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Avisynth vs. VirtualDub filters?
hey guys,
recently I read many topics in Avisynth, Aviedit+ , virtual dub I found Avisynth is the most hard one due to writing code ( scripting ) and Avieditplus is a bit easier cuz it helped in coding and there many options in filter ( click and see ) the most easy one is VDUB , it so easy and powerful , the filters are ready and u can chose and apply the filter. my question , are they doing the same function exactly ? in other meaning , if I apply filter in VDUB and in the same time in Avisynth , could be the result the same? |
https://youtu.be/3dET-EoIMM8?si=xpIrUhoFsPIpSxVL That’s over different color spaces. In analog they came out with black and white TVs which just show luminance then they added color later but it was separate so that the TVs were compatible at that time. YUV is luminance separated from chroma. Luma is 4 chromas are 2 and 2. RGB is 444. You want to edit in YUV first and you can use Hybrid or for something easier than that Staxrip. Avisynth is great but it’s more complicated and there is a big learning curve. You can go back to virtualdub once you get the video to RGB but really I think everything most people need for video is in Hybrid.
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If you have some time to spend on somethind i'd say learn avisynth and use avisynth plus (or vapoursynth) which is the latest & greatest as far as performances. The minus will be compatibility with old regular avisynth 2.6 branch plugins
If you're the lazy kind there are softwares based on avisynth filters like avidemux (and many others) but limitated in the number of usable filters. The basic are there and good enough for ok sources (like retail dvd's). Vdub is good because you have a decent interface (i still use it). Historically the best decent, lightweight, free video editor / frameserver. It's got shortcomings like RGB colorspace is required , and old plugins / no more developped. |
@Gary34 thanks for ur great information , I believe once the signal YUV digitized so thats mean the RGB is present. So I can use
Hybrid , could u plz send me the link cuz I tried to search on it but no result except car ( gas + electric ) lol . |
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Ok I will try to learn step by step and I will apply filter by scripting. Can I use fixed scripting to resolve my issue . if yes where I can find most scripting used Thanks in advanced |
What VCR, TBC, capture card are you using and are you capturing a losslessly compressed Huffy AVI file or an MP4?
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and then I have two option. either elgato or blachmagic intensity then PC 1) VCR---------elgato--------pc ( mp4 ) lossy 2) VCR --------BM-----------pc ( AVI )uncompressed 0r ( mtroska ) lossless but in both i had issues some time |
What software are you using for capture with the blackmagic intensity shuttle?
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and some time the picture is flickering all the time. So I use DVD recorder as a stage of TBC after VCR to avoid flickering. it is ok
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I believe the Intensity Shuttle is incompatible with Virtualdub but I might be wrong. I used mine with Premier Pro. It was a headache. When I switched capture cards the combination of being able to get into better capture software like Virtualdub and the fact that I could capture losslessly compressed Huffy instead of uncompressed like the shuttle does was a huge difference. The Intensity Shuttle will drop frames even with a good TBC in the workflow. It doesn’t report the drops. The elgato is also not recommended.
Losslessly compressed AVIs have the same amount of video data as lossless but they are half the size. There’s no downside to capturing Huffy. The combo VCR/DVD players are cheaply made and not a good choice. The biggest quality difference you will have is from choosing a good VCR. Having a good recommended refurbished VCR will prevent a lot of issues later. Trying to deal with these issues later in software would be a nightmare. I would take it one step at a time and look into recommended hardware before looking into software. |
Huffy is about a third the size of uncompressed.
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So what do u think of work flow of digitize uncompressed VCR--BM---PC ( vrcord or VDub) the result is good but some time I had issue in mesecam tape , |
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Condition is a big deal with vintage electronics like this. Buying gear from eBay is unrecommended. Running into gear that is in good shape on eBay is really really rare. The most ridiculous listings on eBay IMO are the Panasonic 1980p ags. You really want refurbished gear from someone that knows what they are doing. This site has a marketplace. |
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About 15% can be repaired, but not yet used. About 5% is functional. But only 1% of less is truly in excellent functioning condition. I am not exaggerating whatsoever, and I have tested these numbers multiple times myself. The reason is simple: these sellers are in the low-knowledge general population, not the high-knowledge niche video hobby/pro community. They sell crap, and don't know any better. Worse yet, the buyers often think quality models of gear are junk simply because they bought a junked out copy of a good model. eBay has some really red-flag BS sellers on there lately, and I'm in the midst of write out a long warning post, hope to have published in the next week or so. |
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If you are running a business where people pay you to digitize their VHS then there is a lot more to consider before you start something like this. Myself and a lot of the other people on here are hobbyist. A business has to think about a lot that a hobbyist doesn’t with this. Some here do this professionally but if that’s what you are doing those kinds of details need to be known in order to give you better advice.
I’m wondering about the condition of the tapes you are wanting to digitize. What condition are they in? Are the tapes mangled and you are thinking a TBC will fix them? This method requires a lot more money on gear and more knowledge compared to what most digitizing services do now days. You have to get a customer base that will pay you for all the extra that you are doing so that you can make a decent wage. If your market of people is local then you have to think about that. |
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