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Sync' detection varies quite a bit from what I've researched so far, it's unclear in the Philips datasheet as to how it's determined, but (going back a few posts) some of the cheap 'n' cheerful sync' separators I purchased earlier are quite crude, theoretically, they can sync' between 11% and 50% of the falling edge of the sync pulse... Good enough for fiddling with for experimentation, but probably not especially accurate compared to some methods. |
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It's FPGA based, which is interesting. :congrats: |
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TBCs are more than single chips, or even the default chipset instructions. You must be careful with RAM. There are side effects that result in things like the black AVT-8710. So you can't just grab any random RAM, and call it good. Nope. |
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I have dealt with him few months ago, He is a nice guy. sadly He seems to be AFK since about 2 months at least (also his last seen on video help is august)... Not so reassuring I hope he is ok and just taking break from the Web or sth. Quote:
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R&D costs money, There is theory behind, you don't need EEs only. Community projects will not yield a cheap product, it won't be there to lower cost, but at least will solve the shortage issue. To lower costs you need proper manufacturing procedure, with quantity which is costly overall, but reduces the cost per unit. I am willing to "invest" some money in such a project, but I don't think anyone is close enough to achieving something viable. Maybe it will be easier if some "experts" with some petitions and some crowdfunding manage to convince datavideo (or even cypress!) to produce like an extra batch of 3000-4000 units, this will relax things a lot! And since they were profitable enough for Datavideo when they retailed for 400$ it means the cost is less then 400, if they sell them brand new for 600$ we, consumers will be happy and they will make a lot of profit compared to old batches sold in 2000-2010. Quote:
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See also above. R&D needed again, not enough reward for the risk. Quote:
And I'm pretty sure that DataVideo never retailed for $400, more like $500 + shipping. The MSRP was much higher, and there were lowball "street prices" at shady NYC camera/video shops in the 90s. And none were in stock, or wink-wink it actually costs more. I have old magazines from the 90s, that shows gear and prices from places like B&H, or the scummy NYC fake prices. Quote:
The main issue is this was a business model of the 2000s. It's now a legacy task, and sometimes DIY is the only sensible option (vs. service). So congrats, Mr. Normal. You have a new hobby! (Or put the tapes back in the closet. If you never want to see video of your grandma again, it probably won't affect me. That's sad, but some folks just don't care.) People procrastinated for decades. Wait a few more decades, and your tapes will be ruined. So if you decide that DIY is best, suck it up, accept the costs of the tools. It's just a project. Buy it, use it, then resell it. Done. The conversion service wasn't going to be cheap or free anyway. It would cost money either way. At least the hardware costs can be recouped, sometimes even profited from. The tradeoff of DIY is time and learning curve. Lots of quality places (and crap shops) long ago closed up, moved on, retired even. Many also assumed VHS conversion was temporary, over by the 2010s. The 08-09 recession wiped out quite a few businesses as well. Most were VHS-to-DVD in those days, not other formats, so waiting was actually a good thing for many, in terms of quality. Lots of folks are redoing shoddy 2000s (and even 2010s) work these days.. |
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And yeah, it's some random math haha, but I still feel like even with proper math, it might work now.... maybe the numbers did not work when they decided to retire (saturation of market), but now that 2nd hand gear is dying, there might be a place for new units again, specially from companies who already have the know-how... Quote:
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Use case is that I do archival of concert footage for several fan organizations. A few hundred master tapes a year at this point. Here's the current state of things: https://twitter.com/nicholasserra/st...62398143111174 But i'm at the point where I'm buying duplicates of gear and needing refurb on stuff just for piece of mind. Quote:
The other main frustration I have is lack of repair documentation. Even from enthusiasts. I know some folks consider that trade secrets. But right now NOBODY seems to be advertising repairs on these, so I wish people would just let this information free. Share the knowledge. Smurf I know you were working on some kind of tbc1000 guide. Hope that's still in the works. Quote:
So is it helping them, or just adding confusion? Or should the response always be "If you're not ready to drop 3k on gear you need to call a professional." Maybe. But then again, who's even offering these services? Seems like a no-win for the average person who wants to figure out how to do this but doesn't have deep pockets. Maybe that's just where we are now. Tape digitization is now a game where, unless you're building out a serious rig, it's not worth even looking into. |
