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DVD recorders - JVC LOADING & Panasonic filters
One of the DVD recorders that I have is a Panasonic DMR-EZ27 with a digital turner. I looked up passthrough didn't find much. Would it be a good idea to run the siginal to that machine and than back in to the JVC recorder?
Right now I am running the sound through the AG1980 for everything...The reason I can filter it a little bit....Than remove the hiss once I get it on the PC..... On the Mono stuff, it is 2 tracks but both are same. I like moving sound in different speakers. I have a few tricks that I have used over the years to get mono tracks to a tricked up stereo format. However it is pain to do and it takes a long time, when you are dealing with 3 hours videos it is not worth it. A 5 minute song, yea it doesn't take that long..... Also if I make the disks longer on the Panasonic Machine 4 hours (I think that is the other mode) Would it remove some of those analog blocks. I know u think these DVD recorders are junk. I have recorded so much HD (source) to it and the picture is fine (granted it is letterboxed & not HD) However I don't have an HD recorder so this works for now. Never have a problem with it and the disks work on any machine. On this JVC recorder, it is used of course, for some reason it blanks itself out and goes in to Loading mode. Is the machine busted or can u get around it. I just recorded 30 minutes of a 3 hour tape and it crapped out on me. I just got this machine in and it has crapped out a few times already. The other recorder is broken the MV5, I thought I could fix it. The electronics are bad, I am not sure were the error is. The machine is in pieces as we speak. The DVD player can be transplanted if I ever needed to do that. That one was only $10. |
Passthrough was discussed in the course of other threads, it doesn't have a dedicated thread of its own. (There will, however, be a guide on this on the new site, at some point.)
Yes, "passthrough" because it passes through the machine, and the DVD recorder is not used as a DVD recorder. It's just being used as another filter device, sort of like a TBC. Re-creating fake stereo is still fake. I never bother with it. There's nothing inherently wrong with mono audio to me. Most of my favorite stuff mono. Even when stereo is used, it tends to be used poorly. The only good use of stereo that I know of readily is the song "Crazy Train" by Ozzy Osbourne, where several effects bounce between the speakers, and gives it a really unique sound. The 4-hour mode is not suggested at all. The ONLY exception would be the JVC series DVD recorders, the good models (DR-M10, DR-M100, etc -- LSI Logic chipset generation machines), where the recorded material is low on movement or is cartoon animation. On the JVC machines, the bitrate allocation on SP (2-hour) is the same as 4-hour (LP). On Panasonic machines, the allocation is too low, and you get a ton of blocks and noise. Don't believe the BS marketing hype on the side of the Panasonic boxes -- the four-hour mode is unacceptable and should be avoided at all costs. Some of this is mentioned already on the DVD recorder reviews page at http://www.digitalfaq.com/reviews/dvd-recorders.htm There are not any HD recorders at the moment, excluding proprietary DVR boxes from satellite or cable companies. "LOADING" is a generic error message, meaning that something is wrong with the disc or the unit. Be sure you're using Verbatim 16x DVD-R in it, or good 2x DVD-RW media. Anything else will be problematic, in most cases. Most DVD recorders are like this, refusing to work with subpar blanks. Beyond that, some of the earliest machines had faulty Chinese capacitors. This was not unique to JVC, many companies from the early 2000s ended up with the bad caps. My Panasonic ES10 had bad caps, too, as did an AMD motherboard. It's simply an issue of replacing the faulty caps. You'll need skills with a soldering. I don't have those skills, I had a friend at the local college A/V room do it for $25 plus parts ($5). Bad caps will be bulged and/or leaking, pretty easy to spot in the machine. It's a a cheap easy fix, but most people threw the machines in the trash, or sold them on eBay. Some auction sellers lied about the condition ("tested", but "as is"), others did not ("for parts"). I can create some documentation for this in a few weeks, if you need more on fixing a JVC "LOADING" error (replacing caps). |
Verbatim 16x DVD-R, that is what I am using. I just looked this problem up online and it was very common with these JVC machines, so common that they do a free repair, that was 4 or 5 years ago. Who knows???? I have to call JVC in the morning. I really want to use these filters...
