Pioneer DV-09 DVD player will not power up
 

hi guys. i don't really know where to put this, but after reading around here a bit, i think some of the techs here just might be able to help me with this.

i have a 1998/2000 TOTL PIONEER DV-09 DVD player that i've had for a couple of years now, i bought it second hand off EBAY, as COMPLETE as if i had forked over $2000.00 for it back in it's day.

it served me VERY well for over a year, then, one day, while watching a rental disc, the player just "flicked off" spontaneously.

the player APPEARED to have wen't into it's usual POWER OFF/STANDBY mode, with it's LED indicator glowing it's steady red as usual when powered down.

i go to turn the thing back on, and that LED just "flicks off" and goes into a pattern of flashing briefly about once every five secs. or so.

the player has been locked in this dead state for the last 6/8 months now.

i'm not a tech. i've no technical education, but have some basic experience with fixing mechanical VCR issues and such.

i have the DV-09 service manual and have been unable to find anything in it that even points in this problem's general direction.

one thing i HAVE been able to ascertain, is that there is NOTHING wrong with the disc transport, laser pickup or anything of the like.

i picked up a DV-606D, the TOTL PIONEER STANDARD LINE DVDP model from 1998, the debut year of this DV-09, as a stand-in DVDP until i can get my DV-09 fixed.

i discovered that the DV-606D has the same transport mechanism as the DV-09, and as such, i was able to test the DV-09 transport using the 606D chassis, and was able to verify the DV-09 transport's full normal operation.

what that leaves me with is the DV-09's issue being either in the power supply section or system control section.

as i mentioned, i'm no educated technician, but i have a hunch that the problem lies somewhere in the power supply PCB, and if i was to buy another, functional DV-09 and swap-out the PS PCBs, that my original DV-09 would likely come right back to life.

anyone have any thoughts to share about all this?

Attachment 1444

Attachment 1445

Attachment 1446

Attachment 1436

Attachment 1437

Attachment 1438

Attachment 1439

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...er06-16-09.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9MACGYVER2.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9MACGYVER4.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1959.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...09/DV-0912.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-09/DV-096.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...-09/DV-094.jpg


**** EXCERPTS FROM 1999 PIONEER ELITE CATALOG, FEATURING THE DV-09 ****

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ERCATDV-09.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-092.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-093.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...RCATDV-094.jpg

It sounds like a power-related issue. Given the era this thing is from, it's potentially suffering from bad capacitors. Your image, however, is too small to see any of the caps in detail.

Although made for other gear, like JVC DVD recorders, the concepts in these threads still applies to your situation:

• http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/home...g-jvc-dvd.html
• http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/home...html#post13036
• http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/home...-long-jvc.html
• http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/vide...html#post11652

Read those a bit. :)

thanks. those must be some pretty cheap caps in there, then.

i've got plenty of gear that's fully twice as old as this player
that's still going on strong in complete unaltered factory condition...

i just lifted the PSU PCB from the chassis,
and took high-res shots of the top and bottom.

i do not know that you'll be able to tell anything from them,
as the caps look just fine to my eye, but here they are anyway;

Attachment 1448

Attachment 1449

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...PCB5-5-111.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...PCB5-5-112.jpg


your theory about these caps' possible failure sounds
solid to me, however, so i think it'll be worthwhile to take
this player into my local service shop for a once-over.

one thing however; since this player has such a modular,
compartmentalized design, with individual PCBs
serving specific functions such as this PSU,

might it be possible for me to take just this PSU PCB module
into the shop for testing and cap replacement,
or will it be absolutely necessary to take the entire player in?

also, might it be easier/cheaper to buy another operational DV-09
at it's current second-hand rate of about $150/$250
and transplant it's functional PSU to my original chassis?

Remember to attach images to threads: How to Upload/View/Download Images+Attachments. Thanks.

I don't see any bad caps on this board. What about the others? Bad caps -- anywhere -- could lead to problems like you describe. It doesn't necessarily have to be a cap on the power board itself. Errors tend to cascade.

I see quite a few fuses in there, too. Those could have gone bad.