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IMHO, It does not really take deep pockets, if your tapes are acceptable and you want "something" to watch for nostalgia and memories, not doing some archival (i.e not your case with concert archival) then do it without a TBC. You won't digitize a tape for less than 10€ here. if you have 30+, 300€, so just buy good VCR and capture card (+ maybe TBCish dvd recorder), use it, sell. When you sell, if you are unlucky and don't sell for what you bought for, you will still lose less than those 300€! If you are lucky you might even sell for more than what you paid! Honestly, "buy it, use it, sell it" (quoted from LS) is like digitizing your tapes for free (or for a very cheap price, if you sell a bit cheaper than what you paid). If you have less than 20 tapes, and 0 knowledge, and don't care about learning for the fun of it, then don't even bother (imho). Quote:
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It never was. The "average person" was too lazy to read, too cheap. Remember, I've been around since before we had viable digital transfer methods. Years ago, capture cards were just as expensive as TBCs (which cost less then than now), VCRs have never really changed price ranges (then new, now non-refurb'd used, though somtimes gambles). Back then, you had to have a powerful computer, not some cheap POS Celeron. So ... no. The status quo is unchanged. DIYers, hobbyists, semi-pro, pro. Not John Q. Dumfuk. But also realize to even have the notion to post on VH/here/wherever, puts you in the non-"normal" category. The demographic of these sites isn't Jane Bucktooth, it's Jane Serious, who wants to do video. Youtube is where you find Donald Duh and Barbie Braindead, spending $2 on Wish because some "little weird" doofus told them gullible BS. The problem with John Q's site (Youtube, Twitter) has always been when smart people start to get stupid advice. Quote:
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Just a follow-up post for the custom cable for the TBC-1000 bypass I mentioned earlier. I recently made more for a member on here and just wanted to add a picture.
One cable is coming from the S-VHS player and the other is going straight to my capture card. This lets you bypass the distribution amp for those concerned about noise or that don't want to replace all of those capacitors on the amp board. P.S. this is before I tightened down the heat shrink, so forgive the aesthetics. :cool: |
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To go a step further, you could exchange the switch mode regulator with a linear one. Again, less noise. If you are a nerd like me and just want to see how good you can get your recordings, the cables are high quality for that reason. And if you spent enough money to have a FFTBC, you obviously care enough about the final product more than a standard user. |
The distribution amp was design for multiple VCR recording from a single source back in the day, It doesn't have any purpose for capturing and should be removed.
There is a guy by the name of ccbradley over at vhelp who did a nice restoration and modification of the device: https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/...light=tbc-1000 |
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You could take it out IF you a.) know how to design a new small PCB to receive the incoming 12V ( I would add a fuse while you're at it) to replace it with. or b.) are using a broken unit for parts-only and need it to Frankenstein a fully working one. I chose to keep mine fully stock but bypass the board with a custom cable. |
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(I also recapp/refurbish TBCs if anyone needs that either). But there are countless ways you can reconfigure your output permanently. Another member on here is simply adding new holes in his case for direct output. I'm not a fan of that kind of modification unless it is the only option to truly enhance the performance beyond the way it was originally made, but to each his own, I guess. |
Just an aside, and maybe it's been tried, but it has been tested to just terminate off the unused outputs on this distribution amp hasn't it?
For the $2 it costs for a bag of 75Ω terminators, it might prevent these issues that are being encountered? With BNC/Coax, it's a deep topic. BNC with properly specified coaxial cable will yield better results, coaxial cable is a whole topic in itself, your transmission loss and reflection are far more neatly controlled with properly specified coaxial connections. Professional gear will generally use coax unless it's for interfacing with a specific signal type or domestic equipment. However, at VHS quality, shortish cable runs and there's nothing inherently wrong with using S-Video, it won't be a startling difference. If you really do want to push for ultimate quality, there is a small argument that coaxial may be better in this application, but you'll need to squint to see it. Low-quality S-Video cables are annoying, poor quality coaxial connections will send you round the twist trying to work out where the problem is. Coaxial cable is complicated, and there's plenty of low-quality junk out there, it 'should' be the preferred interconnect but it's not feasible with a lot of equipment, and in reality, it makes little to no difference for DIY efforts from VHS sources. If long cable runs are your thing, then naturally coaxial is the way to go. Then once you've done that, you can get into matching stages, we have some equipment that's matched, but that's total overkill here, and I'm not convinced it makes a difference, but if you want to squeeze out the nth degree of quality it's something that you could (theoritcally) consider... If you've got time on your hands, and literally nothing better to do with your time :P |
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From my testing, the output brightness is no different using vs bypassing the amp board, so I don't think it's a termination issue. I would imagine it is terminated 75ohm to ground on the processing board before being amplified. I'm not an electronics engineer, and I don't have the service manual schematic but that would make the most sense to me. |
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