Media collection organization, digitize plans?
Hello,
Not sure if this is relevant or not, but I have been a long-time reader of the site, and feel like I have a somewhat educated idea of what is and is not a good workflow/transfer setup/etc. Within the last year or so, I have come into possession of a large amount of media over several decades: Approximately 20 VHS tapes, all NTSC I believe save for one NTSC-J tape and possibly a PAL (AU) tape Approximately 10 Video8 and Hi8 tapes, all NTSC. I believe I also have both the cameras used to record the tapes in case of playback issues, but the Video8 camera was dismantled completely after its capacitors failed with the tape stuck inside. Approximately 15 reels of 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm film, some dating as far back as the early 1950s. I do not have the cameras of info for these, but I’m led to believe for most of the reels, the lenses and cameras used were definitely high quality/expensive at the time. I do not believe any have suffered from dreaded vinegar syndrome as far as I can smell, but I have not taken any of them out of the canisters to see for myself. A single VHS-C tape, while it is intact, I believe there may be some dirt on the part of the tape near the flap due to the lack of a case. Along with this visual media was a substantial amount of audio media: Approximately 40 Audio Cassette tapes, many containing personally valuable recordings. I made the mistake of examining a certain funny-looking tape only for it to begin shedding at one end, leaving flakes all inside the player internals. I believe it was a cheap tape that degraded long ago, but I did not loose to much hopefully, and learned the valuable lesson of potential “One-and-Done” tapes. Possibly close to 60+ Microcassette tapes. I understand that the audio quality of this medium is generally atrocious, but many of these tapes also contain largely irreplaceable content. I have many stills (negatives, prints, and slides) as well, but I am dealing with those myself using multiple different scanning machines. I also plan to do the same for approximately 100 MiniDV tapes, as I have the two of the three original cameras, cables, and a computer with a FireWire port, just need to find the hard drives for it. I understand the forum deals primarily with videotape ingest/transfer and not necessarily audio cassette or microcassette transfers, but I believe I may have narrowed down a list of which media to send where: Videotapes: Perhaps website owner Lordsmurf? His wealth of knowledge has proven invaluable to me, and (ironically or not) also persuaded me to consider not buying the Millenium-Era JVC decks or 1980s, although I’m certain I would have probably taken a serious look at the marketplace workflows if I had more than double or triple the amount of video tapes. My only (admittedly minor) concerns are shipping (not entirely his fault, although he wisely suggests the fastest shipping available, as the less time an item is in the mail, the less time it has to get lost/misplaced) and turnaround/response time. From what I can tell publicly, the last year or so has been very rough on him and his business, and that has led to some delayed turnaround time and other discussion online. I believe he may be in a better position to take on new transfer work now, but that’s just a partially educated guess. Film: I understand the two recommended services on the sites are with Cinepost and Cinelab. While I have seen great results from Cinepost, I am put off a bit from all their production footage showing what appears to be telecine equipment and “motion-driven” (read: not individual frame-by-frame) scanning processes. Others I have come across along with Cinelab with seemingly great results and available technology are outfits like The Negative Space, Gamma Ray Video, and Narrow Gauge Films. Also worth mentioning are industry houses like Spectra, Fotokem, Gotham Chemical, and Cineric(?) who apparently have taken on personal home video scanning in the past, although I am no longer sure how true any of that is. Would be interested to hear if anyone on the forums has used any of these businesses for transfer services. Audiotapes: I am actually at a bit of a loss here. :confused: I understand principles such as Azimuth adjustment/frequency tuning and how decks like the Nakamichi Dragon may be crucial for a proper tape transfer, but I have no leads on generally recommended or well-regarded services for audio cassettes of this nature, let alone microcassettes. What would a proper microcassette transfer workflow look like? Would it use that obscure police-grade adjuster deck that sometimes makes appearances on the dreaded eBay? If anyone else in the community has alternate suggestions or general ideas on how I should proceed with such a task/project, I would be interested to hear them. |
For audio cassettes just get a single cassette deck (2 head is okay) from the 90's for less than $200, Avoid dual cassette at all cost, Use the adjusting azimuth screw to fine tune each tape, use line out and any USB audio interface will do just fine, most of them are at least 96/24 but I had recording transferred for clients at CD quality 44.1/16 final output from 32bit float 192/24 device and they sounded fantastic to them.