If JVC will not repair them? Should I take them both to a repair shop? They tend to rip you off? HD recorders are out in Japan, and my friend the UK also has one. Why is it so late getting to the States...... HR-S7900U with this machine if I run my betamax through it will it use the TBC, cause right now it doesn't look like it is. The on-screen flashing is simply a matter of turning off on-screen display in the JVC menu In the menu for the VCR, I can't find anything that lets you turn off the screen display. |
Don't call JVC and ask them if they still fix it. "No" should not be a possible answer. Instead, tell JVC that you have one of the faulty JVC decks, and you need to get the free repair done on it. Then ask where to send it. I suggest further pressing your luck, and requesting that they send you a UPS or Fedex pre-paid slip to use for returning it for your free warranty repair, on the known factory-defective unit. These key phrases are important, and none of your questions allow for an answer of "no". If they do try to say it's no longer covered, simply and calmly state that no is not an acceptable answer and again repeat that you need JVC to honor their policies as it relates to repairing this machine. Ask to speak with supervisors continuously, as needed, if needed.
A generic repair shop won't know what to do. It's more likely they'd just break it. If you do anything other than send it to JVC, then it needs to be a self-repair with a soldering pen. (Or friend repair, as it was in my case.) I'm not aware of any Blu-ray HD recorders right now, outside of Japan. Even then, it appears to mostly be a typical Japanese gadget fad. Overly-aggressive mafia-like copyright Nazis (MPAA, studios) are why HD recorders are not available yet. They're so afraid you might record an HDTV show instead of buy the fancy overpriced Blu-ray discs months after the show's season ends. Or that you'll record your $5 pay-per-view instead of buying the expensive $25 Blu-ray release. I can understand the desire to profit from their artistic work -- but this desire to control how, where and when people view it has gotten to be ridiculous. And they are losing that war, albeit painfully slow. As you're noticing, it's now impeding technological growth (and the ability to use said technology for legitimate reasons). The actual name of the setting is "SUPERIMPOSE". Refer to the guide on playback hardware, for information JVC S-VHS VCRs and settings: http://www.digitalfaq.com/guides/vid...k-hardware.htm |
I was actually going to call them for the address and drive the machines down to the location. It is harder to say no in person. I think they have one, less than an hour from me....LOL
Ok, I saw superimpose and have that turned on... I actually tried to get one of those HD recorders from Japan, I had to have it shipped to someone in Japan than to me. I have no friends in Japan...LOL....They will not ship direct. I was not sure on the ones in the UK, if they would work. But HD is HD, they don't have PAL & NTSC with that machine, correct? My buddy has a region free NTSC & PAL HD recorder, he says it can record 5hours 15minutes XL quality with analogue as opposed to 1 hour on DVD. The Machine was over $1000 in Sterling I think... The blank disks are high rent. |
HD has PAL and NTSC.
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I called JVC, got sick of the computer menu, and ended up calling a local repair guy. I met him at a coffee shop, he replaced the caps. However the problem I think is in the DVD burner itself. I still have the same problems. The person who shipped it left a disk in the machine. That is bad news. I also found a disk log in the menu, this machine has done a lot of recordings. Inside the machine we found out that some of the caps were already replaced. However the machine only crashes when it is recording. It happens at random times. My guess is it has nothing to with circuits. What I am thinking is that when it is burning the dvd, it skips or misses the burn, from a very used lens or whatever burns the data. It can't read what it is writing kind of thing. The JVC machines doesn't know how to handle this so it goes in to loading mode. I gave him the MV5 to repair. However I am calling him in a few hours to get it back. Just going to pull out the DVD burner out of that machine and put it in the MV1. Both machines have almost the same circuit work on the inside....
