Anything from nichicon, rubycon, chemicon, or Panasonic that are low ESR (or Low Impedance - seems to mean the same thing) and 105C (105 degrees celsius) rated should be fine. I'm not sure what the go-to reliable electronic parts distributors are in Europe - assume you're there since that isn't a USA model of machine. In the USA, that'd be digikey and mouser for small orders. As for what to replace them with, ideally you'd measure their diameter, height, and lead spacing and get those to match roughly closely as well. Main thing to watch on capacitors is polarity, so where the negative side goes into the board which is usually marked for negative with white silk screening. Last tip would be to use leaded solder as it flows much better than lead free.
I was able to replace the bad capacitors. Now the picture look good.
I have a european model. Trying to turn on the DNR function but i guess we do not have this setting. Maybe it is called something else. What settings should I use?
Under functions -> Setup -> Picture. I have these features:
Comb filter (OFF, I'm using S-video).
Still Mode (Automatic)
Seamless Play (ON)
Under Connection I have set Progressive to off as Im passthrough interlaced VHS media.
Under DISPLAY button -> Picture:
Playback NR (set this to On?)
AV-in NR (set this to Off?)
(if turn on progressive i get one addtional feature. I guess i can then turn on/off. and set Transfer to Auto/Film/Video).
I was able to replace the bad capacitors. Now the picture look good.
I have a european model. Trying to turn on the DNR function but i guess we do not have this setting. Maybe it is called something else. What settings should I use?
Under functions -> Setup -> Picture. I have these features:
Comb filter (OFF, I'm using S-video).
Still Mode (Automatic)
Seamless Play (ON)
Under Connection I have set Progressive to off as Im passthrough interlaced VHS media.
Under DISPLAY button -> Picture:
Playback NR (set this to On?)
AV-in NR (set this to Off?)
(if turn on progressive i get one addtional feature. I guess i can then turn on/off. and set Transfer to Auto/Film/Video).
Hi, I have the same model (PAL with same menu options) and I'm experiencing exact the same video output issue and same leaking from the two capacitors mentioned in the original thread. Now that you've fixed it, did you only replace those two, or are there others that should be swapped out to ensure a clean video output without interference?
Hi, I have the same model (PAL with same menu options) and I'm experiencing exact the same video output issue and same leaking from the two capacitors mentioned in the original thread. Now that you've fixed it, did you only replace those two, or are there others that should be swapped out to ensure a clean video output without interference?
I replaced all capacitors that I saw was leaking. I think the picture improved. Hard to say if it got perfect but better. =)
Here is the list i ordered. I do not remember if I replaced all of them, but the most important ones. Some of them I ordered extra ones.
CAP ALUM 680UF 20% 6.3V RADIAL amount: 3
CAP ALUM 68UF 20% 35V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 220UF 20% 25V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 820UF 20% 16V RADIAL TH amount: 1
CAP ALUM 680UF 20% 10V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 47UF 20% 25V RADIAL TH amount: 1
The following users thank NordicBear for this useful post:
RB_Free (03-01-2026)
I replaced all capacitors that I saw was leaking. I think the picture improved. Hard to say if it got perfect but better. =)
Here is the list i ordered. I do not remember if I replaced all of them, but the most important ones. Some of them I ordered extra ones.
CAP ALUM 680UF 20% 6.3V RADIAL amount: 3
CAP ALUM 68UF 20% 35V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 220UF 20% 25V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 820UF 20% 16V RADIAL TH amount: 1
CAP ALUM 680UF 20% 10V RADIAL TH amount: 2
CAP ALUM 47UF 20% 25V RADIAL TH amount: 1
Thanks, I noticed that almost all of these are on the power supply board, so they’ll be easy to replace later on as well. Yesterday, I took everything apart because the two HDD mount feet had melted along with the rubber on the screws. It turned into a liquid that spread all over the board, so while I was cleaning it up, I took down all the capacitor values from the mainboard too.
I’ll check the service manual to see if there are other capacitors on the TBC, AV1, and AV2 lines; I might as well grab those since shipping costs more than the capacitors themselves.
I’m going to start by replacing the two 6.3V 680uF capacitors, as those are visibly bulging and leaking. If the video output noise persists, I’ll do further replacements on the power board since it’s easy to access, before committing to a full recap of all the old capacitors.
Of course, I’m not expecting an HD image (especially since I’m capturing VHS tapes recorded from Hi8...), but the previous owner used it to record from a satellite receiver, and I’ve seen recordings from 8-9 years ago that didn't have this noise. That’s why I wondered if it was an issue only when using the TBC passthrough with a VHS signal, and if replacing them wouldn't help because it was just a "native" TBC flaw.
In the attachment, you can see the 2 visually bad capacitors and my AV1 output with AV2 IN from a VCR ( on the left with the Panasonic turned off, and on the right with the Panasonic turned on acting as a TBC).
I replaced the two 6,3V 680uF capacitors (one on the PSU and one on the motherboard—the service manual confirmed they were on the same line) and the image is now crystal clear, as you can see in the attached image and video. The worst-looking one had dropped to 260uF, while the other, which was only slightly bulging, was actually down to 110uF.
After recapping these two, it also started reading DVDs again. Before, even after fixing the mechanics, I kept getting 'No Disc' or 'Unreadable Disc' errors. Now it reads them perfectly, though the drive still makes a bit of a weird noise while spinning.
I was considering cloning the HDD in case of failure due to its age—since I wouldn't have been able to initialize a new one or install the firmware without a working optical drive—but now I feel much more safe.
I didn't change the other capacitors since they look fine visually, and even if some others might be failing, it’s more than enough for my needs as a TBC passthrough.
