C board has two divisions: Analog Y/C and Digital Y/C. The caps have reference numbers in the service manual that are coded as "Cyyxxx" where the "yy" is the board code and the "xxx" is the code of the capacitor within that board. So C33035 would correspond to the 35th capacitor on the board corresponding to 33. Note that both Y/C "divisions" are actually on the same physical board.

Timer board code is 65, so those caps have reference number C65xx.
Y/C Analog has code 30 (C30xxx).
Y/C Digital has code 33 (C33xxx).

The Y/C parts list can be found on the PARTS-8 and PARTS-9 pages of the service manual, near the end. The Timer board parts list is on PARTS-21 page.

I will list the caps with this format (SM is Service Manual):
<SM Reference #> | <SM Parts #> | <My Replacement (the Mfr.# via Mouser)> | <Brand of Replacement> | <SMD or Radial> | <Values>

**Y/C ANALOG CAPS**
C30005 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C30009 ECEA1HKA3R3 ECE-A1HKA3R3 Panasonic Radial 50V 3.3uF
C30010 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF
C30012 ECEA1CKA100 ECE-A1CKA100 Panasonic Radial 16V 10uF
C30014 ECEA1CKA100 ECE-A1CKA100 Panasonic Radial 16V 10uF
C30015 ECEV1EA4R7 EEE-1EA4R7SR Panasonic SMD 25V 4.7uF
C30020 ECEA1CKA100 ECE-A1CKA100 Panasonic Radial 16V 10uF
C30027 ECEV1HA010 EEE-HA1H1R0AR Panasonic SMD 50V 1uF
C30031 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C30033 ECEV1EA4R7 EEE-1EA4R7SR Panasonic SMD 25V 4.7uF
C30037 ECEA1HKAR22 UFG1HR22MDM1TD Nichicon Radial 50V 0.22uF
C30039 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C30055 ECEA0JKA470 ECE-A0JKA470 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 47uF
C30060 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C30062 ECEV1CA220 EEE-1CA220SR Panasonic SMD 16V 22uF
C30070 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF

**Y/C DIGITAL CAPS**
C33002 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33004 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33006 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33008 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C33010 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C33012 ECEA0JKA101 ECE-A0JKA101 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 100uF
C33016 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33017 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF
C33019 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33020 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF
C33022 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33027 ECEV1HA010 EEE-HA1H1R0AR Panasonic SMD 50V 1uF
C33029 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33030 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF
C33032 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33035 ECEV0JA470 EEE-0JA470SR Panasonic SMD 6.3V 47uF
C33036 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF
C33072 ECEV1CA100 EEE-1CA100SR Panasonic SMD 16V 10uF

**TIMER BOARD CAPS**
C6501 ECEA1HKA100 ECE-A1HKA100 Panasonic Radial 50V 10uF
C6503 ECEA0JKS330 ECE-A0JKS330B Panasonic Radial 6.3V 33uF
C6506 ECEA1EKS4R7 ECE-A1EKS4R7 Panasonic Radial 25V 4.7uF
C6507 ECEA1EKS4R7 ECE-A1EKS4R7 Panasonic Radial 25V 4.7uF
C6510 ECEA0JK221 ECE-A0JKA221B Panasonic Radial 6.3V 220uF
C6520 ECEA0JKS470 ECE-A0JKS470 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 47uF
C6522 ECEA0JKS470 ECE-A0JKS470 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 47uF
C6524 ECEA1CKA101 ECE-A1CKA101 Panasonic Radial 16V 100uF
C6526 ECA0JM221 ECA-0JM221 Panasonic Radial 6.3V 220uF
C6528 ECEA1VKA100 ECE-A1VKA100 Panasonic Radial 35V 10uF
C6528 ECEA1CKA220 ECE-A1CKA220B Panasonic Radial 16V 22uF

The only one I couldn't find a Panasonic cap for was C30037, so I got a Nichicon. Otherwise, the only caps that have names that aren't almost exactly the same are the SMD ones.

Also, note that I am a NOVICE, so there could be errors here!! I defer to other more experienced posters on this forum if there are any errors. These are the caps I got and replaced them and things are working out right now.

For the SMD soldering, I got a Weller ETS tip (long conical 0.015") for the Weller WES51D soldering station that I already had (uses PES51 iron). This worked out much better than I expected.

