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The Audio II indicator is likely for the MTS decoder in the TV tuner. It likely lights up when SAP is available.
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I forgot to add in my first reply, that you may be onto something about the ambient temp. After I finished archiving all the VHS I needed to (probably about 7-8 years ago), I boxed it up and it's been sitting in the garage. In So CA it saw anywhere between low 30's some winters to well over 100 in summers. Maybe if it had been kept inside, fewer caps would have gone bad.
But yes, there is probably serious heat generated on the Y/C card, which likely makes the already poor SMD caps degrade quicker, and that's why that PCB is always a candidate for a re-cap. |
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Is your list of capacitors valid for a PAL Panasonic NV-FS200? I bought one really cheap, 35€+shipping and he´s in a real good condition, I think by the symptoms that I have a bad Y/C board caps, but I mostelly recap every cap on my restorations. Can I use your list for my VCR? It would help a lot, if not I have to make my own list viewing one by one on all boards. Thank You, Hugo do Carmo. |
I always try to find VCRs in near mint cosmetic condition and replace all power supply caps immediately. Low ESR caps are recommended for those switching power supplies but in real world all new caps (no matter Nichicon, Panasonic, Samwha, Samxon, Jamicon etc. if bought from trusted supplier like Mouser, Farnell, Elfa Distrelec an so on) are better then original anyway. If VCR does not work as it should after mechanics service and power supply recap, you have 2 options - the first is to keep it for parts (as I do, because I have no health to mess with them) or make a full service. Full recap is not panacea, do not even start, if you do not know what you are doing and have no all necessary calibration tools.
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Thank You radiokom.
It´s not my first time on full recapping a VCR, I´m not a pro but I´m a guy with a lot of pacience, I restored before a few hard to restore JVC Hi-Fi boards before, full of leaking crap from surface mounted capacitors, and till today I´ve been allways succedded, I´m confident that I can recap this unit all the way. But you´re absolutelly right, the first thing to do is to recap the PSU! For sure! I have too a good knowledge on the panasonic mechs, they´re shared with some European Grundig Units, and I have done a few lol! Just one more thing, and I´m not affiliated with this stores, they ship worldwide and the have quality components too, retroamplis . com and banzaimusic . com, they´re five stars! Thank You all! Hugo do Carmo. |
The bad/marginal ESR and capacitance readings can be a bit tricky on the original through-hole panasonic caps because many of these AG1980's have sat for decades and it is pretty likely that the ESR and capacitance could improve some with actually using the machine as they sort of "re-form." Given that they are also the mini-caps, ESR tended to be a bit higher when they were new as well (due to less surface area inside). I'm not sure if the "new" versions of those use different electrolyte or other materials nowadays, but I would presume so. ESR meters do tend to point to marginal results for most mini versions of caps, but it's a bit hard to say when we don't exactly know what the ESR was like when it was new. I did some extensive recapping to a Betamax machine this week and all of the 10uf 16V 4x7mm caps read 10uf, but all 20 of those pulled had an ESR of 6, which is at least twice what you'd expect these days, but given that they were all so consistent, it does make me wonder what that series had for an ESR to begin with. Hard to say. Most of the 4x7mm were general purpose caps and didn't really need low ESR. The AG1980 would have had plenty of room to use full size capacitors (5x11mm) for just about everything, but they chose to use the smaller ones, probably somewhat due to cost savings, but also because there probably wasn't a significant performance difference in using larger caps which would have had lower ESR also.
SMTs are definitely all auto-replace on the TBC, the other SMTs aren't really used for playback. I will say I am a bit surprised that many of the power supply caps were reading marginal for you - generally those tend to actually test ok, but I do replace them anyway since ESR and capacitance aren't the only properties that keep electrical noise low in a power supply. Could be you had a higher hours unit too though maybe. I've not seen any other refurbishers (other than me) do routine full recaps to the power supplies on these. I'd be curious to see your spreadsheet if you don't mind posting! |
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The spreadsheet is not mine is from user i86time and it´s available on post #14. Thank You. |
Sounded like there was a measured ESR/capacitance for each original/pulled cap and that's what I was more interested in.
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Long-stored 1980
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Fun to find this thread. I just took my old 1980P out of storage to see if it still worked. Put in tape, after a pause it ejects. Looking to try the easy stuff. I know a “dirty” mode switch is often cited as a reason for tapes getting ejected after insertion. Took the bottom off and can see the switch. Im thinking I will spray deoxi D100 where ive drawn a crude arrow. Any tips about that? Any other simple things I could try?
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