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  #1  
03-08-2024, 06:03 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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So i have identified a problem (slipping shaft of the long "transmission", in my own words ), i'll sand and glue that sucker but one problem remain: can't figure out how to remove that loading motor to take it out.
The plastic retainer clips are very solid, no obvious "pinch system" or anything when i look/touch them.


First time i see this configuration for my defense


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  #2  
03-08-2024, 06:44 AM
enois enois is offline
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Remove loading motor. Remove capstan motor, may be to remove all 3 screws you must remove also pinch roller, then "push" out, very gently, 4 plastic pins that lock loading motor plastic holder , push them from bottom to top side of the deck (2 of them circled in you picture, the other 2 hidden by motor capstan).
After glue one of the bevel pair, deck operation will be more noisy due to not precise alignment, but will work fine.

Are available a 3D print of gear.
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  #3  
03-08-2024, 07:55 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Thanks for the infos. capstan removed & pinch roller out of sight now. I'm pushing them 4 pins down, can't feel any slack for now, harder than one might think.

Edit: oops success, took some brute force in the end for these 4 suckers


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  #4  
03-10-2024, 08:44 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Some update:
(note: the mech part now work fine play,rewind,ff etc.., tape tension seems fine aswell)
After some cleaning (the heads, the board), some ribbons cables swapped, audio/control head swapped, i'm still in the snow, literally

Kinda strange beast (to me) to say the least: no mode switch to begin with, a tower gears inside of which the pinch roller goes down etc..

At first, when playing a tape, i would get a picture, somewhat poor in normal playback and good pictures in fast forward playback sound was kinda ok. Now i get sound only and only after some strange procedure (must be ext. source1 (E1). All screws for grounding were put back

External source work just fine (picture & sound).

I doubt it's the drum's heads that are dirty really (they look fine on the outside, naked eye), something else i just don't know what. Some short on the drum's board ? That's where my competences fall short sadly
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  #5  
03-10-2024, 09:24 AM
enois enois is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaster1 View Post
some ribbons cables swapped, audio/control head swapped
Which cable were swapped? And how audio/control head were swapped?
It's not clear to me what do you mean, ribbon cable are not swappable each other, different numbers of pin and different length, usable only for designate connection.

Have you removed head cleaner roller? Over the year it revert it's function and every loading of a cassette it dirty the head, especially if is a rubber one (older cleaning roller were made of felt).
If is still there, remove and clean again the head.

Philips Turbo Drive peculiarity have no mode switch, loading position is calculated by number of turn of shutter on the edge of worm gear.
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  #6  
03-10-2024, 10:54 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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I got a spare deck, with a non functional upper drum, that's how i swapped cables/ ac head. Next step i guess i'll try to use the other lower drum.

Note : head cleaner gone indeed ( was already)
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  #7  
03-10-2024, 06:35 PM
enois enois is offline
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If you swapped A/C head, have adjusted head height, tilt & azimut?
If control head not read correctly tracking, is normal in play mode not see image (or poor image with a lot of snow), and could be normal see image in FFW or REW in this case.
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  #8  
03-10-2024, 06:38 PM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Didn't need to adjust, it's just 1 screw at the base and you can remove the whole thing
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  #9  
03-11-2024, 10:15 AM
hodgey hodgey is offline
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Idk if it helps but when tinkering with one of these I noticed it was important that the grounding screw at the back of the mechanism was secured well or the video signal didn't work well. Also is it actually possible to remove the upper drum from the lower drum without the special tool mentioned in the service manual?

Quote:
Originally Posted by enois View Post
Remove loading motor. Remove capstan motor, may be to remove all 3 screws you must remove also pinch roller, then "push" out, very gently, 4 plastic pins that lock loading motor plastic holder , push them from bottom to top side of the deck (2 of them circled in you picture, the other 2 hidden by motor capstan).
After glue one of the bevel pair, deck operation will be more noisy due to not precise alignment, but will work fine.