Also one last thing to note, there is a smaller board that attaches to the Y/C board that I missed recapping. It has three aluminum electrolytic caps on it and has board code 36 and labeled VEP03D52. I can't find it in the copy of the manual that I have- I think it is a newer revision or something. Maybe it is the Y/C sub video, but I haven't looked that closely for it in the manual.
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  #109  
05-15-2019, 05:58 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sevarre View Post
Also one last thing to note, there is a smaller board that attaches to the Y/C board that I missed recapping. It has three aluminum electrolytic caps on it and has board code 36 and labeled VEP03D52. I can't find it in the copy of the manual that I have- I think it is a newer revision or something. Maybe it is the Y/C sub video, but I haven't looked that closely for it in the manual.
These are listed here. They are as follows:
  • 47uF 6.3v
  • 47uF 6.3v
  • 22uF 6.3v
THANK YOU VERY MUCH sevarre!
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  #110  
05-15-2019, 09:38 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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For some background, here's what I'm trying to fix.

https://streamable.com/p3mb2

The video will usually play somewhat, but it's SUPER dark and has no color at all. When I pause I get static as shown near the end, then the static won't go away. Some tapes play as all static, but the sound works. The mechanism seems like it's in good shape and I cleaned the heads (they weren't even that dirty it turns out). I think this thing belonged to a school and didn't see a lot of use. Hopefully the recap gets me a nearly like-new machine! I paid $100 for it.

I'm going to try a local dude in Baltimore who probably has gear to tune up this VCR once it works. Ideally it'd be up to par with my TGrant 1980 I got recently - MAN IS THAT NICE! If I can't get anyone local do tune it up properly, I'll probably be asking for recommendations on gear to do it myself. I have a lot of equipment already like an o-scope, so AFAIK if I get the right function and sweep generators and follow the service manual I should be able to do it myself.
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  #111  
05-15-2019, 11:01 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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I created a spreadsheet here to make getting these components pulled up in mouser a little faster:

Google Sheets: Panasonic AG-1980P Capacitor Directory

I also added a bunch more components from these boards using the service manual. There's still a few unknowns, so maybe others replacing these components can contribute more to this. I'll be filling it as needed while undertaking this repair.
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  #112  
05-16-2019, 12:40 AM
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Please attach all files/images/videos to the forum, not external sites that may someday disappears (Google Docs, etc).

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  #113  
05-16-2019, 05:40 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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Please attach all files/images/videos to the forum, not external sites that may someday disappears (Google Docs, etc).
Can do. Here's the current incarnation of the doc (work in progress) as a PDF for posterity. Also I've attached the video of my VCR's current performance.


Attached Files
File Type: pdf Panasonic AG-1980P Capacitor Directory - Sheet1.pdf (63.2 KB, 5 downloads)
File Type: mp4 AG1980-DARK.mp4 (69.53 MB, 5 downloads)
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The following users thank scanatee for this useful post: bigkazzyry (05-16-2019)
  #114  
05-20-2019, 03:10 PM
sevarre sevarre is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scanatee View Post
These are listed here. They are as follows:
  • 47uF 6.3v
  • 47uF 6.3v
  • 22uF 6.3v
THANK YOU VERY MUCH sevarre!
No problem! Thanks for pointing me to a reference for that mystery board, as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scanatee View Post
For some background, here's what I'm trying to fix.

https://streamable.com/p3mb2

The video will usually play somewhat, but it's SUPER dark and has no color at all. When I pause I get static as shown near the end, then the static won't go away. Some tapes play as all static, but the sound works. The mechanism seems like it's in good shape and I cleaned the heads (they weren't even that dirty it turns out). I think this thing belonged to a school and didn't see a lot of use. Hopefully the recap gets me a nearly like-new machine! I paid $100 for it.

I'm going to try a local dude in Baltimore who probably has gear to tune up this VCR once it works. Ideally it'd be up to par with my TGrant 1980 I got recently - MAN IS THAT NICE! If I can't get anyone local do tune it up properly, I'll probably be asking for recommendations on gear to do it myself. I have a lot of equipment already like an o-scope, so AFAIK if I get the right function and sweep generators and follow the service manual I should be able to do it myself.
WOW that is pretty dark. That could be something deeper than the Y/C board, but I am no expert. I have no experience with tuning VCR's either. I will look in to that and see what I can figure out (have a scope and waveform monitor, but I have literally no idea what is involved in tuning a VCR).
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  #115  
05-20-2019, 03:30 PM
scanatee scanatee is offline
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Yeah I have a scope and some other basic equipment, but it seems the gold standard in tuning a vcr is specialized sweep and signal generators. You can seemingly pick these upon eBay from $50-$200 for most units, but as I don't plan on doing this often I'm probably going to go visit that little shop in Baltimore that purports to tune VCRs and see what the owner says. If I get a bad result from that interaction, I'll consider either sending it off (sigh) or doing it myself.
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