Video
Guides > Encoding/Converting > PAL/NTSC Standards
Article last updated March 10, 2009
This guide focuses on what is both one of the
hardest AND most in-demand conversions: converting
interlaced PAL to NTSC. It
is written to convert PAL DVD to NTSC DVD, but the
information will help to convert non-DVD video too.
Before
we begin
Avoidance is the best policy. It it honestly a rare
situation that a person needs to convert formats, in the
modern era of video. Chances are that 99 out of every 100
people reading this guide do not actually need to
convert — if not all 100 of them!
How to play PAL to NTSC DVDs then? For years now, DVD
players (and many DVD recorders) have been built from
one-size-fits-the-world kits, manufactured and assembled
cheaply in China. This has actually been of tremendous
benefit to the video world. These players/recorders share
the same MPEG decoder chips capable of playing both PAL and
NTSC video. With very few exceptions, most players sold in
NTSC countries have been able to play region-free PAL for at
least five or six years now (since about 2003). PAL players
all play NTSC, using the PAL-60 quasi display very similar
to analog Brazilian PAL. The only caveat with playing a
"foreign" disc is that the disc needs to be made
region-free.
PAL/NTSC formats are are not the same as regions! DVD
regions are artificial markets created by the studios,
manufacturers and licensees to control where videos are
bought and sold in the world. It's the video world
equivalent to OPEC, where studios attempt to control not
only pricing, but where DVDs can be played. Most all players
are capable of playing both PAL and NTSC, however few
machines (unless hacked) are capable of playing other
regions.
Region-free? There are two ways to make a video
"region-free" — either alter the DVD
player/recorder, or alter the disc. Altering the disc is as
easy as copying the disc, using software such as DVDFab or
DVD Decrypter, both of which can be set to strip region data
(and come this way in the default setup when installed).
Every disc can be altered in this manner. The other option,
altering the player, really depends on the player. Because
so many players are created for worldwide use, regions are
usually set in hidden/secret menus, or in the firmware of
the unit. Very often, these can be set to "region
0" or "no region" thereby allowing all discs
to play. Sites such as VideoHelp.com are known to have
database on players capable of being "hacked" in
this manner.
What's the difference between PAL and NTSC? In the
"old days" of analog broadcasts and video tapes,
PAL and NTSC video were so vastly different that only a
special (and often very expensive) VCR or VCP could play
both kinds of tapes. In fact, in those days, there were
several types of PAL, several types of NTSC, a weird NTSC/PAL
hybrid, and the unpopular SECAM formats. In the analog days,
color systems were entirely incompatible, the framerates
were different, and resolutions were different, and the
power supplies were different per country.
The digital age condensed everything into simply PAL and
NTSC, saw the implementation of worldwide power circuits
(only the plug is different), color was all stored
universally as YUV data, and both framerate and resolution
could be digitally augmented to suit the desired display.
PAL to
NTSC
This guide will instruct on how to convert from an
interlaced PAL disc to an NTSC film disc.
For this guide, you'll need the following software:
1. DVD
Decrypter
2. Womble
MPEG Video Wizard (or another MPEG editor)
3. VirtualDub
capable of opening MPEG-2 files (and includes the built-in
Resize filter)
4. VirtualDub additional filters: Static
Noise Reduction and Deinterlace
Area-Based
5. Goldwave,
or another audio editor capable of augmenting time lengths
6. TMPGEnc
Plus 2.5
7. TMPGEnc
DVD Author or TMPGEnc DVD Author Works 4
8. ImgBurn
Quality Note: Generally, the best video work is
performed one stage at a time, often with many software
packages. If the source is analog, it must carefully be
captured. After that, it is edited, then encoded, then
authored, each in a separate program. A lot of people,
especially consumers, want to cheat, using one piece of
software to do everything. And while it is sometimes
possible to do this within the NTSC or PAL format, and still
achieve acceptable results, it is almost impossible to do so
between formats. This is an advanced technique, and
stubbornness and laziness is simply not allowed. Even the
best conversion method will look imperfect, so sloppy/lazy
methods tend to look downright dreadful or unviewable!
When it comes to PAL>NTSC conversion, it seems that most
people are actually trying to "reconvert" video.
By this I mean the video was originally shot or created in
an NTSC format, then converted to PAL for overseas broadcast
or release, and then the PAL version has been re-imported
back to North America. For whatever reason (usually stupid
rights arguments), the content is not available in its
original native format. Because of this, know that the PAL
video you have already has artifacts, typically ghosting or
blurring. So this guide does its best to minimize adding
further artifacts. Sloppy methods DOUBLE the amount of
ghosting and blurring.
Step
1 - Extraction
For this to work, the most elementary audio and video
streams must be extracted from the disc.
Preface: DVD-Video discs are created from an authored
set of files, in a strict structure comprised of IFO , BUP
and VOB files. Audio and video data, and other data such as
navigation (chapters) and subtitles, are contained in the
VOBs. These files tend to confuse software, as DVD-Video is
an end format, and was never created with the intention of
being edited. Therefore the VOB files cannot be used as-is,
the data we need must be extracted carefully. If you skip
this step, you'll probably have problems.
Install DVD Decrypter, if you do not already have it
on your system. Once it is set up, go to TOOLS >
SETTINGS, go to the IFO MODE tab, and then change the VOB
file splitting options to NONE. The other settings are not
as important for this guide, but feel free to match what is
shown in the image below.

