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04-03-2020, 09:41 AM
Master Tape Master Tape is offline
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What are among the best scanners, one for photographs and the other for 35mm negatives? That will give excellent quality.
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  #2  
04-03-2020, 10:35 AM
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The Epson V600.
And get it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Perfect...language=en_US
Best returns policy for scanners.
Both prints and slides.

For negatives, dedicated negative scanners are better, though the best units are no longer made.
How many negatives do you have?

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  #3  
04-03-2020, 11:54 AM
Master Tape Master Tape is offline
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Thanks LS I remember the Epson being touted as the best of the rest on here a few years ago, but forgot what model. Will order from Amazon now.

I have a few hundred negatives. I could always buy the negative scanner second hand, as long as it does the job.
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  #4  
04-03-2020, 11:11 PM
keaton keaton is offline
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A few years ago, I did a lot of archival scanning of prints, 35mm negative, and some 110 film.

For prints, I used a lower tier epson scanner. It's my understanding that for prints you don't need too much, as 600 ppi is probably as high as you need to get all there is on the print.

For negatives, I went with the Pacific Image PrimeFilm XE 35 mm negative and slide scanner. I used XP (in a virtual machine) and used VueScan (had to have a later version, at least as of a few years ago, that was in the upper range of the 9 series of versions, I think. It's been a while. But by now, the versions are probably much higher for Vuescan). It is advertised with Windows 7 or later software now. I just never got anything after XP. A bit quirky to get it working. Had to use the really basic scan software/driver program that came with it to "jump start" it with an initial preview scan when first powering it up. Then switched over to VueScan for all subsequent preview/actual scanning, skipping the Silverfast software that came with it. I was very impressed with the results. XE is the manual feed version, which was fine by me. I decided on that after a very tech thorough review rated it's actual resolution at 4100 ppi, which was said to be about as high as any 35mm scanner. Many advertise high ppi, but don't actually have that much ppi. It also has the Digital ICE, which is very time saving if your negatives aren't pristine. I found the Digital ICE didn't do much softening of the image while getting rid of most scratches. It's been a long time, so I forget the right technical terms. But it was also very well rated for the amount of light it generates while scanning, so you get excellent illumination of your negative/slide. I think it's called the Dmax rating. It scored very high. Some slides can be tough to get enough light on when scanning. I was pleased in this department.

You wouldn't know it was such a great scanner if you read Amazon reviews. bhphotovideo.com has a higher user rating. But if you search more techie forums or review sites, you may hear some high praise of this one, especially for it's price point compared to some of the other high end scanners. It was slow going to scan, but for me it was well worth the wait to get as much detail as possible out of my negatives/slides. Although searching now, I see it has a Super Edition, which advertises faster scan times. So perhaps that is a moot point. Anyway, I wanted it done right the first time, so I was willing to be patient.

I also got some proper gloves for handling, and a nice brush to help remove the dust/lint before scanning.

Last edited by keaton; 04-03-2020 at 11:22 PM.
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  #5  
07-05-2022, 04:50 PM
Master Tape Master Tape is offline
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Well i got the Epson at the time and it's been great. I have just got the PrimeFilm XEs super edition, but having trouble getting it installed on Windows 10. I've installed the drivers and even purchased VueScan, but the light on it just keeps blinking blue and doesn't stop. It's supposed to stop after 3-5 minutes and go green. Heh there's always some technical hitch on something you spend alot of money on.

It blinks fast about 10 times in a sequence, stops, then repeats. Is it a power error? The plug it came with was a switching adapter were you can slide in different plug prongs depending on the country, though it only came with an American one since i had to import it. The UK slider prong i had didn't fit due to the different design. So then i remembered i had bought another switching adapter for my TBC a while back. Tried it, and it powered on, but just getting this blinking blue light.

Looking at both plugs, there's some differences which might explain the error, but want to be sure this is what is causing the problem before i have to buy another plug..

Plug that came with scanner



Plug that i had



Also would this fit the adapter?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311949749...Cclp%3A2563228


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File Type: jpg 20220705_223205.jpg (86.0 KB, 26 downloads)

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  #6  
07-11-2022, 08:55 AM
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The specs in these two photos are different

Top: 12V up to 1.5amps
Bottom: 9V up to 1.12amps

These are not compatible. Voltage must match what your machine requires, amp rating should meet or exceed what the machine requires. Also ensure the polarity is the same.

For older machines especially, you want a PSU that's tailored to your device. Otherwise you'll ruin it.

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  #7  
07-11-2022, 12:07 PM
Master Tape Master Tape is offline
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I hope i haven't ruined it. It made a noise when i first powered it on, but isn't making the same sort of noise when i subsequently powered it on. But then it isn't the right plug to fully power it.

Would this suffice?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392182401...8AAOSwlx9b~zbD
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  #8  
07-11-2022, 12:50 PM
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It doesn't give you output specs.... no way to know.

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  #9  
07-11-2022, 01:32 PM
keaton keaton is offline
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I can say that the power supply that came with the PrimeFilm XE I purchased a few years ago has the same Power Supply Output specification of 12 Volts and 1.5 Amps.

So it would seem that the newer Super model that you purchased still has the same Power Supply Output specs. So I would guess that if you bought a power supply saying it is for the PrimeFilm XE that it would also be compatible with the Super model you have.

When you get the item, if it lists any output power specs on the power supply, that would confirm for certain. The image in that listing only shows the input power supply spec.

