|
05-11-2011, 02:49 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
Sorry, it is top right of the picture.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-11-2011)
|
|
Someday, 12:01 PM
|
|
Ads / Sponsors
|
|
Join Date: ∞
Posts: 42
Thanks: ∞
Thanked 42 Times in 42 Posts
|
|
|
|
|
05-11-2011, 06:42 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
awesome!!
here's mine (top of the rightmost rack there,
directly above the LD player (1988 PIONEER CLD-3030)
and directly to the right of the JVC HR-S8000U VCR
that's directly underneath the TV monitor)
DSC_0598.jpg
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-11-2011, 06:49 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
Sorry, I mean the fuse on the top RIGHT of your power supply picture.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 09:54 AM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
Try did not slide out last night, I had to take it apart to replace the belt (actually the belt last for 10 years which is pretty good), you can see about 31 pictures I upload here:
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...oneer%20DV-09/
I hope you will not have this problem later on.
I also see that the DVD transport is not well made for $2000 DVD player, I expect to see machined metal chassis, not palstic and not brush type motor which will wear out compared to brushless motor type.
PICO fuse listing:
IC101: 750mA
IC102, IC201: 400mA
IC 301, IC302: 800mA
IC103: 500mA
IC304: 125mA
IC314, IC324: 200mA
DSC02239.jpg
| You must be logged in to view this content; either login or register for the forum. The attached screen shots, before/after images, photos and graphics are created/posted for the benefit of site members. And you are invited to join our digital media community. |
| You must be logged in to view this content; either login or register for the forum. The attached screen shots, before/after images, photos and graphics are created/posted for the benefit of site members. And you are invited to join our digital media community. |
| You must be logged in to view this content; either login or register for the forum. The attached screen shots, before/after images, photos and graphics are created/posted for the benefit of site members. And you are invited to join our digital media community. |
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 12:43 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
|
thanks a lot!!
actually, i just recently pulled the transport mecha
to lubricate it, and i actually did not have to dismantle the chassis
quite that far in order to do it.
i only had to remove the DVD MAIN PCB and the two
metal panels that sandwich that PCB in order to gain
access to and remove the transport assy. located directly underneath.
i lubed all the gearwork with WHITE LITHIUM grease,
and the guide rails for the pick-up with a light machine oil.
this should enhance it's ability to speedily read/track a disc,
as it did with my SEGA SATURN CD-ROM video game console.
hopefully, it'll reduce read-error rates, as well.
yes, the transport is rather flimsy for a DVDP that
MSRPed at $2GRAND, but there is actually a GOOD thing about that,
and that is that ALL 1997/2002 PIONEER DVDPs actually use the
SAME central LASER PICK-UP/SPINDLE MOTOR assy.
all one need do is pull the good central laser transport assy.
from the outer disc tray assy. of any random 1997/2002
PIONEER DVDP, and drop it into outer disc tray assy.
of your DV-09. couldn't be easier...
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
Last edited by Tasuke; 05-12-2011 at 01:01 PM.
|
|
05-12-2011, 12:53 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
One thing I worry the most are the spindle motor and the tray loading motor, they are made MABUSHI and they use a set of brushes that will eventually wear out and start arcing badly.
I replace a lot of thses spindle motors in the PIONEER CD/DVD players in the past. I hope I can still get them in the future.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 01:17 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-12-2011, 02:56 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
okay, i copied your designator markings onto the foil side of my DV-09 PSU.
should i just skip the OHMmeter testing process,
and just replace ALL the designated PICOs,
or is the testing definitely necessary?
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-12-2011, 03:16 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by admin
Just be careful soldering. You may want to practice on an old computer motherboard -- or some random piece of electronics junk that you can ruin. I've saw friends fry Playstations and XBOXs, trying to add modchips, back in the day. The biggest issue is accidentally connecting points, and then when the power is turned on, it fries the board. So be very aware of that.
|
i think i can handle it.
i've successfully soldered in new, longer, battery compartment lead wires
into my 1980's PIONEER programmable remote controls,
CU-AV100, CU-AV200, and CU-VSX006.
the points i had to solder to on these remotes' PCBs
are pretty much the same size as the solder points
of these DV-09 PICOs. plus they were HIGHLY crowded
onto a tightly packed programmable remote PCB.
so yes, i think i can handle this job without frying anything. (knock on wood)
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-12-2011, 03:19 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
I would Ohm out all the fuses and see if you do have the same blown fuse as mine so you will know for sure that the new fuse will bring your unit back to life.