Next I watched what I was able to record again. It does have those blocks in the screen. Cause I was hitting pause. I do have an HDMI cable running to the TV. S-Video I more than likely would not see them. Just on normal playback with no recording, I think those filters in the MV1 are active. For sure notice a major difference on the TV. With the beta tapes it plays them a lot better. However the Panasonic machine on some of the VHS tapes is miles better. It almost seems like those filter in the MV1 kill the TBC. On some of the tapes through the JVC VCR to the Panasonic machine it looks almost like digital quality. However that same tape through the MV1, looks sometimes like a normal VCR picture...I don't know.... Are their any DVD recorders that record almost a perfect copy of what is being played on the screen? |
Sometimes the bad cap issue went unaddressed for too long, and the problems spread to the mainboard. I don't really understand how that happens -- I'm not an electronics engineer, but I can only assume unregulated power or dirty power -- or whatever it is -- running loose in the system can't be good for it.
Then again, LOADING is so generic. It may very well be the burner having gone bad on you. Replacing is may work fine for you. Indeed, they share many parts. The Toshiba XS series machines (XS32,XS34,XS35) -- long since gone from the market -- had a hard drive, plus some special filter settings. It was less aggressive than the JVC filters (and did not fix all of the chroma errors), but it's probably as close to "perfect copy of the tape" as you can get. Of course, a perfect copy of the tape will have some/all of the flaws of the original, and is why the JVC is better. I would agree the Panasonic has a "digital quality" look to it, but that's not necessarily a good thing. It's over processed. The JVC machines have playback filters, too -- yes. On some models, it can be disabled. My Philips and Toshiba DVD players have similar de-block or "MPEG noise" filters. |
NOTE:
I moved a bunch of posts into this new thread. It was not even close to the JVC VCR topic anymore. It turned into a new DVD recorder topic about JVC and Panasonic decks. Thanks. :) |
It took me a while to find this.
I think I am just going to get a new unit from the other post. JVC SR-MV45US (---- It is only $400 on Amazon Are there any issues with this machine ? Will this thing work for cleaning up these tapes? Will it last for lots of hours of recording? Swapping the DVD drives didn't work. It wouldn't read the drive, however I could open & close the drive. I even swapped the power supply units. I think I fried something, cause I no longer get any picture coming in. It is really hard trouble shooting this stuff, however I learned a lot in the last two days, basically how to pull one of these machines apart and put it back together. I made 1 or 2 mistakes that may have wrecked the unit. However it was broken anyway. The tech guy who did the cap work, he is the one who told me to swap out the power units (I didn't like the idea, but I tried it anyway). He was also trying to get money out of me. I basically gave him $40 for his time (I felt bad for the guy), however he was not worth 50 cents. I had to meet him in a coffee shop. The owners got pissed when he was out with his sodering iron. He told me he had a TV, nope nothing. He wanted like $250 for his repair work. I said look, we can't even test this out with no TV. He was reading stuff off his online manual to fix what was wrong. How could he even tell... He going by old case logs....He was like leave me a deposit. Here take the other machine and fix it, than we will talk... Than he wanted to follow me to my house, and he invited some guy from the coffee shop to come with him. At that point, I told him I had to go to work... I had to pick up my other machine today. He says meet him at best buy, I get there he is at some bar. I am done with him......... I got the machine back, he wanted money again for talking a look at it and to tell me the power supply had missing parts...I was like look, it is your job to fix it and that is what you get paid for...Than he was like give me another $40 and I'll swap the DVD drives at least you will know it was done professionally...I was like buddy, what are you talking about, I can do this in 10 minutes..... It is just hard to find these things new, used you have no idea how many hours of recordings the thing has done. As you know the more you run these recorders the less life they have. MV1 had a suite against it (that is what he coffee shop repair guy said), plus the machine is from 2004. That is 6 years of use. I wish I would have read up on this, it was one of the machines you listed as really good for this type of work. I am sure it is. I may get another 1 from ebay. Now I got to deal with the person who sold me this broken unit....Fun... |
I just bought another MV5 on ebay...This one was only $5. He says the VCR is broken but the DVD player works.....I could care less about the VCR....I have enough parts to now build one of these machines.......
