Got my TBC-1000 and as promised here are the images:

Attachment 1303
Attachment 1304

Higher res shots:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8991/tbc10001.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/8819/tbc10002.jpg

Also got a Panasonic NV-HS 1000 and I am quite happy with the quality.
Was not very happy with my JVC HR S8960E I bought new years ago. (DNR leaves artifacts sometimes).
Only thing that's still left on my to do list is exchange the ADVC 110 to a Backmagic Intensity Shuttle well and probably do the TBC-1000 mod as well.

It's worth mentioning that if your TBC-1000 works without faults, the mod won't propably affect the PQ much. I did it because there were real problems. :)

My TBC 1000 does not seem to suffer problems like weared connectors but anyway I did a quick mod on the TBC 1000 without needing to modify the TBC 1000 itself.
I took an old internal CD Audio cable dissected the plugs and soldered on a S-Video cable on it put on some shrink tubes and here we go:

Attachment 1305
http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/357/tbc10003.jpg

Took me probably ~1 hour to build the cable.

So it's possible to plug off the output cable from the TBC 100 circuit board that runs to the distribution board and plug this cable in and connect it directly to (in my case) the BM intensity shuttle. If the distribution is needed just re-plug in the other cable.
Maybe I'll do a second one for the input side also.

BTW: the intensity shuttle is a really nice device - I'm stunned with the quality :)
In contrast to some reviews on amazon it only took me 5 minutes to set up the device and capture the first video in virtualdub. (Did the homework before and updated the drivers and firmware of my USB 3.0 card).

VHS capture without a full frame TBC and the blackmagic intensity shuttle is a no go! A full frame TBC in between is an absolute must in this case.

Very interesting. :)

Thanks for sharing those images.

edit: Nevermind I misread something..

Interesting. I wonder if that causes the sometimes-visible "bars" that some owners have seen on their units. However, I still think much of that is related to dirty incoming power, and lack of any AVR on a UPS (assuming they're even using a UPS).

EDIT:
Hmmmm.... you just edited this out of your post. What did you miss?

I misread that Bugs.Bunny used CD-audio cable, when he was really using just the connector. What I noted about the internal connectors which are propably not rated 75ohm holds true. It likely doesn't affect the picture in a meaninfull way tho.

Did solder a second cable for the input side now as well. Hard to say if there is a big difference between direct wired and normal wired (with the distributor). Maybe it's a bit sharper direct wired. Have no DVD player around here to do some testing like juhok.
Did also exchange the original 120V Adapter + transformer 220V->120V (this way I got it from ebay) to one that works from 100 to 240V and is rated for use with medical equipment (I've got 230V here). One from http://dehner.net/en The TBC 1000 works fine with it.
Before the power consumption of the TBC 1000 was ~38W now it's 9W (checked it with a cheap watt-meter).

What I would like to know is how much the TBC 1000 delays the video compared to audio. Is there a free test clip I can download then record on vhs and then capture and look in adobe audition how much video was delayed to audio?

In the virtual dub capture / timing dialogue there is an option about audio latency determination.
I've currently set the timing options this way:

Attachment 1312

http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/5...ingoptions.jpg

@juhok: You've got a blackmagic device also. How did you configure the timing options in VirtualDub? And how did you measure audio/video delay?

Last time I checked there was 8 millisecond delay. That's neglible. The test clip was created with avisynth "Colorbars()" and recorded to DVD. TBC-1000 does not incorporate audio delay circuitry and the audio is only pass-thru. This small one frame delay is nothing to worry about.

IIRC they're at defaults.

The delay is either 1 frame, or half of 1 frame. I forget which it is.

Would anyone mind upping some pics of a modded tbc-1000? I know Bugs.Bunny upped some pictures, but they are the tbc default with the cover off. I am having some issues that developed sort of recently and I am not exactly sure what may be the cause of it. Lord Smurf pointed me over to this thread here.

