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Video mixer is PAL, not NTSC?
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About 2 or 3 months ago, I bought a Panasonic WJ-AVE5 digital video mixer, as it has a TBC, and is a frame sync. It handles problem tapes as well as the Panasonic DMR's, but without blowing out the whites. The problem it has though, is it's far too dark, and oversaturated to the point dark colors look flat without any shade differences. And... the entire frame seems to want to move up and down on it's own, for 10 to 30 seconds at a time, even if just a DVD player is connected. I was about to take it in and get it recapped, as threads on Reddit and scanlines.xyz suggest most problems are tied to the caps.
But... I just downloaded the manual, and low and behold, it says, Quote:
https://scanlines.xyz/t/panasonic-wj...o-color/722/26 |
I would not expect a NTSC VCR signal to play properly through a PAL mixer. There are different frame rates and color information encoding for starters. Some gear might auto-detect the input standard and behave accordingly but per the manual the WJ-AVE5 appears to be PAL only.
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Most mixers are hardwired to a single format, and you rarely find non pure-PAL or pure-NTSC mixers. So no "weird" one-country formats, nor really much for SECAM.
Beyond that, mixer "TBCs" are very week, often doing nothing. I discussed some of the reasoning (90s semiconductor instruction set room limitations, limited low-bandwidth RAM) in a post yesterday, in another topic. Mixers are the "also has" devices. Many are not even frame TBC, but weak line implementations, and it bakes in frame errors. NTSC mixers also have a bad habit of messing with IRE/luma, resulting in brighter/gained video. Like other DataVideo gear, the SE-500 had generations, and 90%+ of them look terrible. That last 10% isn't great either, but does have some niche tearing-type uses. If mixers were merely "cheap TBCs", I'd be using them. The Panasonic WJ-AVE5 is mostly still valued because digital artists ("glitch video") like them. This forum has a lot of glitch video artists. But glitching makes down-chain high-quality TBCs more yet. So the VCR/camera/generator > glitch mixers > high quality Cypress TBC > quality recording/playing. Some of these glitch artists do live work, like DJs, so there is no room for failure, they're getting paid for putting on a show. I'd suggest selling it back to that community, and getting a good $100-range Mackie/Tapco for audio mixing. |
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As for the audio mixer... I simply wanted something to bring the input down to 0dB before digitizing... it was +10 on it's own. And although I can get a mixer with a VU meter, the meters on the ones I was looking at suck. This one's far better. |
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TBCs really existed in 3 forms. - pro gear for pro sources (rackmount "pizza box" units) - consumer hobby gear for consumer sources (plastic/resin TBCs, like AVT-8710s) - and then a middle ground, where (essentially) the plastic TBC innards were put into better metal/vented cases (BV, 1T, TBC-1000, etc), sometimes with rackmount options. That middle is where high-use low-end pros, or high-end hobbyists, existed. Yes, that included wedding videographers, but most of them did not rely on mixers as TBCs. It should come as no surprise that these better-constructed "pro not pro, consumer not consumer" TBCs have lasted, whereas the plastic units have largely failed permanently, and the abused/overused (and not useful anyway) pro rackmount units were finally trashed/recycled in the past decade. I still remember when 9 out of 10 TBCs on eBay were the pro junk boxes for under $50. There used to be a ton of posts about those things, but that eventually ceased, good riddance. But that did help artificially lower prices for the better TBCs for about 5 years there, during/post GFC ('08-09 recession). Quite a few members here got sweet deal on TBC-1000s for $250 range pricing, some ~15 years ago. We'd often post about deals here and at VH. Don't expect that to ever happen again, no more than you'll find $1 per gallon gas pricing, or 25 cent per can Coca Cola, etc. Quote:
And there are multiple forms of TBC, each with a distinct purpose. You can certainly try these low-end weaker non-TBCs that "also have" unspecific TBCs inside. But it may not work for you, and for the reasons stated. What I get tired of reading is proclamations that "XYZ is a TBC, everybody should buy it instead of actual TBCs!" because that's just ignorant. And no, you did not do that here. But others certainly have, especially on Youtube, where bad/clueless video advice is an epidemic. Then again, that dumb advice is what brings new members to this site, because those newbies are confused why the bad Youtube advice didn't work for them. Quote:
I'd just rather have a new $100 Mackie/Tapco audio mixer with options, rather than a ~$100 range used video mixer that may have problems since it wasn't designed for pure audio. Noise and distortion is my concern. VHS audio is already fragile fidelity, it ruins with the smallest amount of harm. |
