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Pioneer DV-09 DVD player will not power up
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hi guys. i don't really know where to put this, but after reading around here a bit, i think some of the techs here just might be able to help me with this.
i have a 1998/2000 TOTL PIONEER DV-09 DVD player that i've had for a couple of years now, i bought it second hand off EBAY, as COMPLETE as if i had forked over $2000.00 for it back in it's day. it served me VERY well for over a year, then, one day, while watching a rental disc, the player just "flicked off" spontaneously. the player APPEARED to have wen't into it's usual POWER OFF/STANDBY mode, with it's LED indicator glowing it's steady red as usual when powered down. i go to turn the thing back on, and that LED just "flicks off" and goes into a pattern of flashing briefly about once every five secs. or so. the player has been locked in this dead state for the last 6/8 months now. i'm not a tech. i've no technical education, but have some basic experience with fixing mechanical VCR issues and such. i have the DV-09 service manual and have been unable to find anything in it that even points in this problem's general direction. one thing i HAVE been able to ascertain, is that there is NOTHING wrong with the disc transport, laser pickup or anything of the like. i picked up a DV-606D, the TOTL PIONEER STANDARD LINE DVDP model from 1998, the debut year of this DV-09, as a stand-in DVDP until i can get my DV-09 fixed. i discovered that the DV-606D has the same transport mechanism as the DV-09, and as such, i was able to test the DV-09 transport using the 606D chassis, and was able to verify the DV-09 transport's full normal operation. what that leaves me with is the DV-09's issue being either in the power supply section or system control section. as i mentioned, i'm no educated technician, but i have a hunch that the problem lies somewhere in the power supply PCB, and if i was to buy another, functional DV-09 and swap-out the PS PCBs, that my original DV-09 would likely come right back to life. anyone have any thoughts to share about all this? Attachment 1444 Attachment 1445 Attachment 1446 Attachment 1436 Attachment 1437 Attachment 1438 Attachment 1439 http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...er06-16-09.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9MACGYVER2.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9MACGYVER4.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1959.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...09/DV-0912.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-09/DV-096.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-09/DV-094.jpg **** EXCERPTS FROM 1999 PIONEER ELITE CATALOG, FEATURING THE DV-09 **** http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ERCATDV-09.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-092.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-093.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-094.jpg |
It sounds like a power-related issue. Given the era this thing is from, it's potentially suffering from bad capacitors. Your image, however, is too small to see any of the caps in detail.
Although made for other gear, like JVC DVD recorders, the concepts in these threads still applies to your situation:
Read those a bit. :) |
thanks. those must be some pretty cheap caps in there, then.
i've got plenty of gear that's fully twice as old as this player that's still going on strong in complete unaltered factory condition... |
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i just lifted the PSU PCB from the chassis,
and took high-res shots of the top and bottom. i do not know that you'll be able to tell anything from them, as the caps look just fine to my eye, but here they are anyway; Attachment 1448 Attachment 1449 http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...PCB5-5-111.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...PCB5-5-112.jpg your theory about these caps' possible failure sounds solid to me, however, so i think it'll be worthwhile to take this player into my local service shop for a once-over. one thing however; since this player has such a modular, compartmentalized design, with individual PCBs serving specific functions such as this PSU, might it be possible for me to take just this PSU PCB module into the shop for testing and cap replacement, or will it be absolutely necessary to take the entire player in? also, might it be easier/cheaper to buy another operational DV-09 at it's current second-hand rate of about $150/$250 and transplant it's functional PSU to my original chassis? |
Remember to attach images to threads: How to Upload/View/Download Images+Attachments. Thanks.
I don't see any bad caps on this board. What about the others? Bad caps -- anywhere -- could lead to problems like you describe. It doesn't necessarily have to be a cap on the power board itself. Errors tend to cascade. I see quite a few fuses in there, too. Those could have gone bad. What's the draw to this specific DVD player? Players made pre-2005 are arguably weak in drive performance, and then drives age over time. In just a few years, the DVD drive could be dead, and I don't imagine parts will be easy to replace. You could get a great Blu-ray player for $200 or less, instead of a decade-old DVD player. Sure, back in the day, it was a nice player. But now? I had a Toshiba player that was easily better than a Pioneer Elite, back in 2002-2003. |
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I just fixed a used one from recycle place wit the same problem. You need to check the VA+3V FUSE (IC201, 491.400) 400mA PICO fuse and the other 5 fuses also.
The fuse is the 2-lead yellow/brown color as shown in your power supply board picture. Check out my repair pictures at Photobucket, user name 'budm' |
Pioneer DV-09 power supply PICO fuses
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Ok, let see if I make the picture shows in the post, sorry, just joined the forum. I cirlced the fuses in your pictures.