What's the draw to this specific DVD player? Players made pre-2005 are arguably weak in drive performance, and then drives age over time. In just a few years, the DVD drive could be dead, and I don't imagine parts will be easy to replace. You could get a great Blu-ray player for $200 or less, instead of a decade-old DVD player.

Sure, back in the day, it was a nice player. But now?
I had a Toshiba player that was easily better than a Pioneer Elite, back in 2002-2003.

I just fixed a used one from recycle place wit the same problem. You need to check the VA+3V FUSE (IC201, 491.400) 400mA PICO fuse and the other 5 fuses also.
The fuse is the 2-lead yellow/brown color as shown in your power supply board picture. Check out my repair pictures at Photobucket, user name 'budm'

Pioneer DV-09 power supply PICO fuses
 

Ok, let see if I make the picture shows in the post, sorry, just joined the forum. I cirlced the fuses in your pictures.
Attachment 1456

thanks a lot!! this looks promising!

i know a service shop about a half-hour's drive from me.

suppose that that shop would replace those five fuses
if i pulled that PSU again and took it up there by itself?

i'll call and ask them tomorrow, one way or the other.

on the other hand, how hard would it be for me to
replace them myself? they are 400mA "PICO" fuses, correct?

i'll check the net and see what they run for. thanks again!! [:)]

just checked. according to PARTS EXPRESS, PICO fuses run
about $4.37 per 5ct. pack.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2242941793


so, if the service shop that i'd like to take the PSU to
had these fuses on premises, i guess that my repair bill
would run about $5.00 or so for parts and whatever their
nominal charge is for labor (about $80.00, IIRC)

VERY fair, to get my baby back!! damn, i hope this all works out!!

The one on the top right of the picture is more likely to be the one that is blown, it is for Va as labled on the the small white connector.
They should be able to Ohm out all the PICO fuses easily, no need to replace all of them, you can use 500mA fuse instead of the 400mA. The price you have is about right for pack of 5. Please note that not all the PICO fuses on this board are rated at 400mA, they are labled on the fuse body itself.
I get my fuses from Mouser or Digikey. It should not take more than 15 minutes to check and replace the fuse.

my local shop ("AT HOME ELECTRONICS" in KENNEWICK, WA)
says that they'd have to have the entire player in
to do their estimate and commence work.

i have basic soldering skills, and a grounded iron,
so do you think that this might be a job that an amateur like me
could tackle, or do you think it would be best to
pay the premium a professional would require?

That is such a bad excuse to charge the customer, they just need to Ohm out the bad fuse, remove the old fuse and install a new one, lees than 15minutes work.
It is very easy job, only two solder connection, the main key is that you must have good 35~40 Watts soldering iron and solderwick to remove old solder, do not use 25Watts iron, you may end up lifting and damaging traces.
Do you have Ohm meter?
I am sure you can do it.

Or if you can't do it, consider paying a college student in an electronics or broadcasting program. Or even a high school or college instructor, who also works on the in-house equipment. They might charge $20-30 for the work, and could easily do it during a lunch break (or between classes, if they skip periods). Note that I would NOT let a high school STUDENT do it.

Local cable companies may also have helpful employees, though it's harder to get past the door nannies, and corporate America has somewhat ruined the relationships cable employees had in the 80s, and even the 90s. But maybe you have a contact there?

For that matter, in the age of ridiculous school policies, high school instructors can be hard to reach. A college or university is the best bet.

I've done this before. :)

yeah, i think i could handle the job, despite never attempting
such a thing before.

nevertheless, i think i'll pay the premium for professional work.

i'd have to get hold of the proper fuses, at least one 400mA,
and possibly several other values.

DIGI-KEY seems to require you to buy these fuses in 1000ct. batches,
and MOUSER ELECTRONICS has them available in batches of 10 or more,
but they are a non-stocking item,
with a two-and-a-half month lead time to receive the parts.

there is a source on EBAY that has 10ct. pouches of 400mA units
for about $11 and change shipped. i could have those in a week,
but that would still leave me, an amateur solderer,
WITHOUT an OHMmeter or the knowledge of how to use one,
taking a big risk on an item that, if i messed up,
would require me spending about $150/$200 nominal current value or more
on another copy of of this player for it's functional PSU.


a couple-three years ago, i took a MITSUBISHI HS-U70 S-VHS
into this same shop for a cap replacement in it's
"S-VHS Hybrid Board" that was preventing S-VHS playback.

i also had them clean, lube and replace rubber while they were at it.

the final bill was $110 and change. $25.00 for the parts,
and $85 for the labor.

unless they raised their rates since then, i figure the final DV-09 bill
should be no more than $100.

we'll see. i hope to take this thing up there within the month.
with any luck, they'll have the proper PICOs on site,
and they'll have the work done within a week.

i'll keep you posted...