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It's no different than a doctor seeing 3 different patients with "the same" affliction, but prescribing 3 different medications. It's not because the doctor is bad/contradictory/"flip flopper"/etc, but because each patient had different nuanced needs. None of the patients could have self-prescribed medication (they be dumb to do so), and that's why the doctor helped them acquire what they needed for their exact situation. So, for example, if a person has 5 tapes, SP mode, directly from a 90s era camcorder, he/she will likely be fine with ES10/15 as "sorta kinda TBC". Still maybe not without minor issues, but overall "fine". If you have 100+ random tapes, unknown specs, you're into self-punishment to attempt such a project with budget/junk gear. And there are middle options for other quantities/specs/formats of tapes. Quote:
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As for cleaning it though... it merely took a bunch of up and down on the sliders to fix any oxidation. I could buy DeoxIT, but it's not cheap, and you need to follow it up with a lubricant... even more expensive. |
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That was Woodstock '99, right? I had a chance to go to that, but stayed home to work. Wrong decision. :depressed: Proper cleaning generally means full dismantled, maybe parts submersion. It just takes time. That's often part of what I do to refurb gear. I have full cleaning kits made for car detailing, electronics cleaning, etc. I have OEM matching/near-matching paints for touch-ups, etc. My refurb process isn't just cleaning, but rather I clean everything since I have to strip it down as part of the repair/rebuild process. People (myself incuded) want proper function, clean, like-new -- not some nasty broken used junk. |
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I would have loved to have gone, but I wouldn't have been able to afford it, especially coming from the West Coast. It's like in '83 when buddies went down the coast for the US Festival... I was jealous of that. :depressed: Quote:
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That was my issue as well, upstate NY was forever away, the trip would have been at least a week.
I had friends that drove there, and friends that tried. The irony is the friends that arrived fine went in a late-80s beater, and the friends that had car trouble were in a mid-90s Lexus or something. I've always wondered if my car would have been fine for that trip. Had I gone, they would have made me drive, and/or wanted to drive my car. But nope! Not happening! Why? After years or driving used, I had finally bought a brand new car not long before. It still looked new, smelled new, everything was clean. There was no way in hell I was going to let it be junked out from some roadtrip. They asked, begged, a few acted pissy, so I didn't want to deal with it. But, in hindsight, it was only a car. I missed a unique experience. They often say you regret things you didn't do, not things you did. Yep, true. One couple (they later married) was in the mud, and was photographed. I have that news photo somewhere. |
Sorry... I missed a point...
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So... if out of 30 tapes, only the first 3 are 2nd gen dubs from my friend's sources, then the next 27 are 1st gen, and neither the DMR or the mixer has issues with any of them, then I'm using whatever I have that works best for my situation. You need to understand that although pretty much everyone in the community would love to buy proper gear, not everyone has $2K+ to fork out for a TBC. You PM'd me with 2 offers... $2750 USD for a "BV10", saying it's as good as a DataVideo ("excellent"), but then you just said the mixer was no better than the DataVideo just a few comments above in this thread. If that's the case, why would I spend $3870 CAD on the BV10? Even the 'cheaper' $1750 USD model you quoted... that's $2560 CAD. And both would still need shipping, and duty once it gets here. I simply cannot afford it... does that mean I should scrap my project altogether? No. I'll do the best I can with what I can afford. And so will anyone else in my situation. You simply need to understand this, and quit trying to upsell. Cheers.[/quote] |
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Sometimes "duct tape and chicken wire" methods work. Sometimes it backfires. I warn of the latter, and reiterate that the former is unlikely (though not impossible). The problem comes when people largely think they're always the exception rather than the rule/expectation. "I'll be fine." Some will, many won't. I can often tell when people insist on pushing forward with lower end gear, so I try to guide them as best I can. But I will also continue to mention the downsides of that methods (mostly for the benefit of future readers). Some people get all pissy that I keep pointing out the flaws in the method, but it's just being a good tech and troubleshooter. You can't ignore problems because others don't want to hear it. For the record, quality/transparent gear would not necessitate some of the hoops you're currently jumping through. Not potentiometer, not wildly off values, etc. Better gear "just work", while low-end gear requires excess work. A lot of people value there time, and just want to convert the video. Not have to customize, create, and fix tools just to be able to start doing the real task at hand. Video capture costs either - money - time -- and sanity/frustration Whatever you try to do, I'm here trying to help you do your best. Yes? :) |
It could be outputting some sort of hybrid output like PAL60 or NTSC 4.43 when fed a NTSC source.
