The "jitter" that I see appears to be interlace being deinterlaced, with line jumping from a poor upscale. Proper capture is interlaced 720x480 (or x576 PAL).

Never use external hubs for capture cards. Use the computer ports.

To eliminate Huffyuv as a variables, for now capture using Lagarith.

1. Plugging the card directly into my PC case didn't help either, the only other ports are on the back of my system, which are very impractical to reach.

2. Yes, the upscale was terrible, I shouldn't have done that. However, I swear to god that the raw AVI file has the jitter in it, it shows up during capture. I don't know how to show it to you because the file size is too big to put here, YouTube screwed me over and it didn't show up in the video.

3. Where do I go to acquire Lagarith?

Front ports are rarely good, using cheap case wiring. Motherboard ports best. Yes, not easy, hence why case quality matters for systems. A bad USB port has problems with printers, HDDs, capture cards, etc. Sometimes quality external hub directly to motherboard port will work well enough. Hub to case is actually double hubbing.

You can attach tiny lossless to posts, 99mb max. Or encode to interlaced MPEG for longer runs. For now, a tiny piece is all that's needed. VirtualDub stream copy a few seconds.

Lagarith = https://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html

I'm actually very new to VirtualDub so I don't really know what I'm doing. I don't know if I have the wrong settings enabled or what, but here is a short 3 second excerpt of what was captured by the Hauppauge device in raw AVI, this is still the original capture file, no edits, no upscales, nothing, or at least, not that I'm aware of.

Also, thanks for the information about USB ports on the front of cases, I'll take note of that, I actually ordered a far better Monoprice hub that I'll plug into my motherboard USB 3 ports instead, I'm getting rid of my cheap Amazon Basics hub, it was really causing irritating problems by this point, and I'd been double hubbing for a long time without knowing it.

There's no jitter in the AVI. As suspected, that was a bad upsize on deinterlaced footage. Line hopping is an issue of upscale.

But what does exist here is some sort of phantom partial frame. That could be copy protection. Or it may be Win10 issues. Contact member BarrytheCrab, ask for his input in this thread, as he's run into Win10 Hauppauge problems recently. I think this is what he saw as well. While the card is fine, Win10 keeps changing. When this card doesn't work well, odds are you won't find any card that does. This is why dedicated systems are suggested (WinXP and Win7 best), if not dual booting (hardware based, not software).

When you say "hardware based," do you mean like having a separate hard drive with say Windows XP or Windows 7 installed? I actually do have a real copy of WinXP Pro just laying around, but I don't know if I can partition my existing C drive or if I have to use another hard drive altogether. Plus there's all kinds of issues with having older systems installed that don't support certain components, such as HDMI or DisplayPort out for monitors like Windows XP can't. I, unfortunately, can't afford to build another PC at the moment, nor find one in the wild that hopefully works. I frankly wouldn't trust second-hand PCs, who knows what could go wrong?

Yes, separate drives. I keep Win10 installed on an SSD, and WinXP on HDD. Either swap plugs, or get a hardwired switch that kills both power and connection to the drive NOT being booted.

If you use XP Integral Edition (unofficial), you won't have issues. The main thing is having it set to use legacy BIOS mode and not UEFI. Most boards have that option. WinXP most certainly supports HDMI.

I agree, you don't want a random system for capturing. Certain criteria need to be met. I'm currently building some systems for other members here, but I use a mix of new and used parts. New PSU, new case, various cards, etc.

I actually do know about XP Integral, I tried it out but didn't do anything with it, I guess I now have a reason to use it. So why exactly does one drive have to be "dead" while the other one is running? If I use Integral and not real XP, you said I wouldn't have problems, but does that include the hard drive nonsense too? I'd love to use XP for this type of stuff, but I'm not sure how complicated the setup process is. If you could elaborate on that or direct me to a setup tutorial, that would be much appreciated.

You're going to have issues, nuisances at best, leaving both drives plugged in.

The main issue with Integral is that it doesn't come setup with the HDD/ACHI stuff. So you have to run the option on it, make a new ISO, and then use that. Read the instructions. I was very leery of running a com file, so did it on an offline dev system, and it was fine. Moved the new ISO to my system with the burner., using flash drive.

I customized an ISO for Windows XP Integral and burned it to a CD because it wouldn't install otherwise for some reason, but that's beside the point. I managed to get all the way up to "Setup is starting Windows" and then it just didn't go anywhere else, so I turned off my PC. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point, I've read what you said about the SATA drivers and I did apply the patches, but that didn't seem to make a difference. I also can't seem to find a comprehensive installation tutorial anywhere, I'm much better at following along with something I can see.

-- merged --

Okay, so I just made some major progress, but now I'm stuck again. I was able to install Windows XP Integral to a portable hard drive that I had lying around thanks to the USB compatibility patches, but unfortunately, every time I try to load Windows it just says "Windows could not start because the file hal.dll is missing or corrupt." I'm not sure how to proceed, because I can see the install on my drive when I plug it into my system.

hal.dll is hardware abstraction issue, often AHCI drives installed wrong, or not installed. And installing it to a portable is the issue. USB is not SATA (or IDE).

Well, I have no space left in my case to put a hard disk drive and the only other option I have is an SSD, and I'm not sure if Windows XP will install to an SSD. This whole process is needlessly complicated.

-- merged --

I have compiled two different iso files and still can't figure out a way to install this damn version of XP on my PC. You said you keep Windows 10 on an SSD and XP Integral on an HDD, but even having dragged out my old 1TB HDD, I can't figure out how it's supposed to work. I formatted the drive, erased everything on it, installed the SATA drivers which were included in the iso patcher twice and still couldn't get it to work. Can you please provide any additional information? I've looked and looked and looked and still can't figure it out. I also don't seem to be able to change my SATA modes from within my BIOS, and if that's the case, this may be a complete waste of time. And if THAT'S the case, let's just say I will be very, very displeased.

When you DIY anything, there is both learning curve and potential challenges. The other option is to pay to have it professionally done. That's true of not only video conversion, but lawn mowing, carpet cleaning, etc. (Whether those services do a good job, of course, is another thing entirely). So frustration goes with the territory.

There's only so much I can do over the interwebs, not having the system in front of me. But the quick cheat sheet is legacy BIOS mode (not UEFI), SATA/AHCI drivers + Win install mode.

Perhaps just entirely remove drives, I think you're confusing yourself.

If the case is too small, that's what bigger cases are for --- but that has to be a seriously tiny case to not fit drives. Or some crappy gamer case, all looks and no utility.