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PAL capture device recommendations?
Hi, I want to digitize a lot of VHS tapes, I would love to digitize at the highest quality, for a price between 100 and 300 dollars at most, what is the best option? I have read good things about the ADVC 110, I also read something good about the Blackmagic Intensity but then I read you on the forum saying that it loses frames.
I give top priority to audio, but I would also like it to output really good video. I have a VHS, I have a Panasonic DMR-EX99 VHS-DVD combo, if I connect the combo to the Intensity Shuttle or the Intensity Pro via HDMI, for example, would I lose frames? Would the audio be affected too? The good thing about the Blackmagic is how comfortable it would be for me, and that I can't install an old operating system here due to lack of space. What would be the best way to get super good audio and more than decent video as well? another thing, the problem with the frames with bm, is it also with pal? or only with ntsc? in that case do you recommend for example the advc 110 or 300? which one? |
What software are you going to use with the Shuttle? It’s not compatible with Virtualdub.
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I don't even know which capture device would be better for me, I haven't thought about that yet, that's why I haven't asked that yet. |
Hi, you really need to use the "search" box at the top of the page as all your questions have been answered MANY times before. Maybe start by researching the hardware that you suggest.
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Analog Blackmagic devices typically need a pretty stable signal and good frame TBC to really consider using at all which is likely not in the budget described, whereas the ADVC110 does well without a frame TBC. The EX99 most likely already has line-TBC-like-effects especially through the HDMI output as European models retained that feature as they continued to use a different chipset than the USA ones did. If you aren't seeing vertical wavy lines within the picture or on the edges of the screen, it's probably safe to say that it is acting like a line TBC. If you like how VHS looks playing over HDMI on a modern HDTV, then you could also just capture from that. If you capture from HDMI, it might put HDCP (copy protection) on the output which can be bypassed with certain HDMI splitters.
Another consideration is macrovision. If your tapes are macrovision protected, you'll want an ADVC100 or ADVC55 instead of the 110. The 110 can't bypass macrovision. Only difference between the 110 and the 100 (other than the lack of macrovision bypass mode) is that the 110 can run on power from the firewire port whereas the 100 always needs a separate AC adapter. If you want something reliable that isn't going to have audio sync issues or be too picky with non time base corrected signals at your quoted budget, the ADVC-100 or 55 are good options, particularly for PAL per Video99.co.uk, he does most of his transfers in that format. It's hard to say you could go a proper lossless route without a frame TBC or a much higher end VCR, though the HDMI output from the EX99 is probably quite stable, but you'll need to check your settings on the EX99 to see if it can output 576i (for PAL) over HDMI or not and you'd also need an HDMI capture card that can capture it that way as well (which is a much rarer feature on newer capture cards, but most Blackmagic cards probably still can) as well as an HDMI splitter that removes HDCP that the EX99 probably adds to the HDMI output that'll prevent most capture cards from capturing at all. Depending on the capture program, if you're ok with some dropped frames and inserted frames here and there, you could use a modern analog capture card as well. Main issue is audio sync problems, but I hear AmarecTV does a pretty good job of keeping things in sync even if there are frame drops without particularly complicated settings. Virtualdub can probably do it too, but I think it's harder to set up initially and doesn't create a detailed frame drop/insert log like AmarecTV does. I don't think you have to worry about macrovision with the HDMI route, it's HDCP instead. Downsides of DV/Firewire is potentially macroblocking in low contrast or high motion scenes. Color accuracy may not be exactly perfect either, but color was never really that accurate for VHS to begin with, often containing a lot of chroma noise. Upside is smaller initial capture file sizes around 13GB per hour. |
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When you go from analog to digital you have to think about Timebase errors. https://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vid...time-base.html I used the shuttle before and have used a better card now and the shuttle is just wasted money if you want to capture analog. It’s better to get a good card for this and capture in a losslessly compressed codec like Huffy but that will go way over your budget because you have to have something to prevent timebase errors. The Canopus ADVC 300 has some issues like the filters being always on. https://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vcr...00-dead-2.html Really DV isn’t as bad for Pal VHS as it is for NTSC but since there is lossy compression before editing you can have troubles when you edit it because you threw out color information during capture. So it brings up the question are you going to be editing your VHS? https://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vid...erter-pal.html Besides that you really want to use Svideo because it separates your luma and chroma instead of compositing them together. The combo units are really bad and the Svideo connection on them Isn’t really Svideo because luma and chroma are composited together internally in the machine. An Svideo deck is a better idea and PAL decks are cheaper than NTSC but a 300 dollar price range makes that tough. Anyways here’s the recommended VCRs. https://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vid...ing-guide.html |
but wouldn't the panasonic ex99 work as a tbc? and another thing, the advc 100 doesn't have synchronization right? and what tbc would work well for the 100 or 110?