To make a long story short please check the link below for my original post on videohelp.com. I also upped a video clip of what my TBC was doing. I do have a new power plug for it as well as a higher end belkin surge device (that supposedly cleans power as well), but the problem returned the
other night

http://forum.videohelp.com/threads/3...49#post2075849

I don't know that you need any more images. Simply create a cable as shown in post #24, and then unplug the 4-pin coming from the mainboard (see images in post #22), and replace it with your custom s-video cable. That will bypass the distribution amp on the back end of the unit.

Look at the photo/diagram, and understand how this TBC works. Follow the wires. Audio passes from the inputs directly to the output board on back. Video passes from the input to the TBC board. It's a TBC-100 PCI card, and even has the "slot" piece shown inside this TBC-1000. Video then passes out of the TBC-100 back into the split amped outputs. Disconnect it at this stage, from the mainboard, and substitute your own wire. Don't bother with the audio either, pass directly from the VCR to the recorder card/device. Just skip the distribution amp entirely.

Does that make sense?

Sure, more photos may help it become more obvious, but it's really not all that necessary. :)

Yes it does. I had to take a much closer look at the printing on the main circuit board to see the label of "in and out".
Let me ask now, I know I have one of those older cd 4 pins somewhere that came with an older dvd/cd drive. However is it a simple match up the wire type splice or is it a bit more involved when making it??

PM Bugs.Bunny, and ask that he post the answer here. :)

Just as a guess, I'm thinking it's a simple wire to wire match. At least that's how his photos look. Pretty much everything I would have suggested or thought of is already written in the thread so far.

I did disassemble the plug as good as I could:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/853/plug1.jpg
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/3707/plug2.jpg
Then I soldered the s-video cable on the pins I disassembled, then put shrinking tubes on the cables and reassembled the plug.

Thank you for the reply. Ignore the PM I just sent as I did not see your post first

just wanted to say that Bugsbunny was kind enough to sell me some of his modified wires. In my TBC's case I am hoping it is just the output that is bad, so I do not have to do any further modding to the actual case. It looks a bit crude, but does the job (did a quick test, did not have time to do a full film to see if the problem occurs). I then attached an svhs coupler jack to his wire. Yes I also sealed up the hole that appears on the top where the wire is fed through, I would not leave it open like that. PS: please disregard the mess with the other wires in the pic, everything has been cleaned up

Attachment 1576

Hi, I think a good tutorial explaining how to do those mods will be welcome for everybody, especially for people that doesn't have any knowledge or experience with electronics, including me. That will be helpfull, at least.

Also, maybe a bit more informations about the parts that have been tempered with and where to find them (whit links to them).

Thanks again and keep on the good works.

I bought a DataVideo VP-299, hoping to just add the TBC-100 to make a TBC-1000, but the power supplies are completely different.
I'm not exactly sure how to proceed.

ARRGGHHH! :mad:

Anyone know where i can buy one of those little connectors to make up a lead like above to disconnect the distribution amp?
Do those connectors have astandard name?
Thanks

-- merged --

I thought i already posted this but it must of got deleted or something. I have seen inside 2 different TBC1000. There is clearly 2 different TBC1000's out there that use different TBC100. If you look back the photos in this thread, you can see some components on a orange PCB. I have photos of a TBC1000 that does not have these components on the PCB. The 3 legged device whos name escapes me is mounted on the TBC100 in the photos i have. Not sure if the capacitors and diode are scattered around the place (not counted the capacitors) but its clearly different as to where they feed the power into the TBC100. I have never seen this mentioned before. I dont know how different the separate TBC100 are when you buy them but they have clearly stripped some components off that board in the photos above and mounted them on a separate orange PCB but on the version i have there is no separate orange board and appears to be an unmodified TBC100. I wonder if this accounts for varing results when using the TBC1000. Everyone will be lifting the hood on their TBC1000 now. Which version do you have? I wonder if we can work out when each version was made?