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Some early versions of the JVC DR-MV45US had the same faulty caps, but latter manufactured units (much like the DR-M100S) seem to be flawless. At this point in time, new units would surely be from latter production lines. It's a pro deck, too.
It's a great unit. The one you're referring to is at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B000OH7RF0 -- and use this link, if you do buy it. And now, for a rant... Like I said, those local "repair guys" aren't worth two cents in most cases. They pretend to know about the equipment, but they hover over manuals. Hell, I could do that! You could do that! These charlatans have no experience, I'd just assume trust a high school kid from electronics class. JVC, JVC authorized service centers, or local broadcasting instructors at college tend to be the ONLY people I trust with these items. I could rant all day about stupid people and stupid businesses, when it comes to computers, electronics and media. Reading it online, reading a manual, taking a class, buying a gadget -- these things do not make one an expert. I'm sure you know this, but they sure don't! I ripped a service just last night: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/show...x240-1950.html down in post #7 Some pansies have insisted this is "unprofessional", but I'm quite frankly tired of being undercut in price by people who don't know what the hell they're doing. You'd be amazed at all the butcher jobs we get, having to fix shoddy work by people who didn't know anything about video, photo, print or web. They need to go mop floors or flip burgers, leave the professional work to the professionals. Anyway.... You made the smart move, leaving the guy in the coffee shop. I don't know about dragging shady characters to my house. There was no lawsuit against JVC, that guy is full of BS. JVC pre-empted any action by offering free repairs for an unspecified amount of time (and to date, they almost never say no). The DR-MV1S was manufactured in mid/late 2004, but they were slow to market back then. Plus JVC was more expensive than the lower-priced crap of the time, and sold in smaller volume, in fewer stores. (Toshiba was very much the same, by the way!) Odds are you have a unit sold in early 2005. And even then, DVD recorders proved "too hard" for the masses -- reading is a difficult skill for some, it seems -- so many ended up unused, or used simply as DVD players. |
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Maybe I should get into the DVD recorder buy & resale business? (Nah, doing enough as it is!) Let me know how it goes. :) |
http://stores.ebay.com/jaksales
You can buy like 20 broken things from this guy for like nothing.....He is local to you.....I don't know.... |
New post from today about JVC and LOADING: http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/show...-dvd-2008.html
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Got the DVD recorder today and it works fine.
What mode should I record in? The 2 hour 30 minute mode? It doesn't seen to have the analog blocks... Also with these machines you can't delete the recording...Is that correct... The panasonic passthrough didn't work, the picture had small black dots in it. The JVC vcr is better than the AG1980, it is not even close. The panasonic picture on the screen seems to be a tad bit larger than the JVC. I have 1 tape that plays bad in the JVC so it needs to be played on the AG1980. As far as sound goes, the JVC VCR cleans it up pretty good. Many tapes on the AG just sound terrible. I know you said to not use video calibration, however I had a tape with a bad sound track, I tried everything, finally turned on video cal and it cleaned it right up. |
The 2.5 hours setting uses 720x480 with a low bitrate in the 4500-5000k VBR range. Not good. There are blocks. Remember that the JVC also does playback NR (deblock, specifically), so viewing the discs on the same JVC may not be the most reliable way to test. View the discs in another player, or on the computer, to scan for errors.
The best settings -- called "cherry" settings by a few long-time members here -- are 1-hour XP mode (of course), and the 3-hour FR180 mode. Both of these offer "superbit" type quality, the best that an be expected, giving high bitrates to the allocated resolutions.