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As for helping me out... by all means, I'm extremely grateful. The Pinnacle USB-510 has been a life changer... I can actually capture using VirtualDub again... and capture RAW. I prefer raw YUV, then edit any glitches, then output to HuffYUV. I couldn't capture raw in AmaRecTV, but it's the only thing that worked with the Hauppage cards in Windows 10. You said earlier that this is what happens when a person is new at analog video ingest.... I'm not sure where you got the idea that I'm new to this, as I already stated in another post that this project has been on again/off again since ~2006. I'm definitely not new to this... I just haven't been doing the best I could, such as adjusting the levels in the histogram before capturing. I mean, I started with an ATI 2006, converting hockey games. I seriously wish I still had it though. Side note on the Pinnacle though... when paired with the DMR-ES16, it's absolutely rock solid... absolutely no drops or inserts, even after a glitch in the tape. I told this to some guy on YouTube who made a comparison video with DMRs. but because he says in 'his' experience with the DMR's, there's 'always' a few inserts using VirtualDub. I told him I get absolutely none with this setup... no reply... he must think I'm bs'ing. I also added a fan to my ES16... the lid would get pretty hot without it, which is probably 1 of the reasons it can insert frames on it's own. Since adding the fan, I haven't seen inserts, or as many inserts by the ES16 on it's own... the chip is overheating. I used a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V PWM fan, and took the 5V from the capacitor directly behind the optical out port. I mounted the fan inside using hot glue, though I wanted to drill and mount with screws, but that would require pulling the board from the case first to avoid any metal filings shorting anything out. It's definitely running better though. |
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I get so many PMs that I don't always remember who's who, but that does sound familiar. Advice to hold off on a project is good general advice. But I don't necessarily like general advice, because of situations like this. I try to customize my advice for the exact situation. The consequence of that is sometimes people think I'm contradicting myself, but I'm certainly not. I still say the video mixer is bad here, but the ES16 is fine (better than nothing). If funds are tight, I would certainly suggest selling off the mixer for something better. Quote:
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It seems like you're doing fine here. And I do think you're having an unusually good experience. Keep it up! :congrats: |
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edit: adding a screenshot of my current capture... 45 minutes into it. No drops, no inserts, no jitter or disp issues. And it's the exact same on every single tape. I did have an issue with the Hauppauge, where it would insert a frame after 30 minutes, then again around 58 minutes... even in AmaRecTV, but I chalked that up to Win10 system issues. I now need to restart my capture though... :P edit 2: after a restart of the capture, the audio is at 48000 right from the start. |
What I always advise people is "enjoy it" and "don't fight it". Assuming you are correct, then you're having an unusually great experience. Most people have some % of issues.
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https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9bqcw902l84iyacjgwhbi/test.avi?rlkey=ciqxkoqlf2h3m7evba76dsxfs&st=84kqn9 84&dl=0 I'm assuming the ES10/15's are the same though(?). The only possible difference in machines, is all the guides I've read about using it for passthrough, they say only the rear input works when fixing flagging and tearing, but I found the front input also works on the ES16. Unless I misread the guides(?). I'm using the rear ports anyway. |
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