For this guide, I'm using the now-rare and out-of-print
Australian (PAL R4) releases of the classic 1980s Inspector
Gadget cartoon. It's really easy to see video flaws in
animation, so it makes for a great example. (Reminder: There
is no good reason to convert this DVD set, I would normally
watch it on a region-free DVD recorder in the studio, or
watch the region-free DVD copy on the DVD player in the home
living room.)
Rip the video in IFO mode. As happens in any other
guide on digitalFAQ.com that deals with editing footage from
a DVD, the audio and video data needs to be ripped by PGC
(the complete video) using IFO mode in DVD Decrypter. Simply
change the program to IFO mode, select a destination where
files are to be ripped, and click the big button. As seen in
the example, this disc has several PGCs, as the DVD is
comprised of a half dozen episodes.

After finishing this step, you should have one or more VOB
files on the hard drive, in the location chosen as your
destination.
Step
2 - More Extraction
Now that the videos are off the disc, it's time to extract
the basic audio and video data from the VOB files. We'll use
an older, inexpensive yet reliable tool for this: TMPGEnc
Plus 2.5.
1. Start TMPGEnc, the click on FILE > MPEG TOOLS and it
will open the tools dialog.
2. Click on the De-multiplex (demux) tab. Do not choose the
"Simple" one.
3. Click BROWSE and then navigate to the folder where your
ripped DVD files are located.
4. Change the file type to "all files" so that
your VOB files become visible.
5. Select the VOB file, and click open.

What you see next is the entire contents of the VOB, with
the option to extract each element one by one. Double-click
on the video stream, and a dialog box will appear asking
where you'd like to save the file. Save it somewhere that
you remember (it's suggested that you use a project folder,
don't just randomly save files all over your computer).
Repeat for the audio stream. Depending on your DVD, you may
have several audio options. You'll need to play your DVD to
see which stream is required. (Note: 0x80 is first audio,
0x81 is second, etc.)

Step
3 - Pre-Editing
If there is any "extra" footage in the recording,
this is a good time to remove it. This would include blank
video before or after the video, excess promos or
commercials anywhere in the video, etc. Yes, editing later
can be done, but it makes the process more complicated, and
this guide is intended to make the process as simple as
possible.
Since the video is currently stored in MPEG format, you'll
need an MPEG encoder. Due to the sometimes-erratic nature of
video, Womble MPEG Video Wizard is suggested, as we know it
will work on the widest variety of sources. While other
editors may work, some of them are known to balk at
situations such as long movies or studio-produced DVD
release materials.
As video editors go, Womble MPEG Video Wizard is pretty much
idiot-proofed. A monkey with a stick could probably edit a
video pretty well with this thing! When the software starts,
you're presented with a preview window, a timeline area, and
a few other windows (that are not important for this guide).
Forget about "opening" or "importing"
your video into Womble MVW, it's a waste of time. Drag and
drop your video directly onto the timeline, and repeat for
the audio. It saves a lot of time, and is less steps.