I don't think it would help you much, but I can say that when I just plug it in and power it on with no USB cable connected, the power ring turns on solid blue, then flashes blue off/on 3 times fast. After that, it continues to flash blue off/on at a consistent slower rate than the initial flashing. I guess it is waiting for the computer to initiate a preview scan at this point. The Super model could be different, of course. I would not know.
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  #10  
07-11-2022, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
The specs in these two photos are different
These are not compatible. Voltage must match what your machine requires, amp rating should meet or exceed what the machine requires. Also ensure the polarity is the same.
Somewhat OT here, but salient in general....

Lots of devices have variable volt input, a range is allowed. With AVT-8710 TBCs, for example, both 12V and 15V were fine.

The difference may actually be in amps, which can act like a limiter. So in the case of the AVT-8710, 15V 600mA has limited the amps to match the 12V 1A-2A in aggregate. Those are all OEM adapters, too. I'd think the OEM knows what's what on their devices.

There are many comments on places like StackExchange that can better describe this in details.

For example
Quote:
It is often more efficient to use higher voltage and lower current. Wires often have an ampacity rating, which is how much current they are rated to handle. If you double the voltage and keep current the same, you can use the same wire to drive a load twice as big.
The same is true of board traces in the power board, or power section of a mainboard.

I'm competent with power, mostly AC adapters and computers. It can be a confusing subject, so I often put it into laymen terms, using plain English. Those wanting the technical jabberwocky details have to travel in those domains to get it. I think the Stack sites overall suck, but that's a decent sub.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
you want a PSU that's tailored to your device. Otherwise you'll ruin it.
While lesser V can ruin, it's usually too much V, or wrong polarity, that ruins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keaton View Post
So I would guess that if you bought a power supply saying it is for the PrimeFilm XE that it would also be compatible with the Super model you have.
Be very careful here. For example, on eBay. lots of crappy Chinese adapters are "for ___", but not at all for that item. What you need to look for is volts, amps, polarity, and brand. Don't buy cheap crap supplies, get branded units. You may need to research brands before buying, as you'll likely not be familiar with AC adapter brands. For example, good units include Honor, APD, CUI Stack, Jet, Dream, Phihong, Group West, to name few.

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  #11  
07-11-2022, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
Lots of devices have variable volt input, a range is allowed. With AVT-8710 TBCs, for example, both 12V and 15V were fine.
True.

I'm personally a stickler for OEM unless someone has properly remade a PSU for my specific machine. I've had electronics die or permanently malfunction from wrong PSUs at my job. I'd rather buy something to where I don't have to wonder if it's doing any damage to my (possibly expensive) machine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
The difference may actually be in amps, which can act like a limiter. So in the case of the AVT-8710, 15V 600mA has limited the amps to match the 12V 1A-2A in aggregate. Those are all OEM adapters, too. I'd think the OEM knows what's what on their devices.
Pretty interesting. Was this to save money somehow?

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  #12  
07-11-2022, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diopter_Doctor View Post
I'm personally a stickler for OEM
I'm not. I'm a stickler for good branded PSUs. I made a lot of mistakes when I was younger, be it using wrong PSUs, or buying Radio Shack crap as replacements. I learned the hard way not to use junk, even if it came with the unit. I teach others about PSUs because I don't want them to make the same mistakes I did -- especially since most conversations are about $K gear like TBCs.

Quote:
Pretty interesting. Was this to save money somehow?
I doubt costs, but rather availability.

When you sell new items, you require FCC/etc testing for how PSU interacts with the device. So many places will acquire hefty inventory of these relatively cheap components. Time marches on, things change, the device is still in demand and thus produced. PSUs run out. The OEM suddenly finds itself without stock, supply discontinued, requiring new R&D/testing, requiring new license fees. Fun, huh? I've seen this play out before. Sometimes even before product release! Not careful enough planning. So new PSU, new testing/fees, PITA.

That's why the "Kickstart a TBC" thread is somewhat ridiculous, nave, and unrealistic.

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  #13  
07-11-2022, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
I teach others about PSUs because I don't want them to make the same mistakes I did -- especially since most conversations are about $K gear like TBCs.
Hmmm, so other than voltage, amps, polarity, and brand name, any nuggets of wisdom?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsmurf View Post
That's why the "Kickstart a TBC" thread is somewhat ridiculous, nave, and unrealistic.
Would be nice for the community, but I'm not holding my breathe

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  #14  
07-11-2022, 04:10 PM
Master Tape Master Tape is offline
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Ok i did a search on ebay and found this BT adaptor brand new for 11.

All the stats seem to match up, nothing untoward? Only thing i notice is the Input is 200-240V as opposed to the scanner's 100-240V and the Amp input says 0.7A max, whereas the scanner is 0.6A. Would this be fine?



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  #15  
07-11-2022, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Tape View Post
Ok i did a search on ebay and found this BT adaptor brand new for 11.
All the stats seem to match up, nothing untoward? Only thing i notice is the Input is 200-240V as opposed to the scanner's 100-240V and the Amp input says 0.7A max, whereas the scanner is 0.6A. Would this be fine?
200-240 means non-NA power, essentially Europe and Asia (and Africa?). If in Europe, and I believe you are, then it's fine.

600mA vs 700mA almost the same, and over is probably fine.

I think "BT" is a rebadge here, not a brand. You see that for Dlink, Dell, etc -- but all usua'ly use good branded adapters, not junk. Not just compliance, but because they don't want their $$$ items crapped out by a $5 cheap adapter. Warranty costs exceed adapter investment.

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