ATI 600 USB video capture card drivers + Catalyst Media Center [DOWNLOAD]
 

You'll find the attached file downloads at the bottom of this top post.
The ATI 600 USB card has proven itself to be an excellent second choice to the ATI All In Wonder Radeon cards.


ATI TV Wonder HD 600 USB drivers / ATI Catalyst Media Center (ATI CMC)

This is an ISO image of the CD that came with the ATI TV Wonder HD 600 USB card (or simply "ATI 600 USB" as many of us refer to it), as extracted with ImgBurn (read>ISO) and then multi-part split into 15 RAR archives with WinRAR. It contains the drivers needed for the ATI 600 USB card, as well as the suggested ATI CMC video recording software, used to capture MPEG-2 (NTSC format only -- no PAL) to DVD-Video specs or 15kbps "high bitrate" sub-broadcast specs.

This is also reported as working with the ATI TV Wonder HD 600 PCI card and ATI TV Wonder HD 650 PCI card.

ATI 650 specific drivers are available here: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...i-650-usb.html

If you're considering buying an ATI 600 card, get it here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B0035BJGYW

How to Install:

Extract the ISO from the RAR file, and either burn to a CD (not DVD!), or load with your favorite virtual CD/DVD drive utility (I suggest the freeware GizmoDrive or MagicDisc). Install the drivers first. To install the drivers, navigate to the correct folder structure*.

*Autoplay Note: If your computer is set up to "just do stuff" when a CD or DVD is put into your computer -- meaning autoplay is enabled on CD/DVD drives -- then you may have problems. I'm not entirely convinced the autoplay app, which is supposed to be "smart" and make decisions for you, knows how to properly select the correct driver for your version of Windows. I've seen it fail to install via autoplay, but installs fine with manual selection of the proper driver.

If Q:\ was your CD/DVD drive letter, then go to:

• Windows XP: Q:\Install\XP and run Setup.exe
• Windows XP 64-bit: I don't believe this hardware works with XP 64. (Don't have a copy of the OS to test with.)
• Windows Vista 32-bit: Q:\Install\Vista\Bin and run Setup.exe
• Windows Vista 64-bit: Q:\Install\Vista\Bin64 and run Setup.exe
• Windows 7 32-bit: Q:\Install\Vista\Bin and run Setup.exe
• Windows 7 64-bit: Q:\Install\Vista\Bin64 and run Setup.exe

And then separately install ATI Catalyst Media Center (ATI CMC) from Q:\Install\XP\CMC for ALL VERSIONS of Windows.

Note: YES, it works with Windows XP, Windows Vista and Windows 7. No special method is required to install in any version of Windows. For Windows 7, simply use the Windows Vista drivers. This has already been discussed in the forum: ATI 600 card doesn't work in Windows 7, how to use? -- specifically read post#9. (It has alternative drivers for Windows 7, should they be needed.)


How to Download

To get access to download the files, simply join the forum as a Free Member (it's free!) and that's it. You'll be able to download. We provide files like this for the convenience and support of our members, including both Free and Premium Members. We don't send spam or sell your e-mail addresses. If you're not sure what to do with the attached ZIP or RAR files, then read this help post.

Don't forget to thank us! We don't have to do stuff like this, and it takes a lot of time. To support this site, consider becoming a Premium Member for $20 and join a community of quality-seeking video professionals and enthusiasts alike, to get help with your video or other media projects. Don't just be a downloader, become a valued site member, whether you ask questions, or answer them! Or just drop us a quick thank-you donation -- $2, $5, whatever -- that we can use to pay for the site costs.

Buying Tip: You can find ATI 600 USB cards used here on the Marketplace subforum -- also sometimes from Amazon.com or eBay, but make sure these are complete with ALL wires!


LS Edit: New ISO uploaded, only 5 parts now!

Historical:
ATI 600 USB Setup CD (180-V01122-200).part01.rar (32.00 MB, 1797 downloads)
ATI 600 USB Setup CD (180-V01122-200).part02.rar (32.00 MB, 1417 downloads)
.................................................. .... | .................................................. ..
ATI 600 USB Setup CD (180-V01122-200).part15.rar (11.12 MB, 1255 downloads)

Thanks, lordsmurf! :)

I just got my "brand-new" ATI 600 USB card yesterday -- shrink-wrapped box and sealed plastic bags, from an eBay seller -- only to discover that it came without ATI CMC (which the listing specifically said it included) and instead came with "ArcSoft TotalMedia" -- a different CD-ROM altogether! Heck, I don't know whether the drivers on the CD-ROM are even the same -- or whether they even work! :(

But now, thanks to your post, I can uninstall that stuff and re-install with the real CD-ROM! :thumb:

Kevin

Thanks for posting this LS. I can confirm it also works with the 650 PCI card on XP. Now to try and learn how to use it and the JVC 9800 I have.