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Welcome. :)
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That won't happen. "higher quality" is not achieved with such low numbers. On what basis have you come up with those numbers? It's like asking for a "good working" car, but only having less than 1000 dollars/euros/quid to spend on it. Not happening there, either. You can surely buy "something", but it'll not be quality by any means. But if 100-300 is a budget for just the capture card, then you're in good shape. Several options. Ideally, certain USB cards from ATI/Pinnacle/clones. Not just any random card, definitely not anything "new" (all old/inferior tech still sold) from Amazon/eBay. Quote:
Blaclmagic is HD gear "also does" SD, and quite poorly. Quote:
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Or just restating that your VCR is that Panasonic model? Quote:
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My point here is how I started this reply: When you use wrong or inferior gear, you get into this screwy "duct tape and chicken wire" situation. You're using gear as it wasn't intended, and it's a long-winded frustrating process. You'll spend all your time "trying to make it all work", rather than just converting the videos. Isn't that what you actually want to do? Because, again, in general, proper quality gear "just works". (Yes, it costs money, like everything else in life.) Quote:
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Above all, I want to give priority to audio quality, that the audio is very good, what do you recommend?
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When you correct/purify the video, the audio tends to fall into place without much effort. The main issue with audio is linear vs. HiFi, and how well (or not well) it was recorded to the tape. For example, JVC decks get a bad reputation for linear audio, but it's really not JVC's fault. And then other decks can sound bad or worse. It really goes back to the source tape audio recording quality.
The capture card needs to not be tinny or distorted. A lot of cheap USB cards use junk processing. ADVC boxes actually have pretty crappy audio, because again, 1990s tech. (I had a Pro Audio card in the 1990s, but it cost $$$. Most cards, especially cheap SoundBlaster, were awful.) Yep, also watch the power line noise. Yes, certain Pinnacles have quite decent audio -- but not all, certainly not Dazzle junk. Also not "the best", but it's up there. |
Just bringing this up as a bit of story on audio quality. Do remember getting a TV recording VHS tape that was recorded EP mode, and linear only (must've been recorded on a rather cheap VCR) that no joke, the audio was so low, so inaudible and just so plan bad that it basically made the whole tape unwatchable (even if the footage itself was fine given the recording speed/VCR). So I took the lost and deleted the captured file, felt like I wasted my time digitizing such a tape. Even EP mode VHS-C tapes, for as muffled as they are, sounded better than that TV recording.
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Probably, but that was the worse tape I came across audio wise. I've done other TV recordings, from SP to EP and they never sounded as bad as that single tape, where the audio was basically unrecoverable. All the other mono only EP mode tapes I've done have audio that is just muffled with noticeable hiss, but still audible enough. The audio on that tape sounded like it was badly processed. But it doesn't matter anymore, tape is gone, I felt like I wasted my time doing it. As I've said, even mono only VHS-C tapes recorded in EP mode, for as muffled the audio can be (plus the quality of the camcorder's microphone) didn't sound so bad it basically made the final result unwatchable.
I don't really want to argue as this would just detract from the original intention of this thread. Just thought about sharing a story but it might be leading to a fight.. I don't know, since it was that one tape it was probably just an outlier, and not my VCR making linear audio tapes sound worse than when I first got it. |
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Hi, I'm thinking of buying an aja lhi, which super vhs do you recommend for pal? I give priority to audio, but of course the video must also be good. Another question, if the super vhs has tbc, is it necessary to put dmr es10 in it? Because I think I've read that they are different, and it is necessary even if the super vhs also has tbc, but other comments say the opposite and it confuses me.
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