(Note: I've unlocked the window arrangement, and changed the
size and position of some windows. This is why my sample
image above probably looks a slight bit different from
yours.)
Editing. The fundamentals and finer points of editing
with Womble MPEG Video Wizard will be covered in another
guide. However, to quickly review the basics, you
would:
1. Use the slider to "scrub" (go back and forth
over) the video
2. Use the scissors to cut the video. When a segment is cut
on both side, simply hit the DELETE key on the keyboard, and
then drag the remaining videos together. Be careful to not
stretch the videos, only move them.
3. To "zoom in" closer to the video (up to 1 frame
at a time) or "zoom out", right-click on the
timeline measurements and select one that is either more or
less time. Zooming closer allows for more precise cuts, and
makes it harder to accidentally stretch a video when moving
it along the timeline.
When the editing is finished, save the new MPEG file by
clicking on the not-too-obvious EXPORT button on the main
menu.

A new dialog box will appear with several tabs. On the
GENERAL tab, you select the destination and name of the new
file you're about to create. On the MONITOR tab is a DETAILS
button. In the details dialog window, it will displayer
information on the edit that is about to take place. There
video should be blue, not red, and is not supposed to be
re-encoded. The audio can be re-encoded, that is fine, as
long as it is still 48kHz audio with a decent bitrate
(192kpbs or higher for MP2 or AC3).
This step will create a ready-to-convert clip. No more
editing is allowed after this point, for the purpose of
keeping the process simple. (Advanced editors can do
whatever they want.)
Step
4 - Demux (Extraction) of new Audio and Video
Video and audio is going to be converted separately. Womble
MPEG Video Wizard created a multiplex audio+video file, but
we need to have separate audio and video for the next few
steps. To achieve this, open up TMPGEnc PLus 2.5 again. Go
to FILE > MPEG TOOLS again. This time, you're allowed to
use the Simple Demultiplexer, and save a separate audio and
video file to your project folder.
Note: New files names are probably suggested at each
step you take. The files I've created or this guide have
included:
"VTS_01_1.VOB" as generated from the DVD Decrypter
extraction
"Gadget Sample Edited Source.mpg" from the Womble
work
"Gadget Sample Video.m2v" and "Gadget Sample
Audio.ac3" from the demux
Take advantage of long filenames, make intelligent names
that mean something. Using something sloppy or stupid simply
adds confusion. This is how all computer work should
honestly be done.
Step
5 - Conversion of Video using VirtualDub
You should have already "installed" VirtualDub
(unzip the setup files) to "C:\Program Files\VirtualDub",
and have the the required extra filters installed (unzip
download files) to "C:\Program Files\VirtualDub\plugins"
folder. The plugins must be present in this folder before
VirtualDub is started.
Start VirtualDub and then open up your M2V file. It
may take several minutes to load this file, depending on the
length of your video. VirtualDub reads every frame, one at a
time. Once the video is loaded, go to VIDEO > FILTERS and
we'll begin to add the three required filters.

The filters window is somewhat self-explanatory. Click on
ADD to add a filter. Note that filters are processed in the
order by which they are added, and can be turned into
complex filter chains. We'll be chaining three filters to
convert this video. The filter at the top of chain is
processed first, the second filter down is second,
etc.
1. The first filter to be added is the DEINTERLACE
AREA-BASED filter. Once selected, the option window for
the filter will pop up, and it will have the default
settings shown. We want to change this. Deselect (uncheck)
the option that shows "Blend Instead of
Interpolate". Blending causes more blurs and ghosts,
and that's not a desired behavior.

2. The next filter to be added is the RESIZE filter.
The default size is 320x240, which is very low resolution
and not part of the DVD-Video specification.
- If your video was 720x576 or 704x576, then select
720x480.
- If your video was 352x576 then select 352x480 as your new
size.
- Change the filter mode to Lanczos3 for the best resize
method.
- Do not check the interlaced box. Do not expand the frame.
Note: This guide assumes that your video is free of
overscan noise. If this conversion is from an older analog
broadcast, especially a VHS recording, then masking the
overscan is suggested. This topic can be discussed in the
forum, for Premium Members, in the Restoration section
of the DVD Projects sub-forum.