For film, see if you can find a service that use modern telecine machines (4k, 6k sensors), some are wet gate some are not. DV tapes are direct digital transfer, just use the camcorder and iLink port, If your computer doesn't have firewire card there are alternatives based on your OS and hardware. For analog video tapes I'll let LS take over. |
OK, by USB audio interface, are you referring to a device such as a Focusrite Scarlett 8i6 or Zoom UAC? Still much cheaper than a Nakamichi Dragon regardless :laugh:
I assume I would be sending the audio into a program like Pro Tools? I know LS has said not to use DAWs, but if anything, I have been lead to believe that something like Audacity would not be at the same standard for recording. As for microcassettes, my understanding is that there were very few quality decks made for them, and they were more of an experiment than anything (made sometime in the early 1980s?) I assume the other options are recorders/portable players made for these tapes, but I’m not sure how good they are and how easy it is to correct/adjust for azimuth errors on those. |
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Azimuth is critical on standard speed microcassette and ridiculously critical on half speed. Azimuth is not only often out but tends to wander back and forth. Some portables may have a pre drilled hole in the case to accept a suitable small screwdriver. Others may require careful hole drilling in the plastic case for azimuth screw access. Sometimes for good results we have to improvise. The "police grade adjuster deck" you referred to is probably the JB Reames with the special 9 track head and the extra read head for detection of altered recordings. I'm not sure if it's still made. I know a large archive here purchased one recently but I think it was second hand. |
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Audacity is all you need for audio capture, editing and restoration. |
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I do have access to another desktop though that would be more capable of working with modern sound cards. |
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Stereo playback of mono microcassette recordings is not to be sneezed at. When digitising Compact Cassettes it's common to play back even mono recordings on a stereo deck, to moderate the azimuth misalignment issues and to allow extra flexibility in post. Even more important with the super slow microcassette LP speed. I've professionally custom modded playback decks for audio, video and film digitisation purposes and have been on the lookout for a true stereo microcassette magnetic playback head. A microcassette head needs to be shorter than usual to squeeze into the smaller window of the tiny microcassette. Such a head would probably have to be salvaged from a parts microcassette deck such as from one of the stereo models you mention. So I appreciate the list of models. I notice not all of the decks you list carry the two speeds. The manufacturers would have been well aware the slower 1.2 cm/s speed fell well short of high fidelity performance, which perhaps explains their not including it on some models. |
Correct, although it’s a shame these particular decks have become so hard to get a hold of. Even back in the 2010s, someone found a cache of unopened examples, but it seems those days have gone. Anyways, does anyone know of any specific decks along the lines of those recommended by latreche34? There were so many in the 1990s, and I believe the overall quality began to decrease near the end of the decade as many manufacturers moved away from the format and took their playback/recording technology with them.
Back to the some of videotapes I mentioned earlier, I was recently informed that many of the VHS (along with the sole VHS-C) tapes had been stored in an attic (horrible place for it, I know) for possibly decades. It appears to have been by a mainly cool seaside area, so perhaps with the insane heat or temperature fluctuations, but I’m sure it has probably gotten hot in that attic during some of the more recent summers. This may or may not have degraded the tapes more quickly, and since I’m not certain of the actual tape quality, I can only guesstimate. Final issue of note for now, but is anyone aware of where to get a properly working Nikon Coolscan 9000? The one I purchased sometime ago has apparently given up the ghost, and I’ve had no luck repairing it despite considerable help. eBay is, of course, a gamble and some of the Facebook groups for these scanners appear to see almost every “listed” item trade hands privately prior to sale(?) |
Those dinosaurs go for a lot of money in working condition, There are good modern alternatives but you have to do a lot of research to stay away from Chinese clones, Don't kid yourself, Imaging sensors have come along way and they are far better now than ever before, Even the backlighting has improved now, Cold RGB LEDs are used instead of Halogen bulbs. Also avoid the obvious Chinese gadgets that use camera pickup instead of an imaging sensor.
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Worth mentioning have a V850 Pro that I use for prints I otherwise have no negatives for (can’t quite put up five figures for Flextight at the moment), but I prefer dedicated scanners, as much as I try to refrain from dragging flatbeds through the mud. I know of the PrimeFilm products, but have read many disappointing reviews of them in comparison. There is also the new PlusTek Pro scanner that apparently no one can get ahold of these days, but even it has apparently proven unreliable, at least earlier on in production. I just have yet to see a true successor to the Coolscan 9000 that isn’t from Hasselblad, which is an entirely different market anyway. Imaging sensor tech has indeed vastly improved, but I believe that newer scanners fail to take advantage of it because of cost reasons or the fact the market has shrunk (the reason Nikon apparently ended manufacturing their scanners).