In case you've been reading elsewhere online ... Some years ago, there was a myth perpetuated in various online forums -- and even some more respected sites, thanks to authors with no actual knowledge, no first-hand experience, and poor references -- that 352x480 was insufficient to capture all the "detail" in VHS or TV receptions. However, the idea that resolution is "lost" at 352x480, when the source is homemade video or TV recordings, is more or less imagined -- a psychological issue. Many times the arguments I saw on other sites got downright ridiculous. I did a lot of research into this topic, and found that some devices captured poorly at 352x480, and some softwares resized badly to 352x480. So it was not the resolution, bu rather the hardware/software with the problem. I would not that this JVC does NOT have such issues. At most, the LSI+JVC DNR system may soften some areas of the video, and some people confuse loss of noise to be loss of detail. It's not perfect -- sometimes it does slightly soften by a few pixels -- but more often it's legitimate noise removal. I'll also note that this myth seems to have died down in recent years, as always happens to stupid video/photo myths. It was really bad around 2003-2005, a time frame that (by no coincidence!) the market was saturated by the aforementioned inferior-at-352 hardware and software. About the Panasonic AG-1980 S-VHS VCR
You won't get argument from me -- the JVC is better than the Panasonic. The 1980 excels as certain things, but the JVC is an overall better performer, and will almost always see more use. |
This JVC DVD player doesn't have 3 hour mode. 1 hour, 2hours (which actually goes to about 2:10) and 2 hour 32 minutes which I tested and it is 720x480 and 4 hour mode.
It is the best purchase I ever made in my life, $5 !!!! It may be the HDMI cable upconvert DVD players for playback. (I use 2 different ones) The JVC VCR picture is a lot cleaner. A lot of the noise is gone, extra trash in the picture, like color bleeding. I did a few DVD's with the Panasonic + JVC recorders and the quality is amazing..Near DVD..except for the blocks, but past 4 feet, you can't see them.... Two of my best tapes, don't play correct in the JVC VCR, when the TBC is marked on, the top of the picture is messed up. One of the recording is like my best one, the picture for VHS is perfect. What I did was played it back with the stabilizer on. I can't really see much difference, and the picture is mint. I went out and got an s-video cable from Radio Shack. The cable caused back micro dots in the picture. The cable was than returned. The lady at Radio Shack thought I was nuts..... |
What is the exact model of that machine? Does it not have any FR mode available? It may be one of the later-generation LG clones, and not one of the prized JVC models often talked about on this site and some others. Then again, if it cleans that much of the image, it can't be an LG (unless it's an LG based on LSI chipsets).
The JVC VCR should clean up the image, yep -- that's very typical. For those tapes where the TBC caused issues, try it without stabilizer -- basically turn off everything. Leave the static DNR in NORM or AUTO mode, not EDIT, SHARP or SOFT -- and that's it. See how it plays. Sometimes the stabilizer can cause image jitter (vertical jumping), so be careful with it. Monitor the video carefully. Sometimes those overpriced cables are worse than the cheap add-ins that came with the decks. I don't much care for Monster s-video cables, preferring the Philips cables from Lowe's or Walmart. |
MV5, it has FR mode which is 2h and 30 minutes per disk. It also has SP mode which on this machines runs 2h 10 minutes.
What kind of s-video cables should I get, still need a few more, with all the crap that I have hooked up... The bad cables were radio shack's brand..... |
FR150 is 2.5 hours. Try to change it to FR180 or another increment. The MV5 should be the same as the others, unless this unit you have is somehow modified.
Get the Philips cables from Lowe's or Walmart. Or if you're not in a rush, get these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B0002MQGK4 |
Ok, went to the menu and changed it to FR180....I'll Try it out, it only gave me 3 stars on the recording were it has 5 stars on the FR150 and SP mode.