Are available a 3D print of gear.
Have you tried using these replacements or have you got a procedure that works reliably for gluing/repairing split ones? The new old stock replacements are a bit too pricy (if you can even find them anymore..) to be worth it in most cases and my first attempt at gluing one of these on with epoxy didn't work. These vcrs are pretty nice otherwise so it would be nice to have a reliable way to fix them other than hunting down the few NOS philips/grundig repair kits left.
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  #10  
03-11-2024, 01:06 PM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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I just glued mine, super glue, and the end of the metal rod sanded slightly.
I haven't seen a crack on mine , just slipping inside. Epoxy glue is better though
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  #11  
03-12-2024, 08:35 AM
enois enois is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgey View Post
Idk if it helps but when tinkering with one of these I noticed it was important that the grounding screw at the back of the mechanism was secured well or the video signal didn't work well. Also is it actually possible to remove the upper drum from the lower drum without the special tool mentioned in the service manual?
I forgot. Later TurboDrive deck have integrated in the drum set the electrostatic discharger, so is fundamental put screw on the thin metal shield aside head ribbon cable, without that screw (or a connection between metal shield/ground and metal part of deck) discharger don't work so image is almost entirely snow. I forgot that screw more that once!

May be possible remove drum head disc without dedicated extractor, but I think is not easy reassemble whole drum set without it and even more reassemble with correct alignment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgey View Post
Have you tried using these replacements or have you got a procedure that works reliably for gluing/repairing split ones? The new old stock replacements are a bit too pricy (if you can even find them anymore..) to be worth it in most cases and my first attempt at gluing one of these on with epoxy didn't work. These vcrs are pretty nice otherwise so it would be nice to have a reliable way to fix them other than hunting down the few NOS philips/grundig repair kits left.
I personally not tried 3D bevel gear, a colleague do and told me that seem works fine, he only need lightly increase depth of the hole in 3D gear.
Usually I do like themaster1, but before glue the gear on the shaft, I very lightly enlarge the hole in the slipping/cracked gear just to try to reduce mechanical noise due to non (original) perfect alignment of the gears. To be sure I also put some grease on the gears.
When slipping/cracked happens on the worm gear is important adjust correct bearing with the bevel gear on the shaft before glue it.
A good cyanoacrylate glue likely will work, I also tried with bostik or hot gun glue but not convinced me much.
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  #12  
03-13-2024, 08:45 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Well i haven't progressed much, still that snow in playback (decent in ff play) , i've tweaked the guides, the ac head, ground screws everywhere. I'm the snow up to my shoulders.
Heads look fine to me, has to be something else.


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  #13  
03-16-2024, 12:56 PM
enois enois is offline
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Usually when see the image in FFW but not (or bad) in playback my first thought is that a head is dirt or broke, thus, from a distance it is difficult to make a more precise diagnosis.
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  #14  
03-30-2024, 03:39 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Some progress, i've found some tiny debris inside the coils removed them but more importantly the upper drum was dragging on the lower drum a little so i just put another thicker washer (too thick actually)
So i'm seeing light again, but obviously since it's too thick ...tracking issues even after AC adjust. To be continued.

That philips system on the locking / drum height adjust... far from great i can tell you that much.
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  #15  
03-30-2024, 08:32 AM
enois enois is offline
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For correct drum head operation is needed the specific tool for removing the head disc as showed in any Philips Turbo Drive service manual, with it is possible disassembling and reassembling drum set with all correct alignment.
I'm not surprise that you encounter some trouble without the tool...
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  #16  
03-30-2024, 11:52 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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I ain't gonna buy no $ 100 tool for a 10 bucks vcr, i hope you get that. I'll find me the right 50 cent washer somewhere.
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  #17  
03-31-2024, 04:11 AM
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lordsmurf lordsmurf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaster1 View Post
I ain't gonna buy no $ 100 tool for a 10 bucks vcr, i hope you get that. I'll find me the right 50 cent washer somewhere.
Yep.

I'd only do that if the VCR was worth far more than $100 for the parts alone. And that's not this.

- Did my advice help you? Then become a Premium Member and support this site.
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  #18  
04-01-2024, 07:01 AM
themaster1 themaster1 is offline
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Well it seems i'm about there. Hi-Fi Sound is clear, pictures look decent and stable but the tracking is slow as hell, could be better. I have an intermittent grid pattern / moiré coming on and off i'm not sure if it's the cable or a slight misadjustment of the ac head.

The collar is back where it belongs (light brute force was required), and washer on the lower part indeed. Washer thickness is ~1.2mm for the one interested. To be noted there is none from factory; you don't put one you're exposed to heads smashing and "drum-dragging". I did put some silicone grease on the washer yesterday only to find out today it was all dry and gone. Found some other high temp grease, hopefully it stays like that.

In any case, no "special tool" needed


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