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Fun fact: I was doing digital audio in the early 90s, using Pro Audio Spectrum/Studio cards (ISA), with early versions of Sonic Foundry Sound Forge. Audio really is simple compared to video, and processes so much faster (and often better). It's just not something mentioned much anymore, because it's rarely done by anybody. Perhaps I should write guides on it next year? I have certain Aiwa gear for audio conversion, into Turtle Beach Santa Cruz. Quote:
Contact me in January, both for video and audio. :cool: Quote:
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PlusTek may have been taken over by Pacific Image, Haven't look it up but they have a new model shaped exactly like the PlusTek model. I personally own the PrimeFilm XEs, found it on eBay in good condition for $150 and couldn't resist the deal, If I knew that PrimeFilm 120 Pro Plus will be out I would've waited, But so far I'm happy with the XEs, though it only does 135 film max, I don't have larger films anyway. |
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I actually found a post on Cinematography.com where Perry Paolantonio of Gamma Ray Digital (who apparently also manages the u/friolator Reddit account) goes into more detail:
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Since the last posting, I was able to come across the alleged PAL tape, only to discover it was actually an NTSC tape that was created in AU for some reason. As for the film, the total amount came around to around five thousand feet of 8mm, Super 8mm, and 16mm film. Despite contacting Gamma Ray Digital and receiving relatively reasonable pricing, I will be unlikely to have all the film digitized. Some of the film is stable and properly wound/not smelling (although some reels have white mold on them, it appears to be “inactive” and I wonder if cleaning the film with an outfit like Spec Bros may cost as much as sending it to be scanned anyway). However, without the fund to scan it all, I have decided on having the film in the poorest condition (those which have begun to develop some vinegar syndrome) initially, and have the others done at a later date. This may be a great plan or a terrible one, I’m not exactly sure. As for the analog videotapes, now that I have all of them accounted for, I sent LordSmurf a message. Hopefully I can get them sent to him relatively soon. :) -- merged -- Partly unrelated, but is anyone aware of the sound quality on devices like the Sharp CT-5001 and its badge-engineered counterpart the General Electric 4CM3326X? Apparently, these were made in the early 1980s like the other Hi-Fi microcassette machines and featured a miniature built in radio and television as well as the stereo microcassette player. I have been able to come across listings of these in the last few months, which is more than I can say for the Sanyo or Technics decks. I did see some unused Lo-D decks go for just short of four figures USD though, which is a serious amount. -- merged -- Update: I bit the bullet on a CoolScan 5000, so that puts the stills issue away for now. I also have managed to finally gain (temporary) access to a very rare, personally valuable tape in unknown condition. I know RF capture is a frowned upon method due to the vaporware, unreliable and unproven nature of projects like the misinformation-riddled VHS-Decode, but would it be possible to perform some sort of rip of the RF data from the tape in addition to a traditional transfer to possibly get more detail out of the data in the future? This is a tape I am unlikely to ever have access to again once I return it to its owner. |
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If you do decide to do it, do it 2nd. Remember, some tapes are "one and done", and you don't want to waste that single pass on something unproven. Right now, in the hands of most people, it's just another way to screw up tapes/conversions, botched DIY work. :screwy: Quote:
But be aware the slide scanning can be subpar, even compared to a flatbed like the Epson V600. And then pay attention to the Kodak notes. |
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Good for them, but it's not any sort of game changer how they think. It's so easy to think others have the skills you do, or the patience, or the lack of fear of catching it all on fire. It's so involved, for essentially the same results, or worse. The real benefit is non-VHS formats, non-Hi8/Video8 formats, where no quality players exist (just crummy players, but heads are all you need there). |
This goes to show the great lengths people can go to try to save some money.