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That star system is stupid -- ignore it. It's based off the false idea that higher resolution equates to higher quality. Not true at all. I sometimes doubt icons like this were designed by the video experts designing the machines, but by some GUI-happy video-no-nothing marketing goon making bad assumptions. For more examples of this, pick up a product manual -- they're notorious for being written in Engrish, having grandiose statements about the product, and having misinformation. If you're lucky, you'll get one of those books where conflicting information is in different pages/chapters. Fun, fun!
FR180 = 180 minutes = 3 hours |
I wish I was not like this...It is a form of compulsive disorder, it has to be, cause normal people are not this crazy...
My results: I recorded the same program using SP and FR180. I used 3 DVD players for the testing 1 - player was used with an s-video cable 2 - players were used with an HDMI cable I also mixed up the disks so I wouldn't know.... The FR180 mode, removes the blocks in the screen just about 100%, it is like they have been smoothed out. However every once in a while you can kind of see something that looks like a block. To do this you pause the recorder over and over.... Sometimes on the motion of an object, it creates a streak effect... Going from player to player watching the same events over and over. The quality is pretty close, however the detail in the SP picture is greater than FR180. With the SP picture you do get blocks, however they are not as bad as the Panasonic DVD recorder... The color seems to bleed more in FR180, the picture also blurs a bit more. The overall picture doesn't seem as bright..... The best way to explain the difference is like so: When u work on a photo and than save it to .jpg, the picture bleeds its colors out... When recording in SP the effect is far less than in FR180...FR180 bleeds like an .jpg picture which causes the overall picture to have more of a blur....It also can distort an object or figure in the video. The distortion amount is far greater than the SP mode. This took a while to set up, and I had to view the same frames from both DVD's right next to each other.... Now off to test out the XP mode..... |
XP mode....Also removes the blocks, overall that is what I wanted. The quality is pretty good also. Just going to have to burn through a ton of disks...
Question: If I record the video in XP, rip it to the PC, do my edits. I want the final DVD's to be at least 2 hours, and some of them I would like to use Dual Layer disks....In the end, I just don't want to have 5 million DVD's. What is going to happen to my XP recording when I merge to another XP recording and than burn it to a 2 hour disk...Will those Blocks show up...I am guesing not because they were not recorded in to the video.... I am off to try this out...XP mode seems to be the best..... |
For the above observations, are you using the Panasonic AG-1980P VCR with that JVC DVD recorder? If so, I know where the problem is, why you see a "softer" image in FR180.
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No only used the JVC VCR......
With the AG1980, I know it has soften to sharpen on the panel. (But what would be your reason) These were pretty intense tests that I did with the 3 different settings... Overall, The JVC recorder seems to be a little softer than the other DVD recorders I have used in the past. No Blocks in the screen using XP mode is MAJOR !!! Of late been doing XP recordings the quality is really good... |
The theoretical limits for VHS (when you incorporate Kell factor and some other resolution theories), it's often said that you need 720x480 to capture all of VHS signal to a DVD.