I would spend $5 for a cheap meter at Harbor Freight for Ohming out the fuses. It is very easy to use as you can see in the picture here:

Attachment 1469

38 Cents each, over 10,000 in stock at MOUSER, you can order one or 1000.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...oN5vB4ntyJ0%3d

okay, you done convinced me.

i have a HARBOR FRIEGHT store about a 1/2 hour's drive away.
i'll go get the meter, then order about 5/10 PICOs
from MAUSER.

shouldn't be any more than perhaps $10/15 total,
shipping for the PICOs included.

i'll keep you all posted. thanks, man...

Just be careful soldering. You may want to practice on an old computer motherboard -- or some random piece of electronics junk that you can ruin. I've saw friends fry Playstations and XBOXs, trying to add modchips, back in the day. The biggest issue is accidentally connecting points, and then when the power is turned on, it fries the board. So be very aware of that.

I would Ohm out the fuses first before ordering the fuse, the one that blown in my (top left of the picture) is 400mA, let us know then I may open my up to take more pictures of all the PICO fuses and values.

This is my DV-09.
Attachment 1470

Sorry, it is top right of the picture.

awesome!!

here's mine (top of the rightmost rack there,
directly above the LD player (1988 PIONEER CLD-3030)
and directly to the right of the JVC HR-S8000U VCR
that's directly underneath the TV monitor)

Attachment 1471

Sorry, I mean the fuse on the top RIGHT of your power supply picture.

Try did not slide out last night, I had to take it apart to replace the belt (actually the belt last for 10 years which is pretty good), you can see about 31 pictures I upload here:
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...oneer%20DV-09/

I hope you will not have this problem later on.
I also see that the DVD transport is not well made for $2000 DVD player, I expect to see machined metal chassis, not palstic and not brush type motor which will wear out compared to brushless motor type.
PICO fuse listing:
IC101: 750mA
IC102, IC201: 400mA
IC 301, IC302: 800mA
IC103: 500mA
IC304: 125mA
IC314, IC324: 200mA

Attachment 1472

Attachment 1473

Attachment 1474

Attachment 1475

Attachment 1476

Attachment 1477

thanks a lot!!

actually, i just recently pulled the transport mecha
to lubricate it, and i actually did not have to dismantle the chassis
quite that far in order to do it.

i only had to remove the DVD MAIN PCB and the two
metal panels that sandwich that PCB in order to gain
access to and remove the transport assy. located directly underneath.

i lubed all the gearwork with WHITE LITHIUM grease,
and the guide rails for the pick-up with a light machine oil.

this should enhance it's ability to speedily read/track a disc,
as it did with my SEGA SATURN CD-ROM video game console.

hopefully, it'll reduce read-error rates, as well.

yes, the transport is rather flimsy for a DVDP that
MSRPed at $2GRAND, but there is actually a GOOD thing about that,
and that is that ALL 1997/2002 PIONEER DVDPs actually use the
SAME central LASER PICK-UP/SPINDLE MOTOR assy.

all one need do is pull the good central laser transport assy.
from the outer disc tray assy. of any random 1997/2002
PIONEER DVDP, and drop it into outer disc tray assy.
of your DV-09. couldn't be easier...