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As for the CoolScan 5000, I’m familiar with its system, so it would be picking up where I left off. |
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The information here is probably not worth a whole posting, but here’s how much (or little) of the situation has changed the last couple of months:
Upon closer inspection, a handful of the tapes appeared to be possibly recorded television or otherwise, and with a working player in hand, I took a calculated risk and decided to play back the most questionable tapes. Thankfully, I made sure to test the machine carefully beforehand with many other tapes, and it operates as standard. However, I will note that it’s not a player really worth anything: it’s definitely what would have been considered (bottom-tier) in the 1980s, and it was (likely rebadged) by a short-lived business with only about three mentions on the searchable internet. The risk paid off, and all of the five or so tapes contained either television from around 1990 (think several episodes of Life Goes On, an airing of Small Sacrifices, etc.) One of the unlabeled tapes was the NatGeo documentary on Sharks from 1982, and one of the tapes was completely blank! No signal, no time code/counter, simply unused. I even played a movie on it out of curiosity, only for the tape to snap. I later opened up the cassette to find the tape was moldy: I had not been able to see it previously, because the Blockbuster “To PLAY is human, To REWIND is divine!” sticker over the left reel window. The model was not on the part of the tape that had played, but I’m considering writing off the player entirely, and have not played tapes on it since. I will note however, that of all the tapes (commercial or not) I have personally, this Blockbuster tape was the only one I had either inspected, played or both that had any sort of mold or stickiness/other issues. I also recently started looking at the HS-U70 I have that my father purchased new in the 1980s. I tested the machine with a few movies while I had the top screwed off, and found that the right reel of the tape wasn’t advancing, causing the machine to eat the tape. Despite not ever having worked on VCRs before, I took the bottom off, and found that the belt had completely failed and turned into goopy plastic. I ordered an new belt, but I have yet to install it. Having read into these Mitsubishi machines, I assume the S-VHS playback caps have gone bad, but since I have no tapes of this sort (that I’m aware of), it isn’t exactly an issue for me yet. I do wonder what people think of these machines, they’re probably not on the level of 1990s Sharp, Sony or Philips machines, but these Mitsubishi units were definitely not cheap when new, and I rarely see them discussed online. Finally, I received a rare tape from elsewhere in the western states, which I honestly did not believe I would ever get my hands on. the tape is a 1980s RECOTON (120? The label is largely scratched off), so I’m not exactly expecting the greatest quality. However, I noticed upon inspecting the tape physically, that at least the beginning of the tape looks extremely wrinkled. I have yet to receive a response from the owner as to how or when this may have occurred. Is this section at all salvageable, say with a heavy book and an unplugged, but warm iron? Or should it be removed and a new leader applied to the remaining tape? |
Ironing is risky, so tread carefully.
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Small update on the Mitsubishi unit, I finally got around to putting in the new belt, and despite having no experience repairing videocassette recorders, it solved the issue. All the functions appear to work fine save for the video, which is constantly snowy and blurry despite good audio. I suspect the heads are dirty, although I could be mistaken. Attached is an image of the drum shortly after I got the belt installed, is this mark enough to cause the video issues?:
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Obviously it shouldn't be there, What is it though? Is it chrome layer flaking, dirt buildup, stain ...? I would worried running a tape through it.
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-- merged -- Update on the swabs, packaging says they’re “open cell,” so unfortunately, I can’t put those anywhere near my tape equipment. Currently searching for the camera sensor chamois swabs, but finding good ones is proving more difficult than I imagined. I also took a look at the “lost” and flaky compact cassette tape I mentioned much earlier, I had to cut lots of the tape off and then used the remaining clear oxide-less tape portion to serve as a new leader. Not sure whether to dehumidify it or bake the tape in a dedicated Chemist oven (which I’m not sure how to access). |
The open cell should be fine for non-important surfaces, like rollers. It's mostly heads that can snag, so those are bad near the heads.
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Yeah, I bought them with the original intention of cleaning the mark off the video head drum, which I definitely won’t be doing with these foam swabs. It seems almost impossible to find similar chamois swabs without buying an entire kit.
I would assume these sorts of swabs might do the trick?: https://abra-electronics.com/chemica...g-810d-15.html |
There aren't any heads in sight in your pic. They are the tiny protuberances in the crack/split between the drum (shiny bit that rotates) and the base (fixed bit below). There's only a few (6?). Spin the drum around 90° and you'll see the tiny heads.
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So then my heads are clean and I can leave the mark where it is? I was hoping it was just dirty heads, because I would prefer that explanation to the snowy/scrolling video quality than something more complex/out of my potential expertise.
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Depends on what that mark is, if it's a pit or a boss and you can't remove it, the whole head needs to be replaced, If it's just a stain and you can't feel anything when moving you fingernail across it then it could be faulty heads, You need super magnification to check if they are chipped or missing.
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I won’t be able to check on the heads for some time, but the little notch where they (should) be was on the other side of the drum, which didn’t appear to have any major marks like this. I have a feeling the mark may be affecting playback in some way, but I could be mistaken. There is a small chance that the playback issues could be caused by the composite cables (the machine can output S-Video, but I don’t have a monitor currently with the relevant port), but I have a feeling it’s unlikely.
Back to the compact cassette for a bit, assuming I can bake it in a chemist/dedicated oven, how long (roughly) would I have to transfer that tape or to have it transferred? |
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