Eject malfunctioning in JVC HR-S9600?

[BarryTheCrab]

Are we still talking about VCRs?

[npbrown82]

Hello from the interwebs! I know this is an old post, but I know the fix to this and want to post this as I'm certain others will be looking for answers in the future. If you are having the problem Tokyo_DIY shows in the video attached his last post above, it's a bad "end sensor", bad "start sensor", or both. What that video shows is the tape transport motor doesn't know when to stop. It will keep ejecting the tape, then pull it back in. You'll hear the sound of the tape transport motor spinning. So frustrating! This is due to the "end sensor" which is referenced in the service manual as "Q3002". You can find "service manuals" for these JVC VCRs for free posted all over online. I replaced both the "end sensor" and "start senor" though just for good measure (Q3002 and Q3002) and I wasn't sure which was faulty haha (but I think it's the end sensor - Q3002). Once replace, I was back in business!

Here are the part numbers for the 9800, they are likely similiar or identical to many other JVC VCRs made between 1997-2003ish:

Q3002: PTZ-NV16 PHOTO TRANSISTOR or PTZ-NV16A PHOTO TRANSISTOR
Q3003: PTZ-NV16 PHOTO TRANSISTOR or PTZ-NV16A PHOTO TRANSISTOR

Now what if you cannot find these replacement parts anywhere??? Or at least for cheap??? I have you covered. Buy a "for parts" JVC deck on ebay like the HR-S7600U or one of the bit more modern JVC MiniDV / SVHS (for parts) and you are likely to find donor parts for a purchase price of $150 or less. Especially the S7600 which I've seen go for $80. My donors came from a JVC/MiniDV-SVHS deck I bought for $75 (It was a dump, but had these working parts), and I was off to the races. (plus you will have a lot of other spare parts on these you can use to fix future issues!)

Happy fixing!

PS Regarding the parts numbers above, I am specifically referring to JVC 9600, 9800 and 9900s, but MANY other JVC models will do this with bad start or end sensors.

[Tokyo_DIY]

Quote:

Originally Posted by npbrown82

Hello from the interwebs! I know this is an old post, but I know the fix to this and want to post this as I'm certain others will be looking for answers in the future. If you are having the problem Tokyo_DIY shows in the video attached his last post above, it's a bad "end sensor", bad "start sensor", or both.

Many thanks, very nice post.
It is too late for my case, but I am sure other members will face the same issue.

[hongan]

Hello. After many years, I want to answer you accurately. Sorry, I am a foreigner and my English is not good.
As npbrown82 said. The start sensor and end sensor are malfunctioning. If there is an issue with the start sensor, the videotape will not be able to be loaded. If there is a problem with the end sensor, after the videotape exits, the motor will continue to operate until the power is automatically cut off. Your end sensor is malfunctioning.
But you don't need to replace the parts. Because the most likely cause of the malfunction is solder joint detachment.You just need to reweld the solder joints.
Npbrown82 has purchased new parts. But he also rewelded the solder joints.
I encountered the same situation as you. I rewelded the solder joints, and the machine became normal.
By the way, my machine is the Japanese version of the hr-vxg200. Its European model is s9600.

[Tokyo_DIY]

Hi @hongan,
many thanks for letting me know.
If I face the same issue with another machine I'll try re-soldering the joints.

[sunjan]

Late reply tot his thread, but I also have eject issues with my 9700.
I found the sensors mentioned in the service manual here:
https://archive.org/details/hfe_jvc_...de/2up?q=q3003

But it would be great if anyone has photos of the sensors and the solder joints, to make it easier to identify. Did anyone else try this fix?

[npbrown82]

Great to see this thread still active. Just wanted to chime in since I’m actually in the middle of a rebuild with this exact issue.

Cold or cracked solder joints on the start/end sensors are definitely common—and worth checking first using a voltmeter for continuity. That alone has fixed plenty of machines I’ve worked on. But it’s not always the case. On this current unit, the joints are solid—no lift, no cracks—and it’s looking like a failed sensor itself (possibly both start and end, which are two individual sensors).

The good news: JVC used the same sensors across a wide range of models. You can grab a cheap donor deck—like a 3600 or DVS3—and transplant them. I’ve done that many times. But I always recommend starting with continuity testing first.

This kind of behavior often result in a “ghost loading” issue—I’ll post a photo soon showing the exact board and sensor location. If I forget, just ping me and I’ll make sure to upload it. Once you flip the board, it’s usually pretty easy to find.

Hope this helps!

- Nate /natob82

[npbrown82]

Hey, the first thing I always check with ghost loading issues is the soldering—look for cold joints or bad traces on the start and end sensors. I’ve got some pictures I can share that might help. That said, the issue I just dealt with wasn’t the sensors. It turned out to be what’s often called the LE diode—in some models it’s labeled D3001. I’ve got a photo of that too. It’s rare for that diode to be the cause, but it can play into ghost loading behavior. Usually, it’s the start or end sensors, but all of these are worth checking if you’re chasing that problem.