3. The final filter we want to apply is STATIC NOISE
REDUCTION. This filter does not actually have anything
to do with the PAL>NTSC conversion process, but it is
being used for basic housekeeping on the video quality.
Various factors likely degraded the quality some, and this
will prevent further degradation when the video is
re-encoded to MPEG a little later on.
- Leave it at default settings. Level 6 and not interlaced
(unchecked box).

And finally, framerate conversion. The above filters
have properly removed the interlace (keyword:properly) and
changed the resolution to an NTSC-compliant size. The final
step is to alter the framerate to an NTSC-compliant
speed.
Most software would blend frames together to create new
ones. For example, the Procoder MPEG encoder software would
"convert" by taking 25 frames and changing them
into 29.97 (or 23.976) new frames. Each second of footage
would be changed into one new second with more (or less)
frames. The duration of the video would not change.
VirtualDub, however, is going to temporally shift frames.
For example, one second of 25fps PAL video will become one
new second of video with about 24 frames, leaving one extra
frame for the next second. Our video will be about 4 percent
longer, as every 24 extra frames becomes one more extra
second. This will cause audio to lose sync, and that will be
addressed in the next step. This shifting of frames is how
quality is maintained, and how further ghosting/blurring is
avoided.
Trivia: If the ultimate source of this video was NTSC
to begin with, before it was PAL, then all we're doing it
restoring it to its original length. Believe it or not, most
PAL videos are sped up. When needed, the audio pitch is also
adjusted by 4 percent to compensate for the
"chipmunk" pitch that can sometimes start to creep
in.
Go to VIDEO > FRAMERATE and change the framerate to
23.976 frames per second.

Save as AVI. By default, VirtualDub wants to save the
new video file as an uncompressed AVI. These files occupy
approximately 75GB per hour of footage. If you have the hard
drive space, uncompressed is highly desired. If you're
running low on hard drive space, then compression settings
can be changed to HuffYUV or another codec. Since this is
not really part of the conversion process, it's not being
discussed in detail in this guide. You'll need to ask
for more help in the forum, should this step be needed.
Although frameserving is also possible, it's suggested to
filter in one pass, and encode separately in another.
Frameserving can sometimes take longer than simply
performing two separate tasks.
Go to FILE > SAVE AS AVI and select a location and new
filename for the converted AVI file.
Step
6 - Conversion of Audio using Goldwave
Once the VirtualDub video conversion is finished, we need to
make the audio duration match the video duration. Although
there are folks online who give out certain percentages
(104%, 104.27%, etc) I find that it's best to simply open up
the newly-created video file in VirtualDub and see how long
it is, down to the thousandth of a second. Write this value
down and then close VirtualDub, you're done with it.
Although several audio editors may be suitable for this
task, I like Goldwave because it's an affordable solution,
it will open AC3 and MP2 files quickly and directly, and its
TIME WARP filter can be precisely edited to a thousandth of
a second identical to the VirtualDub reading.
Open your audio file in Goldwave. Much like
VirtualDub, Goldwave can take a while to process audio file,
so it may take several minutes to read your audio file,
depending on legnth. Once it is opened, go to EFFECT
> TIME WARP.