Attachment 1456 |
thanks a lot!! this looks promising!
i know a service shop about a half-hour's drive from me. suppose that that shop would replace those five fuses if i pulled that PSU again and took it up there by itself? i'll call and ask them tomorrow, one way or the other. on the other hand, how hard would it be for me to replace them myself? they are 400mA "PICO" fuses, correct? i'll check the net and see what they run for. thanks again!! [:)] |
just checked. according to PARTS EXPRESS, PICO fuses run
about $4.37 per 5ct. pack. http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2242941793 so, if the service shop that i'd like to take the PSU to had these fuses on premises, i guess that my repair bill would run about $5.00 or so for parts and whatever their nominal charge is for labor (about $80.00, IIRC) VERY fair, to get my baby back!! damn, i hope this all works out!! |
The one on the top right of the picture is more likely to be the one that is blown, it is for Va as labled on the the small white connector.
They should be able to Ohm out all the PICO fuses easily, no need to replace all of them, you can use 500mA fuse instead of the 400mA. The price you have is about right for pack of 5. Please note that not all the PICO fuses on this board are rated at 400mA, they are labled on the fuse body itself. I get my fuses from Mouser or Digikey. It should not take more than 15 minutes to check and replace the fuse. |
my local shop ("AT HOME ELECTRONICS" in KENNEWICK, WA)
says that they'd have to have the entire player in to do their estimate and commence work. i have basic soldering skills, and a grounded iron, so do you think that this might be a job that an amateur like me could tackle, or do you think it would be best to pay the premium a professional would require? |
That is such a bad excuse to charge the customer, they just need to Ohm out the bad fuse, remove the old fuse and install a new one, lees than 15minutes work.
It is very easy job, only two solder connection, the main key is that you must have good 35~40 Watts soldering iron and solderwick to remove old solder, do not use 25Watts iron, you may end up lifting and damaging traces. Do you have Ohm meter? I am sure you can do it. |
Or if you can't do it, consider paying a college student in an electronics or broadcasting program. Or even a high school or college instructor, who also works on the in-house equipment. They might charge $20-30 for the work, and could easily do it during a lunch break (or between classes, if they skip periods). Note that I would NOT let a high school STUDENT do it.
Local cable companies may also have helpful employees, though it's harder to get past the door nannies, and corporate America has somewhat ruined the relationships cable employees had in the 80s, and even the 90s. But maybe you have a contact there? For that matter, in the age of ridiculous school policies, high school instructors can be hard to reach. A college or university is the best bet. I've done this before. :) |
yeah, i think i could handle the job, despite never attempting
such a thing before. nevertheless, i think i'll pay the premium for professional work. i'd have to get hold of the proper fuses, at least one 400mA, and possibly several other values. DIGI-KEY seems to require you to buy these fuses in 1000ct. batches, and MOUSER ELECTRONICS has them available in batches of 10 or more, but they are a non-stocking item, with a two-and-a-half month lead time to receive the parts. there is a source on EBAY that has 10ct. pouches of 400mA units for about $11 and change shipped. i could have those in a week, but that would still leave me, an amateur solderer, WITHOUT an OHMmeter or the knowledge of how to use one, taking a big risk on an item that, if i messed up, would require me spending about $150/$200 nominal current value or more on another copy of of this player for it's functional PSU. a couple-three years ago, i took a MITSUBISHI HS-U70 S-VHS into this same shop for a cap replacement in it's "S-VHS Hybrid Board" that was preventing S-VHS playback. i also had them clean, lube and replace rubber while they were at it. the final bill was $110 and change. $25.00 for the parts, and $85 for the labor. unless they raised their rates since then, i figure the final DV-09 bill should be no more than $100. we'll see. i hope to take this thing up there within the month. with any luck, they'll have the proper PICOs on site, and they'll have the work done within a week. i'll keep you posted... |
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I would spend $5 for a cheap meter at Harbor Freight for Ohming out the fuses. It is very easy to use as you can see in the picture here:
Attachment 1469 |
38 Cents each, over 10,000 in stock at MOUSER, you can order one or 1000.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...oN5vB4ntyJ0%3d |
okay, you done convinced me.
i have a HARBOR FRIEGHT store about a 1/2 hour's drive away. i'll go get the meter, then order about 5/10 PICOs from MAUSER. shouldn't be any more than perhaps $10/15 total, shipping for the PICOs included. i'll keep you all posted. thanks, man... |
Just be careful soldering. You may want to practice on an old computer motherboard -- or some random piece of electronics junk that you can ruin. I've saw friends fry Playstations and XBOXs, trying to add modchips, back in the day. The biggest issue is accidentally connecting points, and then when the power is turned on, it fries the board. So be very aware of that.
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I would Ohm out the fuses first before ordering the fuse, the one that blown in my (top left of the picture) is 400mA, let us know then I may open my up to take more pictures of all the PICO fuses and values.
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This is my DV-09.
Attachment 1470 |
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