In practice, it's really not anywhere near there -- most of the "detail" you see at 720x480 sourced from a VHS tape is just excess signal noise, not actual picture. This is why some people accuse 352x480 of being "soft" -- the noise is gone, and the noise gave the false appearance of image detail. (There are also some devices that encode poorly to Half D1 352x480, but this JVC DVD recorder isn't one of those devices.) XP / FR60 and FR180 are basically the same quality, with the only difference being resolution; Half D1 352x480 vs Full D1 720x480. The bitrate allocation is near-identical, hence both giving best quality. SP is more compressed than either. SP is a more-compressed XP mode, being 720x480 too. Some of those other errors (color loss) I'd have to suggest are probably imagination more than anything else. The encoder hasn't changed anything here. Seeing blocks on 352x480 while pausing the video and looking for errors is a bit OCD. But being a test, I do the same thing! However, you can always find errors if you really loo for them. I could probably point out a dozen issues on the JVC decks (more from other brand decks) if I wanted to -- many of them being small or inconsequential. The XP mode version theoretically would have more blocks than the 352x480 version, as allocation is slightly less (~2%). XP is a good recording mode, you won't do wrong there. Worst issue is more discs, but discs are small. Even a serious collector can store thousands of DVDs in a relatively tiny shelf space or closet space! The default "0" setting on the sharp/soft slider on the AG-1980 is not neutral -- it's still sharpening. You have to slightly nudge it to the soft side to get it truer to neutral. This is one reason many owners suggest it's superior to other units -- and it's false. |
You are right just tested out the XP with the OCD method of pausing using the HDMI setup and you can see some blocks. However on normal play one can hardly see them, if at all. (Yes they are greater than 352x480)
I am guessing blocks are how the DVD recorders gathers the infomation and how it puts the picture together. One of the issues with 352x480 could be, I am using upconvert DVD players. When it gets converted up, maybe that is where u get the errors... With s-video you can hardly see any difference. HDMI is where u can see the details.. One of the goals is to be able to play these old VHS tapes (converted to DVD) on the new TV's and have the picture look fine for viewing. That has really been the hardest part and the main goal of this project. "Some of those other errors (color loss) I'd have to suggest are probably imagination more than anything else" That is not the case at all, was viewing both recording next to each other on the TV to test. (If I could have taken screen captures or pictures I would have) I would watch frames, really close than switch or would pause and watch the same frame next to each other. Trust me, it was not like I was missing any details.... |
MPEG-2 video is a matrix of blocks, with complex math determining how bitrate is distributed within blocks, between blocks, and temporally (if applicable). When bitrate is insufficient for the data, the edges of the block become more visible. Technically, the image is full of blocks in a perfect grid at all time. But with proper encoding, at a good bitrate, you never see them.
H.264 is popular because it is more granular, using blocks of different sizes and shapes. This helps with the quality, and with an added advantage of requiring lower bitrates. There have been attempts to create non-block type video formats, but I don't recall any of them succeeding. Honeycombs and fractals, for example. I think upconverting DVD players are terrible. Think about the economics of it, if nothing else. A $100-200 player is not going to have a better upscaler than the $1,000++ HDTV set. Many of the nicer ones even have tech based on Faroujda scaling. The HDTV has to scale everything to 1080p or 720p anyway. I prefer a component connection over HDMI, too, for SD DVD material. The HDMI "digitizes" it too much, in my experience -- I don't like that. For future-proofing videos, we're starting to invest time and resources into VHS on Blu-ray -- even if the format fails, as projected -- because of H.264. But for now, DVD-Video is still the best option, both in cost and time. You have a split-screen TV option? Going back to something in an older post in this thread... FR150 is still 720x480 and is VERY compressed. The changeover to 352x480 is either FR170 or FR175 (and I think it's 175 if I had to place a bet). You can test this yourself by recording a disc, and then analyzing the video recording in Gspot. |
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Ok, got a new S-Video cable at lowe's (RCA cable) tried it out......
This what I found by mistake.... (Using the Panasonic as a passthrough) I had 1 recording that I wanted to try it with. Forgot to switch it back for the next recording.... THIS IS WHY :D When I got to the next tape, the tape itself snapped. I than had to do VHS tape surgery. (I wasn't thinking about my setup) Since I was on the operating table. When I recorded the video, the picture seemed to be sharper. Completed the recording (3 disks XP mode) I wanted to than try the 352x480 method, so I pulled out the pass through, and found tracking lines at the bottom of the screen. I forgot this was the problem that I had before with this tape. (It shows up on the TV) (((((((the passthrough removed these lines...))))))) I ripped the file to the PC, and looked at file. The scan lines below the picture were gone. It was so good that it almost didn't even need to be cropped...Normally it looks like this....The bottom Pic is using the passthrough... Attachment 704 |
That must not be standard tape head noise then, but a timebase/sync error in the lower most portion of the image. Not common, but not impossible.