Thank you very much.

Ok, so the question is this:
Will this card (USB) http://www.diamondmm.com/TVW650USB.php do the job of capturing Huffyuv from composite with 3d comb filter?
I have MacBookPro bootcamp Windows partition.
--Leonid

Yes, it should capture both (1) lossless Huffyuv AVI in VirtualDub, and (2) MPEG-2 in ATI CMC. :thumb:

Macbooks can be fickle, however. Just see what happens.
I know we have another newer post dealing with your post-purchase issues: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...tv-wonder.html
(Clearing out the forum queue.)

Can anyone recommend the best CMC settings for the 600 USB? I have just bought one and at first it wouldn't work with my PAL tapes but now it does :)

there is an ati600 guide in the works-hopefully it will be out soon

Did that guide ever get finished?

If you navigate through

X:\Install\Vista\Packages\Drivers\WDM\TVW_HSUSB\se tup.exe
X:\Install\XP\TVW_HSUSB\setup.exe

then you can install directly without the ATI Catalyst garbage slowing the process down. Both directories contain identical files (verified by SFV); the Vista directory just adds a pointless MSI version of the installer.

From the INI you can see the directories are straight from eMPIA.
I've attached the relevant directory as a ZIP so that I don't have to download the whole CD next time! :) (I didn't use RAR because it was only .7MB smaller, with Best compression.)

The newest ATI 600 USB driver on AMD's website, from 2010, still uses these identical files even though eMPIA updated the drivers in 2009 and in 2011.

hm weird when I install the usb drivers from the post above for the ATI 600 USB everything looks good, I plug the device in after and it recognizes it then I go to virtual dub and capture then select my capture device and hit ok then BAM BSOD :(. Happened twice now so it isn't a fluke >.<. I'm running windows XP all updated and all that fancy crap.

uninstall ALL ATI software, then run CCleaner registry cleaner until i finds nothing, then restart and install it fresh.
ATI Catalyst software is a pain to install, but once working it is fine.

alright I'll give it a try thanks volksjager

-- merged --

interesting, I did that volksjager and still ran into BSOD so I switched from virtualdubmod to 'normal' virtual dub and it works perfectly?

I thought virtualdubmod just had mpeg2 added onto it? But apparently it makes a huge difference

-- merged --

what are everyone's settings for timing? My tapes start in sync and by the end they are night and day out of sync. I don't see any frame drops and i have nothing else running (no virus scan on this pc) while i capture

Just correct audio portion after the capturing. I do it all the time. I capture an entire tape. Then I capture the ending and figure out how to stretch or squeeze the sound file to sync it with video. If you need details how to do it, let me know.

thanks metaleonid....can you give me some details on how to do that please :)

Assuming your sound gradually goes ahead or behind of the video.

Capture an entire video tape with the sound into the 1st file. Call it main.avi. Then capture the very end of the tape (about a minute or so) with the sound and call it say master.avi. Load both video files into 2 instances of VirtualDub. Find the identical frame in both VirtualDubs. Write down the frame number of the 2nd (short) video (which you call master.avi). Then rewind it to frame 0. Rewind main.avi to the frame to match 0th frame. Basically just subtract the frame number you wrote down from the current frame. The result of the subtraction operation is the frame number you want to go to. So both frames must match again. Now write down the time of this frame in main.avi. Say for example 50:43.362 (50 minutes, 43 seconds and 362 milliseconds). Then cut everything from the beginning up to the current frame. Then save both WAV files. The main.wav is the file which needs to be adjusted. master.wav is adjusted relative to the initial frame. (you said that when you start the video, the sound is sync, then it gradually goes out of sync). Load both wav files into sound editor preferably SoundForge. Preferably 'cause I only know how to operate with it. Now by analyzing WAV files in the sound editor you can see the difference between WAV files. It's very easy to detect how far behind or ahead main.wav is from master.wav. Now you need to record the difference in audio samples. Say the difference is 7896 samples.

