Sony camcorder diagnosis after head cleaning?

[Boom_110]

Hello,

I purchased a few months ago a Sony camcorder TRV66E PAL (Video8 and Hi8 compatible) which I used to digitize a few Video8 tapes of mine with no particular issues (apart from some varying number of frames dropped, which I only mention here in case it could relates to the issue exposed here, although I first assumed that it was related to my computer set-up / Bt848 capture card).

This camcorder was sold to me with 1 HI8 tape (which was not empty but with meaningless content).
A few weeks ago, I wanted to use the camcorder to record a scene and used that HI8 tape. After about 20mn of recording, a warning popped up at the screen of the camcorder about dirty heads. I was still able to record a bit more despite the warning, and at some point it was not possible anymore: the screen was dark (I mean the picture, since the menu kept displaying correctly - i.e. not a screen issue), both in record or playing modes. Forward/rewind showing nothing special.

I found a certain number of tutorials to clean heads and kind of get that the ideal solution would be using chamois swabs. But I had none with me, and they are quite pricey, so I used what seemed to be the second best solution: a thick white paper strip dipped into alcohol (90%). I pressed the paper against the drum (too strong?) while turning it (and repeated the operation several times changing the paper strip each time), and then tried to clean at best the other parts that would be touching the tape.

After reassembly, I still have no picture when playing a tape (both the HI8 one and a previously successfully digitized Video8 one). However when using forward/rewinding, the picture appears on the screen - even though at fast speed. It looks like an improvement but it is not enough... Does this still suggest dirty heads? Should I clean them again with a different method ?

Thank you for reading.

Edit: Oops, I guess I should have rather posted this in "Videography: Cameras, TVs and Players"' category. Could some admin move it?

[dpalomaki]

I have not use that camcorder model so this is speculation. The camcorder may have a video "squelch" sort of circuit that blanks the screen when the picture is too far gone. (If so it might be mentioned in the manual.) That circuit might not operate in FWD/REW modes allowing the image you see. It also could be that one head is too clogged to read the tape causing this.

A microscopic examination of the heads might reveal some schmutz in the head gap if you can do that.

A through professional-quality cleaning might help; i.e., no improvised methods or materials. No picture is also a symptom of worn-out heads, a bit unusual for a consumer camcorder in typical home use but that depends on the previous owner(s) applications.

(In the dim distant past (1990s) there was an issue with the lubricants used by Sony and by the other tape makers not playing well together causing head clogs that required factory-level service when tape brands were mixed. This was resolved (Sony changed their formula) but some old tapes might possibly induce it.)

[Boom_110]

Thanks for your comments and sorry for my late reply - I had to pause solving this and just start to take care of it again.

The thing is that the picture looks really good in FWD/REW modes (apart from the fact it is running too fast...), really not like it is too far gone. If a head is clogged or the picture is too far gone, I wonder how could it be that the image is so neat in FWD/REW modes...

As described in my first post, I had already tried to clean the heads - probably not the ideal way, but not the worst either - before posting my issue here. I didn't try microscope. I may be able to borrow one, but not sure where exactly to look ?

Also I come again across that video (showing a very similar if not same model as mine with a similar issue for which he simply clean flat ribbon cables with "contact cleaner" and it seems to make it work again). I kind of remember I had cleaned those contacts with alcohol 90% - not sure if it is different from "contact cleaner", but I will try it again.

[dpalomaki]

Contact cleaner is not the same as alcohol but often includes an alcohol in the formulation. I've used DeoxIT D5 and CRC QD Electronic Cleaner on contacts in the past.

[timtape]

I think owners manuals only recommended using approved cleaning tapes. The tiny video heads are very vulnerable to damage from wrong manual cleaning techniques. To make it harder, access to cleaning the heads manually is usually poor. I'm a tech and have always struggled with manual cleaning of small camcorder heads.

[Boom_110]

So I eventually found contact cleaner - the one branded 3-in-1 (owned by WD-40) whose composition looks quite similar to the WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. In the product description, they say it is good for PCBs.

I dismounted the camera again, put contact cleaner on all ribbons's edges easily enough accessible. Unfortunately I damaged a few parts:
- I tore by mistake the ribbon to the photo button (not a big deal though),
- I suspect the contact cleaner to have melted the glue at the edge of a ribbon (the one going from the lens to the motherboard) where was stuck a piece of plastic to make it more rigid and easy to plug in the connector. Now it is more difficult to plug and actually after reassembly the record mode does not work anymore (the camera appears like to turned off). I guess I can fix that by cleaning and gluing again the mentioned piece of plastic to the edge of the ribbon.

Despite these troubles, the player mode still work, however my issue is not resolved - when playing any tape, I still have a blue screen with the sound, and the picture only when FWD/REW.

[WarbirdVideos]

I use a small artist brush dipped in denatured alcohol, that is if you can get it in the tight enclosure. I do this on my Hi8 decks, but cameras are tricky.

My procedure is to wear thick closeup glasses and a head light. Put some denatured (or rubbing) alcohol into a small bottle or bottle cap. Dip the 1/8" artist brush in alcohol and slightly wipe it so it's not dripping wet, then use it carefully to get into and around the tape heads. Some of it will drain out of the head slit carrying with it any tape debris that's in there. Clean all the heads like this. Once the heads are cleaned, I use a lintless cloth, or chamois stick to clean the drum. Again, take care when doing this to not scrape the heads or drum, just gently get the dirt out. Let the deck dry for several minutes before using it.

I know some may disagree with my process, but I've cleaned heads on decks back into the '80s, and this method is the only way I could really get tiny Hi8 heads clean. I've seen debris wash out of the heads while cleaning and never had an issue with damaging the epoxy embedded heads.