The ES10 doesn't have any masking. I can't imagine other models would either. The picture is shifted badly to the left, you'd want to re-shift it right in VirtualDub or another editor. |
Oh that shift is because I pasted the pics on a black boarder in mspaint. I just screen copied than cut the pics from my video player....so sorry......
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After further review the play has been reversed the fr180 or half d1 mode is worthless.....
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Went back and tried the 352x480, and it is not worth the trouble of trying to work with 1/2 D1 digital file. Because these broadcasts are very long decided to even skip the DVD method....Now just put everything on a hard drive and play the hard drive on the TV
Everything is recorded in XP mode than editted..... The problem with the re-issue has been the bitrates.. Without recoding the mpeg2 file.....That is a NO NO The video was recorded in 1 hour mode about 4.7 gigs...It get sloppy when u try to than merge it in to a 2 hour video..... |
Womble MPEG Video Wizard is what I suggest for editing MPEG files created on DVD recorders, including the JVC series machines. I work with such files near daily, and have no issues.
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Here is the problem that haven't figured out how to get around....Record 4 or 5 disks in XP mode....The quality is fine.....
It is about 4 hours worth of material or 3 hours 20 minutes.......Doesn't matter.... Want to take the 3 hours and 20 minutes and issue to a Duel Layer disk....Doesn't work.... Want to take the 4 hours of material and issue to 2 DVD's... How do u compress the mpeg file to fit when it is recorded in XP mode with out loss of quality.... No problems playing it from the hard drive the picture is fine and the bitrates can be as high as I want them... However would still like to put them on DVD for backup |
3.3 hours of content, at "XP mode" type bitrates, is too big for the disc. It would have to be re-encoded smaller, or it would require that less content be put to a single disc. About 1.75 hours of "XP mode" content is all that would fit a DVD+R DL. (And be sure to use Verbatim discs!)
I would generally not compress the homemade video again. I would either capture as lossless (or high bitrate I-frame MPEG-2) with a capture card and then encode that to MPEG-2 in MainConcept, or record on a DVD recorder to an FR mode that better suited the desired space use. FR70, for example, is not too bad (better than SP, not quite XP), and should fit the proposed two-disc DVD+R DL set. You could always just split the file into 60-minute pieces, and put that onto single-layer discs. Or 1 hour and 45 minute segments, on DVD+R DL discs. For "archival" use, however, I suggest single-layer discs. It really just comes down to math. |
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I checked FR170 and FR180, not a lot of difference between 180 and 160 bitrate wise, about 200 bitrates lower at 180. I don't know if that holds true with other JVC recorders. |
Just wanted to add a few comments myself to what's already been said.
Womble MPEG Video Wizard (or MPEG Video Wizard DVD) is the way to go for sure, I pretty much use the same workflow you are using and it makes life about 1000x easier -- it's frame accurate and it has an intuitive interface that doesn't take much getting used it. Cutting with it is incredibly easy and accurate, it has far from a sloppy editing interface. I work on a lot of old high-motion footage (wrestling mostly) and find that the sweet spot for minimizing macroblocks and maximizing disc space is right around FR-75/FR-80 on these recorders (I have a JVC DR-M100S). If your recorder supports that, I'd give that a shot and as was mentioned, at FR-80 you can get around 2 hrs and change of footage per DL disc. So your 3 hr and 20 minute shows can be split up as one DL and one SL disc and your four hour shows can be done as two DL discs. You can split them further into SL discs for archives and/or back up to an external drive. You may have to split cells using VOB-blanker to get the layer break in right on the DL discs, as you will be pushing the maximum capacity of the disc, although that is pretty easy. Burn it with imgBurn of course. Based on your earlier comments on the quality of the recording -- not sure how interested you are in purchasing new equipment or VCRs, but have you considered the SignVideo DR-1000 detailer? If you feel your captures look a little soft on output to DVD, a device like that will give you a much smaller range to tweak it with. I tread lightly with mine, but I find it gives that extra high-frequency look I prefer in my video, without causing mosquito noise or macroblocking. |
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