You can see the bottom side of my board with red marking pen showing the two terminals of each fuse.
DSC02232.jpg
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 04:52 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
okay, i compiled a project parts list on MAUSER.
please let me know if i got the proper parts here;
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-12-2011, 05:03 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
It looks good, the 750mA inplace of the 800mA may be OK, I would add a 1A to the list to save shipping charge in case the 750mA may be too small, total part is less than $10. Good price from Mouser isn't it? That is why I use them for making prototype products.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 05:15 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
Oh By the way, since there are two 400mA and one 500mA in the circuits and you order four 500mA, if you accidentally blow the fuse due to solder bridge or etc, then you will only have 1 left.
I would replace just the blown one first. Just a thought.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-12-2011)
|
|
05-12-2011, 05:27 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
|
|
05-12-2011, 08:07 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budm
I would replace just the blown one first. Just a thought.
|
i intend to. i just have these in queue
in case i need them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budm
It looks good, the 750mA inplace of the 800mA may be OK, I would add a 1A to the list to save shipping charge in case the 750mA may be too small, total part is less than $10. Good price from Mouser isn't it? That is why I use them for making prototype products.
|
yeah, good price, good service.
i couldn't find an 800mA, only a 750.
what would i do if the 750 did not prove an adequate substitute
for the 800? please bear in mind that i'm only an amateur in the earliest stages.
i've never done anything like this before, so the only thing that i'm positively certain
that i can do without shadow of doubt is the part replacement.
i'm getting the hang of some of this part value coding and all, but i'm still the most basic of amateurs...
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
|
05-12-2011, 09:58 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
|
It may be OK if the surge current does not go over 900mA (about 25% above holding current of 750mA) when the unit is first powered up, otherwise you will have to use 1A instead.
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-13-2011)
|
|
05-13-2011, 12:37 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
okay. i have the 500mA coming first. they should be in my hands in less than a week.
they will be for the single 400mA that you say is likely the culprit, IC 201, 491.400, correct?
if that proves unsuccessful, than i'll order up that MOUSER project
that i put together, with it's 750mA replaced with 1A.
in the next week or two i'm hoping be able to get up to TRI-CITIES, WA.
for that OHMmeter, probably just in time for that project kit,
should it prove necessary to order up...
EDIT; this is what i found, looking for a 1A PICO.
i'm quite certain that it is WAY OFF from what i'm actually looking for,
and HIDEOUSLY EXPENSIVE, to boot;
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...JdbJGtltGVo%3d
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
Last edited by Tasuke; 05-13-2011 at 01:01 PM.
|
|
05-13-2011, 03:16 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
|
|
That is an error on MOUSER web site, it should be the same base part number as other fuses (576-0251xxxxxx.MXL)
This is the one for 1A (38 cents) 576-0251001.MXL
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...nfrQNvQWCSQ%3d
|
The following users thank Budm for this useful post:
Tasuke (05-13-2011)
|
|
05-13-2011, 10:26 PM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
beautiful. got 'em in the list, in lieu of the 750mA. thanks.
here's how it now stands;
i'm probably gonna go up to TRI-CITIES, WA. tomorrow (5-14-11)
and i'll be picking that meter up then.
i'll test out IC 201, 491.400 as soon as i read the meter's instructions and know how to use it right (probably that evening)
and if it doesn't prove to be the fault, i'll order up that project straight away...
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
Last edited by Tasuke; 05-13-2011 at 10:38 PM.
|
|
05-15-2011, 11:54 AM
|
|
Free Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: UMATILLA OR, U.S.
Posts: 89
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
|
|
sure enough, i was able to make it to HFT yesterday,
and i not only picked up that $4.99 DMM,
but their $20.00 deluxe version as well, for possible future use;
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...Ms-5-14-11.jpg
anyway, i got back home in time to read the instructions that night, and attempt some readings as well.
sure enough!! all of the designated PICOs gave a reading, EXCEPT our suspected culprit, IC 201, 491.400.
i am to assume that that means that when those two 500mA PICOs from MAUSER arrive,
probably tomorrow or the day after, that installing one in IC 201, 491.400 will cure my DV-09's ills, correct?
Catch the Spirit of a True ΩPIONEER
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:34 AM
|