Then what you do is load your main.avi again in VirtualDub and save an entire WAV. Call it say tobeadjusted.wav or something like that. Load it into sound editor and go to the spot which you recorded. In my example it is 50:43.362. Then you need to express this spot in audio samples. Each sound editor should be able to do it. Say that 50:43.362 is equivalent to 634578421 samples.

Next step you need to either stretch or squeeze your tobeadjusted.wav. There are several ways to do it. If you want to increase or decrease the speed by the factor, the formula is used either (634578421 + 7896) / 634578421 or (634578421 - 7896) / 634578421 depending whehter your sound is ahead or behind.

I usually set a different sampling rate and then resample to 48000.

The sampling rate you have captured with is 48000 (I assume so). If not, then you should be doing 48000.
So the new sampling rate is either 48000 * (634578421 + 7896) / 634578421 (if your sound is behind of the video) or 48000 * 634578421 / (634578421 + 7896) (if your sound is ahead of the video). Round to the nearest integer of course. Then set the sampling rate of your file to the new sampling rate, but do not resample. Note that if your sampling rate is 47995 (that's usually my case), you are stretching the sound file. If it is say 48002, you are squeezing the sound file. Now resample to 48000. Save the file. Load again your video in virtualdub, but disable the sound there. Load the sound file that you saved as a stream in VirtualDub and make it active. Play the video in VirtualDub to make sure you got it synced. Then save the video file.

Audio almost never goes out of sync gradually ... it just looks that way. Most drop video frames, don't report it, and the audio is unaffected. That's what happens. And when it does, you need to recapture. That's the only way to truly correct the issue.

Converting audio times is a sloppy workaround that may or may not work. But it'll never be perfect.

If you have this issue on an ATI 600 card, there may be an issue elsewhere in the system.

Are you capturing with VirtualDub 1,9, and not 1.10?

it is really nice to have you back LS :P

I'm capturing with 1.9

altho I found something very interesting....on retail vhs tapes...0 problems at all...homemade recorded off tv shows almost always out of sync? I use xp with a barebones system..aka no virus scanner, doesn't go online, most of the non important services/programs are removed.

Thanks. :hearts: ... it's not over yet, but I'm recovered enough to slowly use two hands online now.

And a TBC is in the chain? Which one?
If the commercial tape was fine, that points to a lack of TBC, or a flawed TBC like the bad-chipset AVT-8710.

no TBC as I can't afford a good one quite yet and don't want to get a pos one. It is on my list for santa this year along with a vcr

so is there anything I can do for non retail tapes?

Nope. That's the issue, unfortunately -- lack of TBC. It's a quality of signal issue. You need the TBC.

ouch guess I'll be doing some homework then to grab the right one

Is there any advantage in using virtualdub over the ati catalyst software?

ATI CMC = for MPEG only, NTSC only (USA, Canada, Japan, few others)
VirtualDub = for lossless/uncompressed AVI only, NTSC or PAL

That's the difference.

I just got 600 USB stick. I was wondering if I can just install the drivers exclusively without any Catalyst software and use VirtualDub for capture? If so, how do I install the drivers without Catalyst?

I used these in this post

http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...html#post26238

hope it helps

Just refer to the first post here: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...i-600-usb.html

Note the following text:
In other words, you don't have to install Catalyst Media Center (ATI CMC) unless you want to, for capturing NTSC MPEG.
You can certainly capture with VirtualDub, once the drivers are installed, to either NTSC or PAL AVI files.

Use Huffyuv.

I don't have ATI CMC installed on some computers here, either. We shuffle the cards to different systems as needed, and only two of them have ATI CMC installed. All of them have VirtaulDub, however. And all of them have the ATI 600 USB drivers installed.

Now go capture! :P

It's not working. I have both Lenovo laptop and MacBookPro with MacOs installed. In MacBookPro inside Mac OS I have Oracle VirtualBox which runs Windows XP. I installed the drivers for XP for both Lenovo and guest addition Widnows XP. When I start VirtualDub, Windows XP crashes on both Lenovo laptop and guest addition of VirtualBox. So something is wrong. I then downloaded VirtualVCR. VirtualVCR works on Lenovo laptop. It doesn't work on guest addition of VirtualBox' Windows XP. Any tips?

i wouldnt bother with a virtual box and macs are horrid for video capture anyway.
pick up a cheap XP computer at a yard sale, the Craplist or at a thrift store and use it sole for capture.
find one with a AGP slot, a decent P4 or AMD and 2gb or so of ram.
do a fresh install of XP pro and you will be golden
this is older stuff and dirt cheap
i built a really nice capture PC for cheap money

i dont like using my main internet/gaming PC for captuing

I actually do have old school XP PC which I built in 2000. 512MB RAM, AMD Athlon. It has SAA713x Philips based capture card. But I wanted to move away from PCs to laptops to save space and such.