In many cases, the simple RATE mode, the default selection,
will be just fine. While this does alter pitch, remember
that you might be re-altering the pitch, depending on the
ultimate original source. You may want to always try RATE
mode first, and see how it sounds. If you detect a hint of
"chipmunk" in the audio, then come back and
perform the time change in FFT mode, with the oscillator
synthesis option.
Change the LENGTH in Goldwave to the length that was seen in
VirtualDub for the video portion of the movie, clip or
episode.
It may take a long time to process the audio, depending on
the source length, and the algorithm selected for
conversion. Once conversion is completed, save the corrected
audio to a new WAV file.
Step
7 - Encode back to MPEG for the now-NTSC Video
Having converted the video to NTSC format, it's time to
convert the video back to a DVD-compliant stream, meaning an
MPEG-2 file. While any number of encoders may work, the
years-old TMPGEnc Plus 2.5 software proves itself to be
reliable and easy to use for this task.
For this guide, only specific settings are going to be
mentioned. Look closely at the images shown here, and choose
the same options. If you've never used TMPGEnc Plus before,
refer to the TMPGEnc
Plus MPEG Encoding Guide for basic installation, setup
and typical encoding parameters.
The most important setting is going to be the
FRAMERATE and ENCODE MODE. For this video, we'll be encoding
to 2-PASS VBR (5500kbps average, 8000kbps maximum), at
"23.976 (internally 29.97fps)" and with an encode
mode of "3:2 Pulldown When Playback". Other
tweaked options, as compared to the TMPGEnc Plus guide, are
open GOPs, High Quality (Slow) motion search, ELEMENTARY
video only, and no filters.



Encode out to a new video file, as an elementary M2V stream.
Step
8 - Author new NTSC DVD
Now that the video has been converted and re-encoded to a
new DVD-compliant MPEG file, and the audio has been matched
and saved as a WAV, it's time to re-author the DVD.
Authoring can be simple (no menus) or complicated (custom
menus). While several authoring programs may work, the
ever-popular TMPGEnc DVD Author (TDA) works well, and is a
commonly-used inexpensive option.
More details on authoring with TDA can be found on the Authoring
with TDA Guide. This guide uses version 1.5, which we
tested with.
TMPGEnc DVD Author 3 and TMPGEnc Authoring Works 4 were
excellent too, and both are extremely similar to TDA1.5 in
GUI and function. The only note to make here is that TDA3
and TAW4 mistakenly believe that the 23.976 file is a
top-field interlaced 29.97 NTSC file, so do not attempt to
change this setting. The video will be butchered if this
setting is changed.
Updated guides for TDA3 and TAW4 are on the to-do list. In
the meantime, feel free to ask for
assistance in the forum (premium membership required for
the authoring section of DVD Projects sub-forum).
Step
9 - Burn Authored DVD
Since around 2007, the best way to burn a DVD-Video is to
use the freeware ImgBurn. If you're using something else,
stop, don't do it anymore. Other software ranges from awful
(Nero) to acceptable yet not suggested (RecordNow). Install
ImgBurn, and start it. Put it into BUILD MODE and drag your
authored VIDEO_TS and AUDIO_TS folders into the window.
Select your DVD burner, and use
a good disc. Detailed use of ImgBurn will be outlined in
a future guide. Until then, questions
can be asked in the forum.

Want
to see the samples?
To see the before (PAL) and after (NTSC) video files, you'll
need WinRAR
to "unzip" the RAR archive files. Inside each
archive is an ISO, a disc image that should be burned to a
disc using ImgBurn. A DVD+RW or DVD-RW is suggested. Because
these discs are only 45MB in size, some players (notably
XBOX gaming systems) may reject the smaller-than-1GB disc.
To obtain the full effect of the conversion quality, view
these on a television using a DVD player/recorder, not on a
computer. Each disc has the same video sample clip, about
one minute long.
- original
PAL sample clip disc (43MB download)
- converted-to-NTSC
sample clip disc (45MB download)
More
format conversion guides?
For now, this covers the most complicated and most requested
format conversion.
(1) To convert between NTSC film (24fps) and PAL, much of
this process is the same, simply skip the VirtualDub
deinterlacing.
(2) To create streaming videos, there would be an extra
cropping step in VirtualDub, although it should be noted
that there is almost zero reason to convert framerates on a
web stream as computers do not care about PAL or NTSC.
(3) Converting from PAL to NTSC is, more or less, a reversal
of the above process. Aside from advanced mix-source editing
projects, there is no good reason to convert NTSC to PAL,
seeing how all PAL DVD players have NTSC-60 mode for NTSC
playback.
What
this guide helpful?
This guide took about 11 hours to write, including all of
the related testing of video and audio files. If this guide
has been helpful, then please consider
donating a few dollars for upkeep and maintenance of the
site. A book or class would have been far more expensive,
and probably less helpful.
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