One thing I worry the most are the spindle motor and the tray loading motor, they are made MABUSHI and they use a set of brushes that will eventually wear out and start arcing badly.
I replace a lot of thses spindle motors in the PIONEER CD/DVD players in the past. I hope I can still get them in the future.

here are some detail close-ups;

-L/R ANALOG AUDIO OUTPUT STAGE-
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1968.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1971.jpg

-PIONEER "LEGATO LINK" PROCESSOR=
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1969.jpg

-TEXAS INSTRUMENTS "BURR BROWN" PCM-1702 D/A CONVERTER-
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1991.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1992.jpg

-PSU BOARD-
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1966.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1974.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...9/DSCF1975.jpg

okay, i copied your designator markings onto the foil side of my DV-09 PSU.

should i just skip the OHMmeter testing process,
and just replace ALL the designated PICOs,
or is the testing definitely necessary?


http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/error.gif

i think i can handle it.

i've successfully soldered in new, longer, battery compartment lead wires
into my 1980's PIONEER programmable remote controls,
CU-AV100, CU-AV200, and CU-VSX006.

the points i had to solder to on these remotes' PCBs
are pretty much the same size as the solder points
of these DV-09 PICOs. plus they were HIGHLY crowded
onto a tightly packed programmable remote PCB.

so yes, i think i can handle this job without frying anything. (knock on wood)

I would Ohm out all the fuses and see if you do have the same blown fuse as mine so you will know for sure that the new fuse will bring your unit back to life.
You can see the bottom side of my board with red marking pen showing the two terminals of each fuse.
Attachment 1478

okay, i compiled a project parts list on MAUSER.

please let me know if i got the proper parts here;

http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/error.gif

It looks good, the 750mA inplace of the 800mA may be OK, I would add a 1A to the list to save shipping charge in case the 750mA may be too small, total part is less than $10. Good price from Mouser isn't it? That is why I use them for making prototype products.

Oh By the way, since there are two 400mA and one 500mA in the circuits and you order four 500mA, if you accidentally blow the fuse due to solder bridge or etc, then you will only have 1 left.
I would replace just the blown one first. Just a thought.

FYI: Pioneer is still selling parts for this DV-09.
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/...?modelNum=DV09

i intend to. i just have these in queue
in case i need them.


yeah, good price, good service.

i couldn't find an 800mA, only a 750.

what would i do if the 750 did not prove an adequate substitute
for the 800? please bear in mind that i'm only an amateur in the earliest stages.
i've never done anything like this before, so the only thing that i'm positively certain
that i can do without shadow of doubt is the part replacement.

i'm getting the hang of some of this part value coding and all, but i'm still the most basic of amateurs...

It may be OK if the surge current does not go over 900mA (about 25% above holding current of 750mA) when the unit is first powered up, otherwise you will have to use 1A instead.

okay. i have the 500mA coming first. they should be in my hands in less than a week.
they will be for the single 400mA that you say is likely the culprit, IC 201, 491.400, correct?

if that proves unsuccessful, than i'll order up that MOUSER project
that i put together, with it's 750mA replaced with 1A.

in the next week or two i'm hoping be able to get up to TRI-CITIES, WA.
for that OHMmeter, probably just in time for that project kit,
should it prove necessary to order up...


EDIT; this is what i found, looking for a 1A PICO.

i'm quite certain that it is WAY OFF from what i'm actually looking for,
and HIDEOUSLY EXPENSIVE, to boot;

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...JdbJGtltGVo%3d

That is an error on MOUSER web site, it should be the same base part number as other fuses (576-0251xxxxxx.MXL)
This is the one for 1A (38 cents) 576-0251001.MXL
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...nfrQNvQWCSQ%3d

beautiful. got 'em in the list, in lieu of the 750mA. thanks.

here's how it now stands;

http://www.digitalfaq.com/forum/error.gif


i'm probably gonna go up to TRI-CITIES, WA. tomorrow (5-14-11)
and i'll be picking that meter up then.

i'll test out IC 201, 491.400 as soon as i read the meter's instructions and know how to use it right (probably that evening)
and if it doesn't prove to be the fault, i'll order up that project straight away...

sure enough, i was able to make it to HFT yesterday,
and i not only picked up that $4.99 DMM,
but their $20.00 deluxe version as well, for possible future use;

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...Ms-5-14-11.jpg

anyway, i got back home in time to read the instructions that night, and attempt some readings as well.

sure enough!! all of the designated PICOs gave a reading, EXCEPT our suspected culprit, IC 201, 491.400.
i am to assume that that means that when those two 500mA PICOs from MAUSER arrive,
probably tomorrow or the day after, that installing one in IC 201, 491.400 will cure my DV-09's ills, correct?