The question I have is that is there anyone out there did actually use ATI USB 600 with VirtualDub?

Yeah. One of our computers has a DataVideo TBC inside, a pair of JVC decks, and the ATI 600 card for capture.

It uses a set of studio speakers for audio preview, routed through a DataVideo VP-299 distribution amp. We can here the speakers and it can record audio without preview.

JVC VCR > via RCA > VP299 >
... > via RCA > ATI 600, no audio preview in VirtualDub
... > via RCA > RCA/mini crossover cable > speakers

Not having audio preview depends entirely on the audio card. Some have it, some don't. Soundblaster has "What U Hear". This computer is not to be used for capturing long term, hence not replacing the audio card, and only using the ATI 600 USB and not an internal ATI AIW (our card of choice).

It does an excellent job capturing Huffyuv.

Use VirtualDub v1.9, not 1.10. :2cents:

ATI USB 600 stick worked with VirtualDub 1.9 on my Lenovo laptop. I captured over an hour video from VHS to the external hard drive. Not a single frame drop. Moreover the image quality was a bit better than that from my FlyVideo LifeView 3000 card which equipped with Philips SAA713x chip. The image was slightly sharper.

There's no AGC. The gain is fixed. There was no blown up white smear at all. And in that sense it even outperformed my FlyVideo LifeView card (that has manual gain control) in some white areas.

I wish I could've gotten my hands on this stick earlier before I converted all my 20+ Hi8 tapes to Huffyuv using SAA713x equipped card. Because my Hi8 cassettes weren't XR, I will not be redoing it with ATI stick. Otherwise I would've reconsidered. Thank you guys.

By the way, please advise optimal settings on ATI USB stick proc amp. I set everything to default. Sharpness was +2. Is it correct setting?

As with most capture devices I've looked at, sharpness should be set to 0. This doesn't negatively impact the actual resolution captured by the ATI 600, and any higher values cause ringing.

The ATI 600 has no AGC that I'm aware of. It capture whatever is input. As far as I know, most cards lack an AGC. And that's a good thing. It cards like the ATI 650 that have issues with luma flusing during recording, because if the AGC.

Yes, don't artificially sharpen the image. Leave it turned off (or 0 value). That true of all cards, and most VCRs. That was detailers are for, as they're way more accurate at creating false sharpness.

0 is the minimum value by the way. There's no negative value. So +2 is in the middle. So minimum value is going to be sharpness off, right?

By the way, I also want to try ATI PCI 550 for motion adaptive 3d comb filter. Is there AGC or is gain fixed?
And I also want to try ATI Theater HD 750 USB. Same question. Is there AGC or is gain fixed?

The 550 is a hardware MPEG-2 encoder, so I don't believe it works in VirtualDub.

The 750 USB has no 3D comb filter and has been reported to have AGC issues. The 750 PCIe is different hardware: 3D comb filter, and I still haven't seen anyone present evidence of an AGC issue. Of course that doesn't help you with a laptop.

Yes, 0 value for sharpness is verified to be optimal. It's the best. What about values for brightness, contrast, hue and tint? Should I set them in the middle? By default they are in the middle, except for Brightness which is at 111 out of 255. Should I set it to to 128 instead?

Yep! :thumb:

Put them at the zero/parity value unless you notice a color shift when calibrating it on pro equipment. It sorts of reminds me of DSLRS, as many need slight tweaks green or magenta to fix either the preview screen or the CCD/CMOS sensor (or both). The key here is to ONLY do it with pro gear, however. You never want to adjust something like this using consumer equipment -- a non-IPS monitor or bradocast preview monitor, in this case -- as all you'd be doing is compensating for the output device. You'd actually be making the video worse otherwise!

I will say this: I don't know if the brightness value *is* the parity setting. Lots of things are measured weird. Let you eyes be the best judge. Change it, and then see if either luma value are crushed (too black) or blown out (too white/bright).

Well, I don't have a pro equipment so I won't be able to test. And also I wouldn't even know what values should be true.

Ok, what values do you set it too. You do have 600 USB, right? So tell me your values and I will copy.

Thank you, thank you and thank you again. Finally got picture, only had sound. Nice work man.