Wheres the best source to purchase capacitors?
 

im about to deal with the ole "dim display" on the AG-5710 and have the board in hand, i saw on a previous thread, which capacitors to focus on, C1,24,26,28,and 29, i want to get those ordered up, online of course no Radio Shacks anymore, to run to, does anyone have good experience in a website that sells these electrolyctics , , and if you could share a link here, i would be forever grateful for that
thanks
David

I guess you're in the US?

UK, RS Components is pricey but they can usually supply to your door within 24 hours, huge catalogue etc.

Stateside, someone like Farnell/Element14/Newark or whichever brand name they use in the US is probably a good bet. Won't be the cheapest but should be assured quality and a massive selection.

As these are non-critical parts, just simple electrolytic selection boxes eBay/Amazon are probably good enough but it's a gamble as to whether that's quoted with probably turn up or if they'll have the values you need.

Thank you RobustReviews , i headed straight over to Newark , after you mentioned them to me, and OMG i punch in 100uf 16v and i have a choice of 89 different ones, of just the 100uf 16v, , has anyone already purchased these electrolyctics, and have a list from their purchase, that can easily be just duplicated to order? if not, ill make the eanie meanie minie moe, selection and if im successful with fixing the dim display i will post my purchase of which ones i chose from Newark,
thanks again for the lead.. :wink2:
David

Other US sources are Digikey and Mouser.

Digikey and Mouser, Avoid eBay and Amazon, a lot of fakes.

Sage advice, but in this case and this application or isn't especially critical. I keep trays of those little hobby box specials for general running repairs and 'fiddling'.

Parts can get pricy, a lot of the time a little generic part fits the bill perfectly.

If you're unsure though, buy on provenance.

The inventories or these 'big boys' is staggering, and I forgot about Mouser and Digikey who are equally huge.

now that im shopping and found the sources thanks to your leads you have provided me in this thread, im now also realising i have to specify dimensions of the capacitor as well, i can not select a 100uf 16v, i also have to choose what diameter, and lead spacing, and height of product, and im in US, not familar with everything being called out in mm (millimeters) i do have a micrometer, ill try to figure it out, unless i can get the original specs from the Panasonics eg: KA85C wish they called it out in fractions of inches, back to the conversion tables !!:hmm:

In this case Panasonic KA series (which general purpose and low profile/small) are still made actually. So, if that's what the original was you can get a new KA series on most of these stores with the same voltage and capacitance and it should fit fine (or use one step higher voltage and/or GA series which is similar but higher temp tolerance if you want extra long life). I don't know how the space is but if they used low profile capacitors I guess space at that spot may be a bit tight (though you of course have more leeway to bend legs/tight fit than a machine at a factory).

Most other series used in there are probably going to be discontinued and will have some suggested replacement from the vendor, though it can be a bit clunky to find those "product discontinued lists" sometimes, and not always 100% intutive to decode the series from the capacitor names (though at least in panasonics service manuals the caps and most other electronics tend to the exact number for the part itself that can be looked up rather than an internal reference code like for many other vendors which can be very hard to translate to a part number.)

For general purpose capacitors it's new enough that most offerings for one capacitance/voltage pair is going to have similar sizes for the standard models, lead space and size is mainly important to check if there is little space, or if it's a large cap sitting flush to the pcb, low profile or other special type, or if it's 80s stuff or earlier when the parts where significantly larger size per capacitance/voltage. If it's KA series those are low profile so would have to check for space in that case. EDIT: Or if it's surface mount components of course.

If it's a common recap, maybe someone has a list/suggestion of what they used as well.

At least at Newark i did find the KA series, i did find an MA series,(for substitutions) that seem to conform to the same sizes i am replacing, here is the list i came up with for the dim display electrolytics ,

KA series:

c1 10uf 50v
Manufacturer Part No: ECE-A1HKA100
Newark Part No.: 55T0241

c24 100uf 16v
Manufacturer Part No: ECE-A1CKA101
Newark Part No.: 55T0214 ( out of stock until 2023)
substitue:
Manufacturer Part No: ECA-1CM101
Newark Part No.: 96K9149

c26 220 uf 6.3v
Manufacturer Part No: ECE-A0JKA221
Newark Part No.: 55T0194

C28 10uf 35v
Manufacturer Part No: ECE-A1VKA100
Newark Part No.: 55T0257

C29 22uf 16V
Manufacturer Part No: ECE-A1CKA220
Newark Part No.: 55T0215 (out of stock until 2023)
substitue:
Manufacturer Part No: ECA1CM220
Newark Part No.: 62W6110

thanks for all the help if anything here jumps out at you, as being wrong, please dont hesitate to let me know!!
David

If ordering substitutes for the original part number make sure it physically fits.as well as having similar ratings.

I've used Mouser and DigiKey of late, Newark years ago after Allied Radio went away. Keep an eye for minimum order requirements and shipping costs. In some cases it was cheaper to buy a few extras to take advantage of a quantity price break; e.g., I needed only 8 but it was cheaper to buy 10, although that may not apply to smaller projects.

I'd only buy from DigiKey.

Thank you Lordsmurf,i got in a hurry and i have already place the order from Newark, and because i didnt make the minimum $150 . purchase (for free shipping) i had to pay their $9.99 shipping, im in US, and should get them within a week, (fingers crossed) i did buy my flat cable ribbon (jumper cable)from Mouser , but i havent made any purchases from Digakey yet, ill set up an account with them, thank you for your advice Lordsmurf, i may find out the hard way , that you were right!! ill let you know, :hmm:

David

I've never used Mouser or Newark (at least not that I can remember), but others here mention all 3 in the same breath. It was mostly a case of needing something, finding DigiKey, then never needing anybody else.

I use mostly Digikey, I've used Mouser once or twice but Digikey interface and parts selection process is easy to navigate compared to Mouser, As far as parts availability it seems they have the same stock, I won't be surprised if they source their parts from the same warehouses across the globe. I like this business model, Rockauto uses the same concept for cars parts and I've been using them for years now, returning or exchanging wrong or defective items is always at Rockauto's cost.

Rock Auto is good - I've been happy using them.

My experience with Mouser has been good, and they have been quick, but it has been a year or so since I have need to order stuff. Subjectively DigiKey may have been a bit higher final cost for the items I have ordered. Newark was higher as well and not as "friendly" for hobbiest type orders.

Of late shipping is the killer cost. USPS is no bargain and it, FedEx and UPS is only sort of OK if one can use the ebay rates. That is the big advantage to Amazon Prime for things you dare buy there.

But parts cost is nothing compared to the labor one invests, so go with what feels right to you.